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UCSD  Lib. 


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THE 


A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  THE 

MANUFACTURE  OF  WOOLENS, 


Part   First   gives  full   and   Explicit  Instructions  upon  Drafting, 

Cross  Drawing,  Combining  Weaves,  and  the  correct  arrange- 

ment of  Weights,  Colors,  and  sizes  of  Yarns  to  produce 

any  desired  fabric, 

ILLUSTRATED   WITH  DIAGRAMS  OF  VARIOUS  WEAVINGS,  AND  TWELVE 
SAMPLES  OF  CLOTH  FOR  EXPLANATION  AND  PRACTICE. 

Part   Second    is   fully  supplied   with    Extended  Tables,  Rules, 
Examples,  Explanations,  &c. 

GIVES    FULL,    AND    PRACTICAL     INFORMATION    IN    DETAILED    ORDER,   FROM 

THE    STOCK     DEPARTMENT    TO    THE    MARKET,    OF   THE  PROPER  SELEC- 

TION AND    USE   OF   THE   VARIOUS    GRADES  AND    STAPLES   OF   WOOL, 

WITH   THE   ADMIXTURE   OF    WASTE,  COTTON  AND   SHODDY;   AJfD 

THE    PROPER    APPLICATION   AND  ECONOMICAL   USE   OF 

THE  VARIOUS  OILS,    DRUGS,    DTE   STUFFS, 

SOAPS,  BELTING,   &C. 

Also,  the  most  approved   method   for   Calculating   and   Estimating  the 

Cost  of  Goods,  for  All  Wool,  Wool  Waste  and  Cotton  and 

Cotton  Warps. 

WITH 

Examples  and  Calculations  on  the  Circular  Motions  of  Wheels,  Pinions, 
Drums,  Pulleys  and  Geers,  How  to  Speed  them,  &c. 

THE   TWO   PARTS  COMBINED  FORM  A  WHOLE   WORK  ON   THE  AMERICAN 

WAY  OF  MANUFACTURING   MORE   COMPLETE   THAN  ANY 

YET   ISSUED. 


BY  GEORGE  C.  BURNS. 


CENTRAL  FALLS,  R.  I.: 
E.  L.  FKEEMAN,  STEAM  BOOK,  JOB  AND  LITHOGRAPHIC  PRINTER. 

1872. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1872,  by 

GEORGE  C.  BURNS, 
In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  Washington,  D.  C. 


PREFACE. 


advancement  in  the  art  of  manufacturing,  as  well  as 
in  any  of  the  other  arts,  depends  in  a  great  measure  if 
not  entirely  on  our  faculties,  and  the  helps  and  opportu- 
nities afforded  us.  That  much  of  the  required  assistance  and 
information  may  be  obtained  from  good  books  all  must  admit. 
It  was  not  the  design  of  the  author  to  introduce  novelties,  but  to 
form  a  practical  digest  of  rules  and  facts,  and  to  explain  them 
clearly  and  accurately.  And  though  he  has  taken  the  liberty  to 
think  and  write  for  himself,  he  trusts  that  few  have  excelled 
him  in  diligence  of  research,  and  in  the  plain  and  concise  manner 
in  which  he  has  defined  and  exemplified  the  work  under  consid- 
eration. 

It  is  the  learner's  diction  that  is  to  be  improved,  and  this  book 
will  be  found  well  calculated  to  effect  that  object,  and  perhaps 
there  are  few,  however  learned,  who,  on  a  perusal  of  this  work, 
will  not  be  furnished  with  many  important  rules  and  facts,  which 
had  not  occurred  to  their  own  observation.  Practice  is  considered 
a  better  pilot  than  theory,  but  there  is  always  a  theory  connected 
with  practice ;  and  by  a  happy  combination  of  theory  and  practice, 
the  most  perfect  results  are  obtained.  Ambitious  of  making  not  a 
large,  but  an  acceptable  book,  he  has  compressed  into  this  work 
the  most  essential  parts  of  a  mass  of  material,  from  which  he  could 
as  easily  have  formed  a  folio.  Ten  years  of  careful  observation 
and  experience  under  favorable  opportunities,  has  enabled  him,  to 
obtain  a  clear  knowledge  of  the  most  important  connections  of 
the  business.  How  far  he  has  succeeded  in  the  execution  of  his 
design,  is  willingly  left  to  the  just  decision  of  those  qualified  to 
judge. 

GEOEGE.  C.  BURNS. 


PART   FIRST 


The  above  sample  of  cloth  represents  a  Doeskin  weave  (fof  the 
ground),  combined  with  a  herringbone  stripe.  The  doeskin  is 
made  with  5  harness,  10  bolts;  the  herringbone  is  made  with  5 
harness,  10  bolts,  but  is  CROSS  DEAWJST  from  20  harness.  Each  of 
the  two  weaves  of  the  combination  are  made  wjth  separate  har- 
ness and  chain  motions. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 


N"n    1         5th  Harness  **     ***•     **  1st  warp  thread  drafted. 
.  1MU.  1.       4(h        ..         +  4.+  +     ****      ->d      ...... 


*'    *******  M 
***    >***«>  4th     - 

n$***::*  ***  sth  " 


f, 
ill 

TH      1O      JO 


- 
FRONT . 


DIAG.  1.     Represents  the  design  fr9m  which  to  build  the  chain, 
to  weave  the  doeskin  (or  ground  work)  of  sample  of  cloth. 


DIAG.  No.  2. 


CD 


4th  S< 


,     /  * 


"DfflSBBffiDDSD 


1st  warp  thread  drafted. 

2d 

3d 

4th 


3d  Set 


* 


2d  Set. 


5th 
(ith 
7th 
Sth 
9th 

•»•    •*•    -v   •*•   T-  1 ' !  1 1 1 

****    **   nil, 

>*    ****       i-Jti, 

****«oa;  mh 

i  14th 

*          *    15th 

I6th 

17th 

1Sth 

,*****  *  lath 
•  ••*  *  *  --'mli 
**  *  ***  -'1st 

::  *  :    *****  w.i 

FRONT. 


DIAG.  2.  Represents  the  design  from  which  to  build  the  chain 
to  weave  the  herringbone,  and  the  two  threads  of  orange  and 
black  twist  which  pass  through  its  center,  before  it  is  cross  drawn, 
showing  that  it  would  require  20  harness,  10  bolts  for  the  her- 
ringbone, and  2  harness  for  the  orange  and  black  twist 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


DiAG.No.3.  n  "SffStf 


FRONT. 

DIAG.  3.  Represents  the  design  from  which  to  build  the  chain 
to  weave  the  herringbone,  and  is  the  same  design  the  chain  was 
built  from  to  weave  it  in  the  sample  of  cloth.  And  also  repre- 
sents Diag.  No.  2.  as  it  appears  after  it  has  been  cross  drawn  and 
reduced  to  5  harness,  10  bolts. 

DIAGRAMS. 

All  the  diagrams  in  this  book  represent  the  harness,  and  the 
designs  from  which  to  build,  and  arrange  the  chain,  to  operate 
the  harness,  for  the  Crompton,  or  any  other  loom  operated  by  a 
chain  motion. 

THE    HARNESS    CHAIN. 

The  component  parts  of  the  harness  chain  are  divided  and 
known  as  Cylinder,  Bolts  or  Bars,  Rollers,  Tubes  and  Links. 
The  cylinder  is  that  part  which  is  attached  to  the  loom,  and 
which  revolves  the  chain ;  it  also  has  the  check  wheel  attached 
to  it  for  reversing  the  chain,  &c.  The  bolts  or  bars  carry  the  roll- 
ers and  tubes.  The  rollers  are  usually  employed  to  elevate  the 
harness,  and  the  tubes  for  depressing  them,  and  keeping  the  roll- 
ers in  place,  and  the  bolts  arranged  and  connected  with  the  links 
at  each  end  form  the  chain.  Some  of  the  Crompton  improved 
looms  have  the  peg  chain  attachments,  and  for  those  chains  the 
pegs  answer  for  rollers  and  the  holes  for  tubes.  And  Mr.  Cromp- 
ton has  an  improved  loom  operated  by  a  chain,  and  for  which  the 
rollers  depress  the  harness,  and  the  tubes  elevate  them.  The 
dark  squares  in  the  diagrams  are  to  represent  the  rollers  (or  the 
elevation  of  the  harness),  and  the  blank  squares  the  tubes  (or  the 
depression  of  the  harness.)  Designers  usually  read  dark  squares 
as  risers,  and  the  blank  squares  as  sinkers,  when  calling  off  their 
designs.  And  to  build  a  chain  for  the  Crompton  improved  last 
mentioned,  or  for  the  Greenhalgh  loom,  then  read  and  make  the 
designs  the  reverse  of  those  in  this  book,  reading  rollers  as  sink- 
ers, and  tubes  as  risers. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER, 


HOW  TO  DRAFT  THE  PATTERNS  FROM  A  SAMPLE 
OF  CLOTH. 

XOTE. — The  following  instructions  upon  drafting  and  design- 
ing, are  intended  for  those  persons  who  have  had  a  limited  know- 
edge  of  the  motions  and  changes  of  a  loom,  as  well  as  those  who 
have  had  some  practice  in  weaving.  But  all  who  intend  to  learn 
the  art  thoroughly,  should  acquire  some  practical  knowledge  of 
weaving,  so  as  to  fully  understand  the  changes  of  the  harness  as 
produced  by  the  harness  chain,  and  also  the  filling  changes  which 
take  place  in  connection  with  the  warp  to  form  the  patterns;  the 
instructions  given  are  clear  and  explicit,  and  should  be  read  care- 
fully, and  understood  thoroughly,  and  with  the  aid  of  the  samples 
of  cloth  which  are  to  be  used  for  practice,  and  with  the  diagrams 
of  weaves  hereafter  explained,  it  would  seem  that  any  person  of 
ordinary  intelligence,  ought  to  learn  the  theory  of  the  art,  and 
apply  the  theory  to  practice  without  any  difficulty. 

For  writing  down  the  draftings,  you  will  require  a  few  squares 
of  design  paper  or  have  a  slate  marked  off  in  small  squares  sim- 
ilar to  those  in  diagrams.  And  for  picking  up  and  separating 
the  threads  in  the  cloth,  a  coarse  needle  with  a  small  handle 
attached,  is  the  best  instrument  for  the  purpose.  ^You  then  take 
the  sample  of  cloth  you  intend  to  draft  the  pattern  from,  hold  the 
face  toward  you,  with  warp  and  filling  reversed,  that  is,  have  the 
warp  to  run  from  right  to  left,  which  will  cause  the  filling  to  rim 
up  and  down  (see  directions  on  the  side  of  first  sample  of  cloth.) 
Hold  the  cloth  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  left  hand, 
Tavel  and  pull  out  some  ten  or  more  threads  of  the  warp,  or  enough 
to  allow  the  ends  of  the  filling  threads  to  appear  about  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  above  th'e  remaining  warp  threads,  so  that  they 
will  be  free  from  each  other,  and  can  be  easily  separated ;  ravel 
and  pull  out  some  of  the  filling  threads  from  the  right  hand  end, 
which  gives  you  a  good  chance  to  get  hold  of  the  remaining  warp 
threads,  so  that  they  may  be  pulled  up  and  loosened  one  at  a  time, 
and  easily  traced  as  they  pass  over  or  under  the  filling  threads. 
Each  one  of  the  remaining  warp  threads  used  in  drafting  will  deter- 
mine one  harness  motion,  showing  the  several  changes  of  the  har- 
ness upon  which  that  thread  was  drawn  in  the  pattern.  And 
each  filling  thread  as  it  passes  over  and  under  that  warp  thread, 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


directs  you  how  to  bnild  the  chain  for  that  one  harness;  whether 
you  arc  to  put  on  the  bolts,  a  roller,  or  a  tube,  so  that  you  will 
observe  that  each  filling  thread  as  it  passes  over  and  under  each 
warp  thread,  denotes  either  a  roller  or  a,  tube  on  the  chain  bolts, 
consequently  it  is  very  essential  that  you  should  be  caivful  and 
take  and  use  each  warp  and  filling  thread  in  rotation,  as  they 
appear  in  the  pattern  from  Avhich  you  are  drafting.  I  will  suppose 
an  example,  and  Diagram  No.  4.  will  explain  the  example,  and 
show  the  manner  of  writing  the  risers  and  sinkers  as  mentioned. 
After  all  is  ready,  proceed  as  follows:  Loosen  the  first  remain- 
ing warp  thread  a  little,  not  enough  to  clear  it  from  the  ends  of 
the  filling  threads,  but  enough  for  the  eye  to  detect  which  of  the 
filling  threads  pass  over  and  under  it.  Observe  the  first  filling 
thread  at  the  right  hand;  does  it  pass  over  or  under  the' warp 
thread?  Suppose  it  to  pass  under  the  warp  thread,  then  we  will 
mark  down  one  riser,  (and  in  marking  down  risers  and  sinkers, 
commence  at  the  right  hand  and  pass  to  the  left,  same  as  when 
drafting  from  the  cloth),  as  that  denotes  the  warp  thread  was  up, 
when  the  filling  thread  passed  it,  or  it  would  not  be  found  under 
thejvarp  thread,"aud  indicates  that  we  want  a  roller  on  that  chain 
boll,  and  we  will  make  a  little  mark  in  that  square  to  indicate  a 
roller.  To  dispose  of  this  filling  thread  which  we  have  used,  and 
which  passed  under  the  warp,  turn  the  thread  over  back  and 
press  it  between  the  cloth  and  forefinger,  and  retain  it  there  till 
you  have  used  the  Avarp  thread  which  alloAVS  the  next  or  2d  fill- 
ing thread  all  clear  to  observe.  And  AVC  Avill  suppose  the"' 3d  fill- 
ing thread  to  pass  over  the  same  warp  thread,  then  we  will  call 
that  a  sinker,  as  the  Avarp  thread  in  this  change  was  depressed  to 
alloAv  the  filling  thread  to  pass  over  it,  and  indicates  a  tube  on 
the  second  bolt,  and  Ave  Avill  leave  the  2d  square  on  the  same 
line  and  directly  to  the  left  of  the  riser  a  blank,  which  indicates 
a  tube.  To  dispose  of  this  filling  thread  which  we  have  used,  and 
which  passed  over  the  warp,  turn  the  end  over  front  and  press  it 
between  the  cloth  and  thumb  and  retain  it  same  as  first  filling 
thread,  Avhich  alloAVS  the  next  or  third  filling  thread  all  clear  to 
observe. 

Suppose  the  3d  filling  thread  to  pass  under  the  same  Avarp 
thread,  then  mark  another  riser  same  as  for  the  first,  and  in 
the  next  square  directly  to  the  left  of  the  2d,  indicating  a  roller, 


10  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

and  put  the  thread  over  back  same  as  first.  Suppose  the  next  or 
4th  filling  thread  to  pass  over  the-  warp  same  as  the  3d,  we  will 
call  this  another  sinker,  indicating  a  tube  on  the  4th  bolt.  Sup- 
pose our  next  three  filling  threads  5,  6  and  7,  to  pass  under  the 
warp  thread  successively,  we  will  then  write  down  three  risers  suc- 
cessively, indicating  a  roller  upon  each  of  the  three  bolts  5,  6 
and  7  respectively.  Suppose  our  next  three  filling  threads  8,  9 
and  10,  to  each  pass  over  that  warp  thread  successively,  we  will 
then  write  three  sinkers  successively;  we  have  now  one  harness 
motion,  (and  which  we  will  suppose  to  be  one  pattern  for  one  har- 
ness) which  will  have  10  changes;  one  change"  for  each  filling 
thread  (or  bolt),  thus  showing  the  changes  of  one  warp  thread 
for  the  10  filling  threads  we  have  used. 

DIAGRAM  No.  4  represents  the  order  in  which  the  filling  threads 
appear  as  per  the  example  just  given,  and  the  method  for  writing 
the  draftings  as  they  are  taken  from  a  piece  of  cloth  when  draft- 
ing. Commence  at  the  right  hand  where  we  commenced  mark- 
ing down,  and  read  to  the  left  as  follows:  1  riser,  1  sinker;  1 
riser,  1  sinker;  3  risers,  3  sinkers,  and  represents  the  motion  of 
one  harness  which  carried  the  warp  thread  we  have  used  in  the 
example  as  follows  :  (turn  the  book  sideways,  the  top  towards  the 
right  hand),  once  up,  once  clown  ;  once  up,  once  down  ;  three 
times  up,  three  times  down  ;  and  if  we  had  only  one  harness  ope- 
rating, and  a  chain  was  built  from  Diag.  No.  4,  it  would  work 
the  harness  in  that  order. 

DTAP   No   4      sa>*t-*'e'*e9*~ 

Warp  Thread. 


Supposing  we  had  drafted  far  enough  to  be  sure  we  had  all 
the  chain  bolts  required,  we  would  then  pull  out  the  warp  thread 
we  had  used  and  also  straighten  up  the  ends  of  the  filling  threads, 
and  proceed  with  the  next  warp  thread  same  as  with  the  previous 
thread,  and  mark  down  the  draftings  of  each  of  the  succeed- 
.  ing  warp  and  filling  threads  in  rotation,  and  be  sure  and  have  the 
filling  threads  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  &c.,  to  10,  appear  in  the  squares  directly 
under  where  they  appeared  when  usiug  the  first  warp  thread.  By 
refering  to  Diagrams  1  and  2,  you  will  observe  how  each  filling 
thread  passes  from  top  to  bottom  in  a  straight  line,  and  how  each 
warp  thread  passes  in  a  straight  line  from  right  to  left. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  11 


The  foregoing  example  will  be  sufficient  for  the  learner  to  un- 
derstand the  method  of  drafting  and  the  requirements ;  and  for 
practicing  purposes,  cut  off  from  the  bottom  of  the  first  sample 
of  cloth  about  one  inch,  holding  the  cloth  sideways  as  directed, 
and  commence  with  the  upper  right  hand  corner  as  directed,  and 
draft  from  the  doeskin  first,  and  use  15  filling  threads  and  10 
warp  threads,  and  if  you  draft  each  thread  right,  the  design  will 
correspond  with  Diagram  No.  1.  Should  you  commence  to  draft 
with  a  different  filling  thread  than  was  used  for  diagram  draft,  your 
design  will  commence  reading  from  the  right  a  little  differently, 
but  by  passing  towards  the  left  you  will  find  a  beginning  which 
will  correspond  with  the  diagram;  or,  if  you  should  commence 
with  a  different  wrarp  thread  it  will  read  differently  from  the  top 
of  your  design;  but  by  passing  towards  the  bottom  you  will  find 
a  beginning  which  will  correspond  with  the  diagram.  The  best 
plan  would  be  for  yon  to  follow  the  warp  thread  which  you  happen 
to  commence  with  towards  the  left,  till  you  find  two  filling  threads 
which  pass  under  the  warp  thread,  and  the  next  or  third  filling 
to  pass  over  the  warp  thread,  and  ravel  out  the  preceeding  filling 
threads,  so  as  to  commence  to  draft  with  those  filling  threads 
which  passed  under  the  warp;  in  that  case  your  design  would 
read  the  same  as  Diagram  No.  1,  and  you  would  understand  the 
idea  much  better.  But  providing  your  draftings  were  correct,  it 
would  not  make  any  difference  where  or  with  what  warp  or  filling 
thread  you  commenced,  as  it  would  weave  the  doeskin.  You  will 
also  observe  after  you  have  drafted  to  the  6th  filling  thread,  that 
it  repeats "the^  thread  which  you  commenced  with  and  so  on.  Also 
the  6th  warp  thread  will  repeat  the  first;  the  7th,  the  2d;  and  so 
on,  providing  you  have  made  no  mistakes;  and  that  tells  you 
that  5  warp  and  5  filling  threads  will  make  a  pattern  of  the  doe- 
skin, and  consequently  would  make  the  goods  same  as  the  sample. 
And  that  is  the  way  designers  usually  know  when  they  have  draft- 
ed a  pattern  by  the  repetition  of  the  harness  and  bolts,  unless  we 
are  dealing  with  a  cross  draw ;  and  when  we  have  an  idea  we  »are 
dealing  with  them,  wTe  keep  drafting  till  there  is  a  repetition 
which  must  come  sometime.  And  if  we  have  a  cross  draw  to 
work  out,  we  then  commence  to  work  it  out  as  will  be  explained 
hereafter.  Experience  enables  a  person  to  judge  very  correctly 
whether  a  pattern  is  a  cross  draw  or  an  ordinary  weave. 


12  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


EXPLANATION  OF  DIAGRAM  No.  1. 


DIAGRAM  No.  1  represents  the  chain  for  operating  the  harness 
to  produce  the  doeskin  weave  of  the  sample  of  cloth.  Observe  it 
is  separated  into  two  patterns.  It  is  a  5  harness  weave,  and  5 
bolts  will  make  it;  but  diagram  represents  5  harness,  10  bolts; 
the  2d  5  bolts  repeat  the  first  5,  and  thus  it  effects  no  change  in 
the  cloth.  The  same  could  be  extended  to  50  or  more  bolts  in 
length,  providing  that  each  set  of  5  bolts  repeated  the  5  preced- 
ing. 10  bolts  are  represented  in  the  diagram,  because  the  herring- 
bone requires  10  bolts  for  each  pattern ;  and  as  the  two  weaves 
are  combined,  we  must  have  the  same  number  of  bolts  for  each 
weave  of  the  combination.  Some  cloths  are  made  by  combining 
several  weaves;  and  when  combining  weaves  we  are  not  usually 
restricted  to  any  definite  number  of  harness,  for  each  weave  of  the 
combination;  but  they  must  be  combined  so  as  to  have  the 
chain  work  for  each  weave  of  the  combination  of  the  same  num- 
ber of  bolts;  this  can  be  arranged  sometimes  by  the  drawing  of 
the  threads  into  the  harness,  (which  is  explained  under  that  head.) 

By  holding  the  book  sideways,  the  top  towards  the  right  hand, 
and  looking  at  the  diagram,  the  view  then  represents  the  chain 
as  it  appears  when  hanging  on  the  chain  cylinder  of  a  loom,  with 
chain  work  on  the  right  hand  end,  and  as  you  stand  at  the  front 
of  the  loom,  the 

1st  bolt  which  is  the  bottom,  says  harness  1,  2  and  3  rise,  4  sinks,  and  5  rise. 
3d  bolt      "  "        "          "  "1  rise,  2  sinks,  8,  4  and  5  rise. 

3d  bolt      "  "        "          "  "      1,  2,  3  and  4  rise,  and  5  sinks. 

4th  bolt     "  "1  and  2  rise,  3  sinks,  4  and  5  rise. 

5th  bolt      "  "          "  "1  sink,  2,  3,  4  and  5  rise. 

And  the  next  5  repeat  the  above,  and  so  on  as  the  chain  is 
revolved.  Each  bolt  represents  one  pick  of  filling,  and  thus  each 
bolt  shows  how  the  filling  passes  over  and  under  the  warp  in  one 
pattern.  In  this  weave,  4  threads  are  up  to  one  down  in  each 
change;  consequently,  four-fifths  of  the  filling  is  upon  the  back 
at  nil  times.  This  is  the  original,  and  in  fact  is  the  only  doeskin 
weave  f  there  are  so  called,  6,  8,  10,  11  &  12  harness  doeskins ;  in 
the  12  harness  doeskins  there  is  still  more  filling  upon  the  back, 
and  the  twill  is  longer  than  for  the  other  doeskins;  but  the  5  liar- 
ness  is  the  weave  usually  applied  to  make  the  black  doeskins, 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  13 


made  by  the  Slaters,  of  Webster,  Mass.,  and  others  who  have  the 
reputation  of-  making  the  best. 

Why  I  commence  to  read  the  changes  at  the  bottom  and  read 
up,  is  because  the  chain  revolves  towards  you  when  in  motion; 
and  if  the  ends  were  linked  together  and  the  bottom  bolt  placed 
to  commence  the  first  harness  motion,  the  second  bolt  would  make 
the  next  and  so  on.  You  also  observe  this  and  all  other  dia- 
grams, have  marked  under  them  the  word  "  front ;"  that  word 
denotes  that  the.diagrams  are  intended  to  represent  the  harness  of 
the  looms  as  they  appear  when  standing  to  the  front  of  the 
loom,  facing  the  harness ;  and  by  holding  the  book  sideways,  the 
diagrams  represent  the  chain  as  it  hangs  upon  the  cylinder  when 
operating  the  harness;  and  to  hang  the  doeskin  chain  on  a  loom 
which  carries  the  chain  on  the  right  hand  end  as  you  stand  to  the 
front,  put  the  left  hand  end  over  the  cylinder;  and  to  hang  the 
same  chain  on  a  loom  which  carries  the  chain  on  the  left  hand 
end  as  you  stand  to  front,  put  the  right  hand  end  of  the  chain 
over  the  cylinder,  turning  the  chain  completely  over,  bottom  side 
up  with  the  ends  reversed.  These  instructions  are  for  making  a 
right  twill  tame  as  the  cloth  sample ;  for  a  left  twill  hang  them  the 
reverse.  But  should  you  hang  the  chain  for  any  pattern,  and 
they  do  not  work  as  wanted,  it  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  change 
the  ends  of  the  chain  and  make  them  work  right. 


EXPLANATION    OF    DIAGEAM    No.    2. 

DIAGRAM  No.  2  represents  the  chain  for  operating  the  harness 
to  produce  the  herringbone  weave  of  the  sample  of  cloth  with  the 
two  threads  of  orange  and  black  twist,  which  pass  through  its  cen- 
tre: and  it  now  represents  22  harness,  10  bolts,  and  shows  just 
how  many  harness  and  how  large  the  chain  would  have  to  be 
built,  providing  there  was  no  method  of  cross  drawmg.  When 
the  learner  has  drafted  several  patterns  of  the  doeskin  weave,  and 
understands  how  the  threads  run  and  how  to  write  them  corl'ect- 
ly,  then  commence  to  draft  the  herringbone,  and  use  about  20  fill- 
ing threads  making  your  design  of  20  bolts,  and  22  warp  threads 
will  be  required  to  complete  it;  20  threads  for  the  herringbone, 
and  2  threads  for  the  orange  and  black  twist.  You  will  notice  in 
your  drafting,  that  the  2  orange  and  twist  threads  draft  the  same 


14  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

as  two  of  the  threads  in  the  doeskin  weave,  which  tells  you  they 
were  used  on  the  doeskin  harness  and  not  on  the  -herringbone. 
After  drafting  the  herringbone,  if  done  correctly,  it  will  corre- 
spond with  Diagram  No.  2  ;  and  to  understand  more  easily,  you 
had  better  erase  those  parts  which  do  not  correspond  with  the  dia- 
gram ;  say  erase  from  the  right  towards  the  left  till  the  top  thread 
or  harness  reads  5  risers,  same  as  design,  and  providing  you  have 
drafted  correctly,  the  balance  of  your  design  will  correspond  with 
the  diagram. 

By  holding  the  book  sideways,  the  top  towards  the  right  hand, 
the  view  then  represents  the  chain  as  it  would  appear  upon  the 
loom,  providing  we  could  not  cross  draw  it;  it  appears  to  be  ope- 
rating 22  harness,  and  with  the  5  harness  doeskin  combined,  we 
should  have  27  harness,  and  as  we  have  no  27  harness  looms,  we 
mast  manage  to  cross  draw  some  way  to  make  some  of  the  har- 
ness carry  some  extra  threads,  and  thus  bring  the  harness  into 
closer  quarters. 

.  You  will  observe  there  are  several  repetitions  in  the  diagram. 
The  repetitions  are  divided  and  called  setts ;  1st  set,  2d  set,  and 
so  on  to  the  4th  set;  the  second  set  of  5  warp  threads  or  5  har- 
ness Nos.  6,  7,  8,  9  and  10,  repeat  the  first  set  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4  and  5  ; 
the  llth  and  12th  harness  are  the  same  as  Nos.  4  and  5  of  the  doe- 
skin set;  the  3d  set,  Nos.  13,  14,  15,  16  and  17,  are  also  a  repeti- 
tion of  set  No.  1,  only  they  seem  to  run  backwards  ;  also  the  4th 
set,  Nos.  18, 19,  20,  21  and  22  repeat  the  1st  set,  and  run  the  same 
as  the  3d  set ;  at  all  events,  sets  Nos.  2, 3  and  4  all  repeat  the  first 
set.  And  now  the  idea  is  proposed  to  reduce  the  22  harness,  so 
that  we  can  dispose  of  a  part  of  the  harness  and  still  make  the 
cloth,  and  now  to  carry  out  the  proposed  idea. 

22  HARNESS  CROSS  DRAWN  AND  REDUCED  TO 
5  HARNESS. 

See  Diagram,  No.  2,  "  C.  D."  Commence  with  the  bottom  har- 
ness called  No.  1,  the  next  No.  2,  next  No.  3,  next  No.  4,  next 
No.  5.  I  will  say  draw  the  first  thread  intended  for  herringbone 
on  first  harness,  2d  thread  on  2d  harness,  3d  thread  on  3d  har- 
ness, 4th  thread  on  4th  harness,  5th  thread  on  5th  harness,  and 
which  is  straight  drawing;  we  find  harness  No.  C,  the  same  as 
harness  No.  1  ;  we  will  come  back  and  put  thread  No.  6,  on  that 
harness. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  15 


Har.  No.  7,  same  as  harness  No.  2,  we  will  put  7th  thread  on  that  harness. 
Har.  No.  8,  same  as  harness  No.  3,  we  will  put  8th  thread  on  that  harness. 
Har.  No.  9,  same  as  harness  No.  4,  we  will  put  9th  thread  on  that  harness. 
Har.  No.  10,  same  as  harness  No.  5,  we  will  put  10th  thread  on  that  harness. 

Here  we  find  a  little  change ;  Nos.  11  and  12  are  not  similar  to 
any  of  the  herringbone  harness.  But  we  see  in  the  doeskin  set,, 
two  harness  which  are  just  like  them  and  which  are  Nos.  4  and  5  ; 
so  that  those  two  threads  may  be  used  on  those  two  harness,  when 
we  draw  them  into  the  harness,  and  proceed  with  No.  13,  which 
belongs  to  the  herringbone. 

13  same  as  Harness  No.  5,  and  we  will  put  the  13th  Thread  on  that  harness. 

14  same  as  Harness  No.  4,  and  we  will  put  the  14th  Thread  on  that  harness. 

15  same  as  Harness  No.  3,  and  we  will  put  the  loth  Thread  on  that  harness. 

16  same  as  Harness  No.  2,  and  we  will  put  the  16th  Thread  on  that  harness. 

17  same  as  Harness  No.  1,  and  we  will  put  the  17th  Thread  on  that  harness. 

18  same  as  Harness  No.  5,  and  we  will  put  the  18th  Thread  on  that  harness. 

19  same  as  Harness  No.  4,  and  we  will  put  the  19th  Thread  on  that  harness. 

20  same  as  Harness  No.  3,  and  we  will  put  the  20th  Thread  on  that  harness. 

21  same  as  Harness  No.  2,  and  we  will  put  the  21st  Thread  on  that  harness. 

22  same  as  Harness  No.  1,  and  we  will  put  the  22d  Thread  on  that  harness. 

What  are  the  conclusions?  Well,  we  have  disposed  of  the  22 
threads,  and  which  represented  22  harness  by  a  cross  draw,  so  that 
5  harness  will  make  the  same  herringbone  stripe  which  20  harness 
would  make,  and  combined  with  the  5  harness  doeskin  for  the 
plain  weave,  gives  only  10  harness  to  be  operated  to  make  the 
cloth.  By  refer! ng  to  the  diagram,  it  shows  for  itself  how  the 
threads  are  to  be  drawn  into  the  harness,  which  are  5  threads 
straight  through  twice,  making  10  threads  for  one  side^of  the 
stripe ;  then  the  2  threads  of  orange  and  black  twist  are  drawn 
into  the  doeskin  harness ;  then  the  next  10  threads  of  the  stripe 
are  drawn  backwards,  5  threads  twice  through,  and  the  drawing 
in  of  the  herringbone  is  accomplished.  Then  draw  in  those 
threads  intended  for  the  doeskin  on  the  doeskin  set  straight 
through. 

We  could  have  commenced  with  the  4th  set  and  cross  draAvn 
as  well  as  first  set.  Also  any  one  of  the  4  sets  can  be  used,  and 
the  same  drawing  of  forward  and  back,  would  make  the  stripe. 
In  this  case  the  first  set  has  been  used,  but  the  chain  of  the  first 
set  would  make  a  left  twill,  while  the  doeskin  chain  represents 
a  right  twill,  so  that  we  will  use  the  chain  of  the  4th  set,  and 


16  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

thus  have  the  twill  for  both  run  the  same  way,  so  that  sets  Nos. 
1,  2  and  3  may  be  cancelled.  Set  No.  4,  you  observe  is  the  same 
as  set  No.  1,  turned  over,  not  end  for  end,  but  side  for  side  directly 
over.  And  that  suggests  an  idea,  that  in  case  a  chain  should  be 
attached  to  make  a  right  twill,  and  it  should  be  wrong  and  make 
a  left  twill,  by  turning  it  over  we  get  the  right  twill.  To  make 
the  stripe  in  the  sample,  the  4th  set  was  used  same  as  Diagram 
No.  3.  Also  the  doeskin  set  was  used  in  front,  as  the  doeskin  is 
to  be  the  principal  or  ground  weave  of  the  combination,  contain- 
ing nearly  four-fifths  of  the  warp  threads. 


REMARKS   ON   HERRINGBONE   TWILLS,  TWISTS,  &c. 

You  will  notice  the  herringbone  could  not  be  made  with  5  bolts 
as  a  coarser  twill  is  wanted  than  5  bolts  could  make.  .  The  width 
of  the  twill  to  herringbone  can  be  regulated  by  the  number  of 
threads  used,  by  using  the  same  set  as  is  represented  by  Diagram 
No.  3,  and  use  only  10  threads;  say  5  threads  over  and  5  back, 
the  width  of  the  stripe,  would  be  less  than  in  cloth  sample.  By 
drawing  15  threads  over,  (5  threads  3  times),  and  15  threads  back, 
the  width  would  be  increased.  A  whole  piece  of  27  or  more 
inches  wide,  could  be  made  into  one  herringbone  with  the  point 
in  the  center  of  the  cloth,  by  drawing  the  first  one-half  of  the 
warp  threads  straight  through,  and  the  other  one-half  backwards 
through.  Another  cross  draw  could  be  made  so  that  the  herring- 
bone and  doeskin  could  both  be  made  on  the  doeskin  set  of  5 
harness,  in  which  case  the  doeskin  chain  would  weave  both  at  the 
same  time.  But  such  a  cross  draw  would  make  the  weaving  diffi- 
cult, and  in  case  of  threads  breaking,  and  wrong  drawings  by  the 
weaver,  we  should  be  apt  to  have  imperfections.  Also,  there 
would  be  too  many  threads  crowded  upon  one  harness  ;  the  more 
simple  the  weaving  the  better,  as  with  complicated  weaves  the 
weavers  are  apt  to  get  threads  mixed  by  wrong  drawings  when 
the  warp  breaks  badly,  and  thus  spoil  our  patterns.  Again,  the 
more  simple  the  weaving,  (other  things  favorable),  the  more  yards 
from»the  looms ;  and  the  more  yards  from  the  looms,  the  less  will 
be  the  average  cost  per  yard  for  labor  and  manufacturing  gene- 
rally. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  17 


Herringbones  ca*n  be  made  upon  3,  4,  6,  7,  8,  9  or  more  harness, 
the  number  of  harness  depend  somewhat  upon  the  number  of 
threads  wanted,  but  a  5  or  10  harness  make  about  the  best  size. 

We  have  another  weave  which  may  justly  be  called  related  to 
the  herringbone,  and  wfcich  is  called  a  Feather,  and  which  require 
the  threads  to  be  drawn  forward  and  backward  through  the  har- 
ness, the  same  as  for  herringbones ;  and  they  may  be  made  upon 
various  setts  of  harness,  the  number  of  harness  to  be  used,  usually 
depend  upon  the  size  of  the  feather  wanted ;  also  the  width  and 
size  of  the  feather,  depends  upon  the  number  of  threads  used  upon 
each  side  of  the  point. 

There  are  two  twills  called  right  twill  and  left  twill,  and  the 
herringbone  stripe  in  the  cloth  sample  will  answer  for  an  illustra- 
tion. The  left  side  of  the  stripe  is  a  left  twill ;  the  twill  run- 
ning from  right  off  to  the  left;  while  the  right  side  is  aright 
twill,  the  twill  running  from  left  off  to  the. right,  and  is  the  same 
as  the  doeskin  weaving.  For  further  remarks  upon  twists  and 
twills,  see  Part  Second,  Spinning  Department. 


EXPLANATION  OF  DIAGRAM  No.  3. 

DIAGRAM  No.  3,  represents  the  chain  for  operating  the  harness, 
to  produce  the  herringbone  stripe,  after  it  has  been  cross  drawn 
and  reduced  to  5  harness ;  and  is  the  same  as  tlie  4th  set  of  Dia- 
gram No.  2,  which  set  was  used  to  make  the  cloth  of  page  5.  By 
writing  a  copy  of  Diagrams  Nos.  1  and  3,  with  Diagram  No.  1,  at 
the  front,  the  design  then  represents  an  exact  copy  of  the  design 
from  which  the  chain  was  built  to  weave  the  cloth,  (Doeskin  and 
Herringbone  stripe.)  And  also  represents  the  harness  as  they  ap- 
pear in  the  loom  (while  weaving),  as  you  stand  at  the  front. 


QUESTIONS  TO  BE  CONSIDERED  IN  ORIGINATING  PATTERNS,  AS 
WELL  AS  MAKING  GOODS  FROM  A  SAMPLE. 

The  cloth  sample  on  page  5,  is  employed  to  explain  more  clearly, 
the  ideas  to  be  obtained  from  some  of  the  answers  to  the  follow- 
ing questions : 

Question  1.  What  weave  is  the  sample,  or  if  a  combination 
of  weaves,  what  are  they  ? 


18  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

Ques.  2.  How  many  threads  in  the  warp,' and  what  size  of 
yarn,  and  how  are  the  colors  arranged  ? 

Ques.  3.  How  many  threads  per  inch  of  tilling,  what  size  of 
yarn,  and  how  are  the  colors  arranged  ? 

Ques.  4.  If  composed  of  patterns  how  many  in  the  piece,  and 
divide  the  patterns  to  spool  and  dress  correctly? 

Ques.  5.  What  weight  per  yard  is  the  sample,  and  Avhat  weight 
is  wanted  ? 

Ques.  6.  Is  the  cloth  to  be  of  one  color  or  shade,  or  a  mixture, 
or  a  combination  ? 

Ques.  1.  What  grade  of  goods  does  the  sample  appear  to  be, 
or  what  grade  is  required  ? 

Ques.  8.     Propose  the  stock  for  the  goods. 

Ques.  9.  Form  an  estimate  of  what  will  be  the  cost  per  yard 
if  made  of  the  proposed  stock. 

Ques.  10.     Make  out  the  spooling  and  dressing  draft. 

Ques.  11.  Make  out  the  number  of  harness  required,  and  the 
heddles  required  for  each  harness,  and  the  size  of  the  reed. 

Ques.  12.  Make  out  the  draft  for  drawing  the  threads  into  the 
harness,  the  reed,  and  build  the  harness  chain. 

Ques.  13.  Make  out  a  memorandum  of  the  cost  of  one  yard 
of  the  goods  for  stock,  labor,  manufacturing,  &c.,  &c.  (See  Part 
Second,  estimating  cost  of  goods.) 

Answer  to  Question  1st. — Suppose  the  goods  are  to  be  made  an 
exact  copy  of  the  sample  on  page  5.  By  drafting  the  sample,  two 
weaves  are  found  to  be  combined,  which  are  a  doeskin  (for  the 
ground  weave),  with  a  herringbone  stripe. 

NOTE. — Tliwe  are  many  practical  designers  who  can  form  an 
opinion  at  a  glance,  of  the  probable  weave  of  a  piece  of  cloth.  But 
those  persons  usually  draft  a  few  threads,  to  be  sure  they  are  cor- 
cect.  There  are  but  a  few  designers,  who  are  as  positive  of  their 
knowledge  and  sound  judgment,  as  was  a  manufacturer,  (who  is 
well  known  to  the  author),  who  had  partially  engaged  a  designer 
by  correspondence ;  and  when  Mr.  Designer  appeared  at  his  off- 
fice  the  manufacturer  took  some  samples  of  cloth  from'  his  pocket, 
and  said :  "  Can  you  tell  me  of  what  weave  these  samples  are  ?" 
"I  think  I  can,"  said  Mr.  Designer.  "I  should  wish  to  draft  a 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


19 


few  threads  from  one  of  them  to  make  a  positive  reply."    "Oh," 

said  Mr.  Manufacturer,  "any  d d  fool  can  draft  a  pattern,  I 

want  a  man  who  knows  all  abont  it  without  having  to  draft  the 
patterns."  Mr.  Designer  bids  him  "good  morning,  sir,"  not  wish- 
ing any  further  acquaintance  with  the  Manufacturer,  or  the  expec- 
ted position.  The  question  of  weaves  is  then  decided,  and  we 
pass  along  to  the 

Answer  to  Question  2d. — To  ascertain  the  number  of  threads 
in  the  warp  by  a  sample,  measure  off  one  inch  across  the  warp 
threads,  and  count  the  threads  found  in  one  inch ;  and  if  making 
f  wide  goods,  say  27  inches  wide  when  finished,  multiply  the 
threads  found  in  one  inch,  by  the  width  27  inches,  or  by  any 
other  width  wanted.  Thus  70  threads  per  inch,  and  27  inches 
wide,  gives  1890  threads,  which  I  will  call  even  1900  threads. 

By  an  examination  of  the  warp  threads,  they  are  found  to  be  not 
far  from  four  runs  fine,  and  well  twisted,  and  they  are  all  single, 
excepting  the  few  threads  of  orange  and  black  twist.  The  yarn 
appears  to  be  somewhat  coarser  than  four  runs,  but  it  is  necessary 
to  allow  a  little  for  the  coarseness,  as  our  sample  is  finished  goods, 
and  the  yarn  for  a  finished  piece  is  somewhat  coarser  than  before 
it  is  finished. 

As  the  fulling  and  scouring  processes  full  the  goods  a  little  and 
increase  the  size  of  the  yarns  somewhat,  thus  changing  the  appear- 
ance of  them.  Also  goods  which  are  flocked  heavily,  the  yarn 
will  appear  somewhat  coarser,  so  that  an  accurate  decision  of  the 
size  of  a  yarn  from  a  finished  cloth  sample  cannot  be  obtained. 
But  for  the  size  of  yarn  to  use,  we  shall  have  to  be  governed  some- 
what by  the  grade  of  goods  usually  made,  that  is,  the  number  of 
threads  we  usually  put  in  our  warps.  Also  the  qualities  of  stock 
usually  used;  also  what  weight  the  goods  may  be  wanted  when 
finished;  also  what  weave  is  wanted,  as  if  we  were  to  try  to  imi- 
tate a  cloth  which  had  yarn  of  some  nine  runs  fine,  we  should 
not  try  to  make  a  yarn  equally  as  fine  of  60  pr.  ct.  4th  quality 
fleece  mixed  with  40  pr.  ct.  coarse,  short,  shoddy;  but  we  might 
be  able  to  make  a  fair  imitation  of  colors,  weave,  and  the  gene- 
ral style  of  the  sample  from  a  coarser  stock.  If  we  were  intend- 
ing to  make  a  good  Tricot,  Broadcloth,  or  Doeskin,  a  good  warp 
would  be  required,  with  plenty  of  threads  in  it,  in  which  case  we 


20  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

should  want  the  size  of  yarn  finer  in  proportion  to  the  number 
of  threads  to  be  used. 

The  arrangement  of  the  colors  can  be  ascertained  by  counting 
each  warp  thread,  and  noting  the  colors  as  they  appear  in  a  pat- 
tern. The  sample  of  cloth  on  page  5th,  is  a  shaded  stripe  in  the 
warp  of  the  doeskin  weaving,  and  by  counting  the  threads  and 
noting  each  color  in  the  respective  order  in  which  they  appear 
from  the  point  of  one  herringbone  across  to  the  other,  the  shad- 
ing can  be  traced,  so  that  a  copy  might  be  made  which  would  be 
a  perfect  imitation ;  should  you  trace  out  the  shading  to  prove 
you  are  correct,  by  referring  to  a  subsequent  page,  the  order  in 
which  the  threads  are  used  in  the  sample  is  printed. 

Answer  to  Question  3d. — To  ascertain  the  number  of  threads 
of  filling  in  a  given  inch,  measure  off  one  inch  across  the  filling, 
and  count  the  number  of  threads  per  inch,  and  you  have  the  num- 
ber of  threads  required;  (the  usual  expression  would  be  the  num- 
ber of  picks  to  the  inch.)  And  in  making  calculations  for  size  of 
yarn  for  filling,  we  shall  have  to  be  governed  same  as  for  making 
warp  calculations,  and  by  the  number  of  picks  we  wish  to  put  in 
to  regulate  the  firmness ;  the  less  picks  put  in,  the  more  yards 
from  looms,  at  a  less  cost  for  weaving  and  general  expense  of 
manufacturing.  But  picks  enough  should  be  put  in  to  make  a 
firm  cloth,  which  will  handle  well  when  finished,  and  not  be 
sleazy  and  stretchy.  Goods  are  generally  handled  in  market  by 
men  of  practice  and  good  judgment;  and  there  are  other  and 
better  means  to  employ  for  practicing  deception,  than  to  leave 
out  too  many  picks,  or  too  many  warp  threads.  Sometimes  infe- 
rior stock  in  goods  is  partially  overlooked,  when  made  to  handle 
firm  and  strong.  The  arrangement  of  the  colors  can  be  ascer- 
tained? by  an  examination  of  the  filling  threads.  Usually,  there 
are  not  so  many  changes,  or  such  a  variety  of  colors  in  the  filling 
as  in  the  warp.  Sometimes  the  filling  is  of  the  shaded  pattern, 
same  as  the  warp  of  the  sample  on  page  5,  where  a  shaded  plaid 
is  wanted  ;  and  in  that  case,  a  filling  chain  is  required  to  operate 
the  shuttles,  or  the  box  motion,  and  such  a  chain  would  require 
the  reverse  motion  ;  and  some  of  the  various  tappet  sections  which 
are  used  with  the  Crompton  loom,  as  for  instance,  the  tappet 
section,  No.  27,  plate  9,  Crompton's  illustrated  catalogue  of  looms, 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  21 


with  a  reverse  motion,  might  be  made  to  make  almost  any  shad- 
ing, and  which  works  of  itself  without  any  reverse,  1,  2,  3,  4,  3,  2, 
1,  respectively.  When  there  is  no  shading  in  the  filling,  the  man- 
ner in  which  the  filling  should  be  introduced,  may  be  determined 
by  drafting  the  pattern  from  a  piece,  and  noting  how  each  pick 
was  introduced.  The  bolts  will  show  whether  it  predominates 
upon  the  face  or  back.  (See  cloth  samples  and  their  respective 
designs.) 

Answer  to  Question  4. — Should  our  cloth  be  what  is  termed  a 
plain  piece  of  only  one  color,  it  would  not  be  necessary  to  men- 
tion about  patterns,  and  would  only  be  necessary  to  make  out 
spooling  and  dressing  draft,  and  only  mention  the  number  of  sec- 
tions to  be  dressed,  and  number  of  threads  in  a  section.  Should 
the  cloth  contain  patterns,  same  as  the  sample  on  page  5,  then 
get  the  measure  of  one  pattern,  say  from  the  inside  of  one  orange 
twist  thread  to  the  outside  of  the  other,  or  from  one  green  stripe 
across  to  the  other;  and  as  per  the  sample,  the  measure  is  found 
to  be  about  1^  Jnches  for  a  pattern  ;  divide  the  width  the  goods 
are  to  be  wfien  finished,  by  the  size  of  one  pattern,  say  for  a  (f ) 
Avide,  (27  inches),  divided  by  1^  inches,  the  quotient  is  about  25; 
thus  the  piece  was  made  and  contained  25  patterns.  The  sections 
to  be  employed  in  the  warp,  will  be  determined  by  the  number  of 
threads  (as  a  general  rule),  we  want  in  the  warp,  and  the  sizes  of 
the  reed  we  have  for  the  dresser,  and  the  number  of  patterns 
wanted  in  the  goods.  We  have  previously  ascertained  that  the 
warp  of  the  sample  contained  1900  threads,  and  that  the  finest 
reed  for  the  dresser  will  not  carry  over  500  threads  for  a  section,  so 
that  we  cannot  have  over  500  threads  in  a  section.  We  have  coarser 
reeds  which  will  carry  less  threads  for  a  section,  and  also  less 
threads  may  be  used  in  the  500  reed.  Now,  if  the  patterns  in  the 
goods  wei'e  only  20,  we  could  dress  in  4  sections  by  using  475 
threads  in  a  section,  and  5  patterns  in  a  section  ;  in  this  case  25 
patterns  are  wanted,  and  the  25  patterns  cannot  be  divided  evenly 
by  4,  so  that  it  cannot  be  dressed  in  4  sections  and  have  the  pat- 
terns come  evenly;  but  the  25  patterns  can  be  divided  by  5,  so 
that  the  warp  may  be  dressed  in  5  sections  of  380  threads  in  a 
section'  (giving  us  the  1900  threads  for  the  warp),  and  gives  us 
the  5  patterns  in  each  section,  with  76  threads  for  a  pattern.  76 
threads  multiplied  by  5  patterns,  gives  380  threads  in  a  section; 


22  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

and  5  sections  gives  1900  threads  for  warp.  It  is  not  always  very 
necessary  to  have  the  threads  come  so  even ;  a  few  threads  may 
sometimes  be  dropped  from  one  pattern  and  added  to  another, 
and  no  material  change  can  be  seen. 

Ansiver  to  Question  5th. — Experience  in  handling  goods  enables 
a  person  to  judge"very  nearly  the  probable  weight  per  yard  of  a 
piece  of  goods.  But  when  the  number  of  threads  in  the  warp  is 
known,  and  the  size  of  the  threads,  and  the  number  of  threads  per 
inch  of  filling,  and  the  size  of  the  threads,  very  close  calculations 
of  the  weight  from  the  loom  can  be  made.  For  finished  weights, 
further  and  different  calculations  will  be  required.  And  judg- 
ment will  be  required,  as  to  the  fulling  and  probable  quantity  of 
flocks  applied,  though  some  goods  are  not  flocked,  and  (the  back 
will  usually  show  whether  flocked  or  not),  in  that  case,  the  calcu- 
lations as  presented  in  Part  Second,  Spinning  Department,  will 
explain  fully. 

Answer  to  Question  6th. — -Should  we  intend  to  make  a  plain 
piece  of  goods,  (that  is  all  one  color  or  shade),  it  would  be  an 
easy  matter  to  decide  the  coloring;  or  should  a  copy  be  desired 
from  a  pattern  which  contained  only  a  feAV  colors  or  shades,  it 
would  then  be  an  easy  matter  to  decide  the  coloring  and  arrang- 
ing. But  suppose  we  had,  or  wanted  to  produce  two  or  more 
shades  in  our  cloth,  and  those  shades  were  produced  by  mixing 
different  shades  or  colors  in  certain  proportions  in  the  wool,  then 
there  would  be  a  chance  to  exercise  your  faculties  in  the  system 
and  science  of  colors.  Here  the  Apothecary  scales  will  assist  very 
much  in  mixing  and  shading.  (See  remarks  on  mixtures.  Spin- 
ning department,  Part  2d.)  No  table  will  answer  for  making  mix- 
tures generally  speaking.  As  in  order  to  have  a  table  that  would 
answer,  we  should  want  samples  of  the  colors,  as  mentioned  in  the 
table.  Some  manufacturers  never  use  any  white  wool;  using  it 
either  colored,  stained,  or  in  a  mixture. 

If  a  combination  of  colors  or  shades  is  required,  as  a  general 
rule,  a  dyer  is  the  person  to  be  referred  to.  To  make  a  "happy 
combination,"  requires  a  person  with  a  faculty  for  discerning 
colors,  and  who  knows  the  results  of  placing  one  color  or  shade 
nearly  in  contact  with  another.  It  is  in  short,  the  systematic 
arrangement  of  colors,  according  to  their  natural  order,  that  the 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  23 

most  perfect  results  are  obtained.  No  other  fault  which  can  be 
applied  to  a  piece  of  cloth,  will  so  far  spoil  its  good  impression 
and  favorable  effect,  as  a  poor  combination,  even  if  the  colors  are 
bright. 

Answer  to  Question  1th. — Some  idea  of  the  gr^ide  of  goods  may 
be  formed,  by  observing  the  number  of  threads  in  the  warp  and 
filling,  and  by  the  size  of  those  threads ;  and  whether  those  threads 
are  single  fine  stock,  or  double  and  twist,  or  three  ply,  &c.  Also 
by  testing  the  strength  of  the  yarn,  whether  it  may  be  strong  and 
elastic,  or  weak  and  short.  If  many  threads  are  found  in  a  warp, 
they  will  be  apt  to  be  fine ;  and  if  fine,  they  must  necessarily  have 
been  made  of  fine  stock.  A  coarse,  large  thread  may  be  made  of 
fine  stock,  but  the  rule  won't  work  both  ways,  as  a  fine  thread 
cannot  be  made  of  a  very  coarse  stock.  The  same  remarks  will 
apply  to  filling.  If  the  tension  of  the  thread  is  strong  and  elas- 
tic, we  would  infer  that  good  stock  had  been  used,  and  that  the 
goods  were  not  injured  in  the  process  of  manufacturing.  General- 
ly the  matter  of  deciding  the  grade  of  goods,  is  very  easy  to  a  per- 
son who  has  had  some  experience  in  handling  various  grades. 
Manufacturers  generally  make  their  goods  a  certain  grade,  i.  e , 
that  generally  use  about  a  certain  grade  of  stock,  and  get  about  a 
certain  price  in  market,  so  that  when  copying  patterns  govern 
yourself  accordingly.  There  are  not  many  mills,  if  any,  where 
they  make  a  good  cloth  and  a  poor  cloth  also,  as  an  even  grade 
of  goods  has  been  found  to  be  more  profitable  in  a  long  run.  A 
well  made  fabric  will  usually  show  for  itself,  and  good  stock  prop- 
erly handled  and  manufactured  will  show  for  itself,  and  an  inex- 
perienced person  will  be  able  to  perceive  the  fact. 

Ansiver  to  Question  8th. — A  few  remarks  will  be  necessary 
before  a  direct  answer  can  be  made  to  this  question. 

When  proposing  the  stock  for  goods,  it  is  expected  that  the 
other  expenses  connected  with  the  business  are  known,  such  as 
labor,  manufacturing  and  general  expenses,  i.  e.  the  general  aver- 
age cost  per  yard.  And  in  this  case  to  explain  and  answer  the 
question  so  as  to  be  fully  understood,  we  will  suppose  that  we 
have  been  in  business  a  while,  and  kept  the  necessary  books,  and 
a  close  run  of  the  business,  and  are  enabled  to  estimate  the  aver- 


24  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

age  cost  per  month,  and  consequently  the  average  cost  per  yard 
for  all  expenses  of  the  business  outside  of  the  stock. 

The  cost  per  yard  for  stock  we  estimate,  when  any  change  has 
been  made  in  the  stock,  or  when  we  are  paying  more  or  less  for 
stock  generally  used.  Should  we  intend  to  use  more  colors  in  a 
few  pieces,  or  more  costly  colors,  we  must  then  add  a  little  to  the 
cost  of  manufacturing;  or  if  Ave  put  in  more  picks  of  filling,  then 
add  a  little  more  for  labor  per  yard;  and  more  picks  will  reduce 
the  production  of  yards  from  the  looms,  and  a  falling  off  in  the 
production  will  make  a  corresponding  rise  in  the  cost  per  yard 
throughout  the  whole  business.  The  expenses  outside  of  the 
stock  is  fully  explained  in  part  Second.  (Estimating  cost  of  goods, 
&c.) 

PROPOSED  STOCK  TO  BE  USED  TO  MAKE  THE  GOODS  WE  HAVE  so 

FAR  BKEN  CALCULATING  AND  DESIGNING. 

By  referring  to  the  table  of  weights  of  warp  and  filling  yarns, 
Spinning  Department,  Part  2d,  Ave  find  that  a  Avarp  of  1900  ends 
of  four  run  yarn,  Avill  give  for  the  first  calculation,  about  4£  ozs. 
per  yard,  and  Avith  the  addition  for  take  up  in  the  process  of  weav- 
ing, which  Avill  be  about  three-fourths  of  an  ounce,  Ave  then  have 
5£  ozs.  per  yard  as  the  Aveight  of  the  warp  yarn,  and  there  is  to 
be  another  addition  to  this  weight  for  the  alloAvance  of  Avaste 
which  Avill  be  made  from  the  stock  Avhile  in  the  process  of  man- 
ufacturing, and  as  the  stock  is  pretty  good,  not  much  short  stock, 
the  Avaste  Avill  not  be  much,  but  will  add  one-half  an  ounce  to 
each  yard  for  Avaste.  and  Avhich  will  make  a  yard  of  the  warp  6  ozs, 
for  calculating  the  cost  of  the  stock ;  and  for  the  filling,  the  cloth 
is  to  be  slayed  thirty-five  inches  Avide  in  the  loom  inside  of  lists, 
and  Avith  the  three-fourths  of  an  inch  on  each  side  for  lists,  mak- 
ing 1£  inches,  so  that  the  cloth  Avill  be  36£  inches  Avide  in  the 
loom,  and  Avith  40  picks  per  inch  of  filling,  Ave  get  the  folloAving, 
36^x40=1460,  and  the  filling  which  is  to^be  2|  runs  fine,  by  refer- 
ring to  table  of  warp  and  filling  yarns,  AVC  have  55  and  eight- tenth 
ozs.  per  yard  for  filling,  and  Avith  an  alloAvance  for  the  take  up 
Avhich  Avill  not  quite  equal  the  warp,  we  Avill  add  two-tenths 
Avhich  will  make  6  ozs.  of  filling  stock  per  yard ;  and  as  the  fill- 
ing is  to  be  mixed  AVOO!  and  waste,  Avill  allow  more  for  Avaste  in 
process  of  manufacturing,  and  for  which  will  alloAV  one  ounce, 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER, 


25 


making  7  ozs.  to  calculate  as  the  filling  weight  of  one  yard  to  esti- 
mate cost  of  stock;  thus  the  weight  of  one  yard  from  the  loom 
will  be  1H  ozs.  and  the  weight  of  one  yard  for  calculating  the 
cost,  and  the  stock  to  be  used  will  be  13  ozs.  And  the  percentage 
of  filling  to  warp  will  be  as  follows  k 

Warp,     6  ozs.  or   46  per  cent,  of  the  stock  per  yard. 
Filling,  7    "     "    54 

Total,    13  ozs.  or  100  per  cent,  proof. 

To  find  the  rate  per  cent,  of  stock  of  warp  and  filling  contained 
in  one  yard  of  cloth,  the  separate  weights  of  each  having  been  cal- 
culated and  knoiun. 

RULE. — Divide  the  weights  of  the  warp  and  filling,  each  taken 
separately,  and  expressed  decimally  by  the  sum  of  their  weights, 
the  quotients  will  be  their  given  rate  per  cent,  of  one  yard. 

EXAMPLE. — The  weight  of  warp  yarn  per  yard  is  6  ozs. 
The  weight  of  filling     "        "  7    " 


13)6.00(46  per  cent,  of  warp. 

598 


13  ozs. 

13)7.00(54  per  cent,  of  filling. 
712 


We  find  we  have  a  little  over  40  per  cent,  of  warp  and  not  quite 
54  per  cent,  filling,  a  little  fractional  part  only,  and  not  enough 
to  use  in  calculations,  so  that  if  we  were  to  use  all  one  kind  of 
stock  for  both  warp  and  filling  we  could  determine  very  easily 
how  the  proportions  would  read,  in  which  case  we  could  say  take 
46  Ibs.  and  54  Ibs.  of  each  100  Ibs.  used. 


We  will  propose  the  stock  as  follows,  and  estimate  about  how 
much  will  be  the  cost  per  yard : — We  will  have  little  more  than 
one-half  of  the  warp  No.  4  Fleece, 

Say  26  per.  cent,  the  balance  of  the  wrarp  (the  other  one-half )  No.  4.  Cal. 
20  "  we  will  have  about  one-third  of  the  filling,  No.  3  Fleece. 
18  "  "  "  "  Extra  Pulled. 

18        "  "  "  "        Shoddy., 

18 

100 

Now  we  wish  to  know  what  will  be  the  relative  proportion  of 
the  weights  of  each  of  the  qualities  mentioned  in  the  stock,  to 
each  other,  and  to  the  whole  weight  of  one  yard. 


26  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

When  a  combination  of  stock  is  used  in  making  a  yard  of  cloth, 
and  the  rate  per  cent,  of  each  of  the  combinations  is  known,  to  find 
the  relative  proportion  of  weight  of  each  of  the  component  parts  of 
the  combination. 

EULE. — Multiply  the  total  weight  of  one  yard  by  the  rate  per 
cent,  of  each  of  the  component  parts  forming  the  combination,  the 
product  will  be  the  relative  weights  of  that  part  of  the  combina- 
tion taken. 

EXAMPLE— 26  per  cent,  is  to  be  No.  4  Fleece. 
Multiply  13  ozs.  total  weight  of  one  yard,  by  the  rate  pr.  ct.  of  the 
component  (26  per  cent.)  part  taken,  which  is  26  per  cent.,  and  we 
get  3.38  ozs.  of  the  one  yard  is  No.  4JFleece. 

EXAMPLE— 20  per  cent,  is  to  be  No.  4  California. 
Multiply  13  ozs.,  total  weight  of  one  yard,  by  the  rate  per  cent,  of 
the  component  (20)  part  taken,  which  is  20  per  cent.,  and  we  get 
2.60  ozs.  of  the  one  yard  is^No.  4  California. 

3.38  ozs.  No.  4  Fleece. 
2.60    "      «     4Cal. 

5.98  ozs.  Warp. 

Proceed  with  each  of  the  component  parts  of  the  filling  stock 
as  with  the  warp.  We  then  have  the  stock  of  each  of  the  combi- 
nations for  one  yarn,  reduced  to  ounces  and  fractional  parts,  so 
that  we  can  extend  the  price  per  ounce  for  our  stock,  and  make 
our  estimates.  The  stock  as  proposed  for  one  yard  will  appear  as 
follows  when  all  carried : 

Answer  to  Question  Wi. — Example. 

g-  j  26  pr.  ct.  or  3.38  ounces  of  4th  qual.  Fleece,  at  5c.  per  oz.,  16.90  cents. 
M  20      "      "  2.60       "         4th    "     Cal.       "  4          "        10.40      " 
a  (  18      "      "  2.34       "         3d      "     Fleece,  "  5          "        11.60      " 
|  .{18      "      "2.34       "               Extra  Pulled  "  4          "         9.36 
E  (  18      "      "  2.34       "               Shoddy,          "  H        "         3.51 

100  pr.  ct.  or  13.  ounces  proof.  51.77  cts. 

The  prices  per  ounce  for  the  stock  as  carried  out  in  the  above 
example,  are  to  show  the  form  of  the  statement,  when  the  actual 
price  is  known  ;  and  shows  that  at  those  prices,  the  cost  per  yard 
for  the  stock  would  foot  up  fifty-one  cents  and  seventy-seven  hun- 
dredths,  or  about  three  quarters.  And  in  proposing  stock  in  this 
manner,  we  have  a  chance  after  making  estimate  as  above,  to 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  27 

sometimes  reduce  some  of  the  qualities  of  wool,  or  work  in  a  little 
more  shoddy,  as  you  will  observe  that  a  reduction  of  even  one- 
half  a  cent  per  ounce  makes  an  item  for  a  company,  where  per- 
haps the  production  of  yards  will  foot  np  1000  or  more  per  day; 
and  most  any  practical  manufacturer  could  tell  at  a  glance  (of  the 
proposed  stock  in  example),  whether  it  would  work  and  make  the 
grade  of  goods  for  which  it  was  proposed,  or  whether  a  little 
cheaper  stock  might  be  worked  in  and  still  make  good  work  and 
good  cloth.  The  prices  per  ounce  as  they  appear  in  the  above 
statement,  are  the  prices  of  clean  stock,  that  is  from  the  actual 
cost  of  the  wool  after  it  has  been  scoured,  and  the  exact  per  cent- 
age  of  shrinkage  obtained. 

These  calculations  will  be  explained  and  carried  still  farther 
hereafter,  in  Part  Second. 

Ansiver  to  Question  10th.  —  To  CALCULATE  FOR  SPOOLING  AND 
DRESSING.  —  As  before  decided,  we  are  to  have  1900  threads  in 
the  warp,  and  25  patterns  in  the  goods,  which  gives  76  threads 
for  each  pattern.  (Divide  1900  threads  by  25),  we  have  20  drab 
threads  for  each  herringbone  or  pattern  ;  we  have  2  green  threads 
in  each  pattern  ;  we  have  2  orange  and  black  twist  threads  in 
each  pattern  ;  the  balance,  or  52  threads  we  will  call  brown,  and 
makes  the  balance  of  one  pattern.  We  then  have  the  threads  for 
one  pattern  as  follows  : 

20  threads  Drab. 


One  pattern,  e  Twist. 

52        "      Brown. 

Total,  76  threads. 

We  can  now  divide  these  threads  and  commence  the  pattern 
next  to  the  listings,  as  we  may  desire.  We  will  now  pass  along 
and  calculate  for  Spooling.  (Before  we  can  decide  spools,  we 
shall  have  to  decide  the  sections,  and  we  have  already  decided  to 
have  five  sections. 

We  have  2  green  threads  in  each  pattern,  and  25  patterns  in 
the  goods,  making  50  threads  of  green  as  the  total  ;  20  drab  threads 
in  each  pattern,  making  500  threads  of  drab  as  the  total  ;  2  orange 
twist  threads  in  a  pattern,  50  threads  total,  and  52  brown  threads 
in  each  pattern,  1300  total.  The  total  threads  in  the  warp  of 
each  color,  are  a£  follows  : 


28  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 


500  threads  Drab. 
50      "        Green. 
50      "        Orange  twist. 
1300      "        Brown. 

Total,  1900  threads. 

We  will  now  determine  the  spools  we  shall  want  of  each  color 
of  yarn.  We  will  calculate  on  40  thread  spools. 

The  500  threads  of  drab  we  will  divide  by  the  number  of  sec- 
tions, which  are  5,  making  100  threads  for  a  section ;  which  100 
threads  divided  by  the  number  of  threads  we  put  on  a  spool,  which 
are  40,  and  we  have  2£  spool?. 

50  thds.  Green,  calculated  as  above,  and  we  have  J    Spool,  or  10  thds. 
50     "     Orange  twist,  "  "  "  £        " 

1300     "     Brown,  "  "          6i      " 

The  total  spools  and  parts  of  spools  for  the  several  colors,  will 
appear  as  follows : 

2  Spools  and  20  threads  of  Drab. 

0      "       but  10      "        "  Green. 

0      "       but  10       "        "  Orange  twist. 

6      "      and  20       "        "  Brown. 

Total,    8  Spools  and  60  threads,  equal  to  9£  Spools. 

PROOF.— 1900  threads  divided  by  5  sections,  gives  380  threads  in  each 
section,  divided  by  the  threads  put  on  each  spool  (40)  gives  9i  spools. 
2  Spools  might  be  saved  in  the  above,  by  Spooling  the  20  thds.  of  Drab, 

and  the  20  thds.  of  Brown,  on  the  same  Spool,  together  equals  1  Spool. 
Spool  the  10  tluls.  of-  Green,  and  the  10  thds.  of  Twist,  on  the  same  Spool, 

together  equals  -J  Spool. 

The  spools  as  above  given,  show  that  9£  will  be  required  in  the 
dressers'  rack,  if  the  yarn  is  spooled  in  the  order  above  given.  But 
the  number  of  spools  required  for  making  the  goods  intended, 
will  depend  entirely  upon  the  number  of  yards  of  yarn  wanted 
in  a  warp,  and  the  size  of  the  yarn.  40,000  yards  of  one  run  yarn 
would  make  more  spools  than  the  same  yards  of  10  run  yarn, 
because  the  coarse  yarn  would  fill  the  spools  so  much  more,  as 
there  is  such  a  great  difference  in  their  size  and  weight. 

Suppose  we  wish  to  make  a  warp  only,  and  we  wish  to  have  10 
cuts  of  30  yards  each,  but  will  dress  the  cuts  to  contain  33  yards 
each,  as  the  take  up  in  the  process  of  weaving  will  shorten  them, 
so  that  they  will  come  from  2  to  4  yards  less  when  woven,  than 
when  dressed.  10  cuts  of  33  yards,  equals  330  yards  required  in 
the  warp,  and  multiplied  by  the  5  sections,  eqnals  1050  yards  as 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  29 


the  yards  to  be  pnt  on  each  spool,  or  as  the  total  yards  of  yarn 
required.  The  5  sections  denote  that  we  shall  run  off  the  yarn 
from  the  spools  in  the  dressing  rack  5  times,  and  shall  take  330 
yards,  the  length  of  the  required  warp  5  times  from  one  spool, 
and  thus  the  clock  on  the  spooler  will  be  set  so  as  to  put  1650 
yards  on  a  spool.  The  calculations  will  be  obtained  in  the  same 
way  for  any  number  of  warps  of  any  length. 

We  must  now  decide  how  we  intend  the  colors  to  be  arranged, 
for  the  purpose  of  producing  the  patterns  in  the  goods.  Should 
we  wish  the  orange  twist  threads  to  appear  next  to  the  listing, 
we  would  commence  to  tie  in  the  dresser  with  those  threads. 
Should  we  wish  the  herringbone  to  come  next  to  the  listing,  we 
would  commence  by  tying  in  the  drab  threads.  Should  we  wish 
to  have  the  patterns  come  the  same  as  those  in  the  first  sample  of 
cloth,  we  would  commence  with  a  green  thread,  and  thus  there 
would  be  a  green  thread  next  to  the  lists  on  each  side.  And  we 
will  commence  with  one  green  thread  next  to  the  listing  as  fol- 
lows: 

1  thread  of  Green. 


Brown. 

Drab. 

Orange  twist. 

Drab. 

Brown. 

Green. 


76  threads  in  one  pattern. 

We  will  now  give  the  summary  of  the  Spooling  and  Dressing 
to  the  person  having  charge,  as  follows : 

SPOOLING  AND  DRESSING  DRAFT  FOR  STYLE  No.  1. 

SPOOL — 6  spools  and  20  threads  of  brown  single  (lot  1)  2(50  threads. 
2       "        "    20        "  drab          "      "    2   10Q 

0      "        "10        "  green        "      "     3     10        " 

0      "        "10        "    orange  &  blk.  twist,    4     10        " 

Threads  in  1  Section,  380 
Five  Sections.  5 

•-  

Total  threads  in  the  Warp,  1900 

In  some  mills  they  have  different  sizes  for  guides  to  the  spool- 
ers, so  that  they  can  make  spools  with  various  threads  on  each 
spool  as  may  be  wanted,  and  thus  are  enabled  to  make  more  even 
spools.  And  supposing  we  had  several  guides,  we  could  make 
the  spooling  more  even  for  the  above,  and  save  a  little  in  cost  of 


30 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


spooling,  and  not  have  so  many  parts  of  spools.     Spoolers  would 
have  to  exercise  care  and  not  tie  on  from  the  wrong  bobbins. 


SPOOL—  5  Spools,  48  Guide  of  Brown,  single  (lot  1) 

2      "        40      "  -,       Drab,        "  "    2 

Brown,     "    20  tluls.        1 
Drab,        "    20    "      "    2 
10    "   •   "    3 


Green, 

Orange  twist  10     "       "    4  f 

Threads  in  1  Section, 


240  threads. 

80      " 

40       " 


380 


Thus  making  even  spools.  The  guides  as  mentioned  above 
indicate  to  the  person  having  charge  of  the  spooling,  the  threads 
to  put  on  a  spool.  Care  must  be  taken  when  using  guides  of  dif- 
ferent sixes,  to  have  them  vibrate  correctly,  the  smaller  the  guide 
the  more  vibration  required.  But  the  spools  should  be  wound  so 
as  to  have  a  small  rib.  Spools  that  are  wound  smooth  and  even, 
the  threads  are  apt  to  be  overlapped,  and  will  not  wind  off  well 
in  dressing.  A  few  threads  may  be  added  to  patterns  when  being 
dressed  by  winding  them  off  from  bobbins,  and  save  spools  or 
parts  sometimes. 

Tie  in  the  Dresser  (providing  there  was  no  shading.) 
1  thread,  Green,  single, 

Brown,       " 

Drab, 

Orange  and  Blk.  Twist. 

Drab,  single, 

Brown,    " 

Green,      "  J 

76  Threads  in  a  Pattern,  25  Patterns  in  the  Warp. 
The  order  in  which  the  threads  are  tied  in  the  dressing  to  make 
the  shading  as  per  sample.  No.  1. 

1  Thd.  of  Green,  then    1  Thd.  of  Slate  Drab, 

4        "       Brown, 


i        1  Pattern, 
j  Repeat  25  times. 


2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
3 
4 
1 

30     . 


Orange  twist, 
Brown, 


Green, 
and 


1  Pattern. 

gepeat  25 

times. 


I 


.    46  equals  76  threads  1  pattern. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  31 


Answer  to  Questions  lltk  and  \Wi. — We  have  decided  in  our 
previous  drafting,  that  10  harness  will  be  required  to  make  the 
goods  same  as  sample,  5  harness  for  Herringbone  and  5  harness 
for  Doeskin. 

We  will  decide  the  number  of  Heddles  to  put  on  each  shaft  of 
the  harness,  the  50  green,  the  1300  brown  and  50  threads  of  orange 
twist  are  to  be  used  on  one  set  of  5  harness,  the  Doeskin ;  the  500 
threads  drab  are  to  be  used  on  one  set  of  5  Harness  for  Herring- 
bone. The  Doeskin  is  all  straight  drawing,  (that  is)  the  threads 
are  drawn  separately  one  in  a  heddle,  one  on  each  Harness  one 
after  the  other  successively,  so  that  we  require  the  same  number 
of  Heddles  on  each  of  the  5  Harness.  Thus  we  have  1400  threads 
to  be  used  on  5  harness,  gives  us  280  for  each  harness,  consequent- 
ly we  shall  require  280  .Heddles  on  each  shaft.  We  have  500 
threads  to  be  used  on  5  Harness  for  the  Herringbone,  and  these 
we  have  found  (from  the  cross  drawing  as  before  explained),  are 
to  be  drawn  into  the  Heddles,  10  straight  through,  5  twice  over 
same  as  Doeskin,  and  10  backwards,  5  twice  through,  so  that  in 
reality,  one  thread  is  used  in  each  Heddle,  and  on  each  harness, 
successively;  consequently  we  will  divide  the  500  threads  to  be 
used,  by  the  5  Harness  to  be  used,  and  we  get  100  as  the  number 
of  Heddles  for  each  shaft  of  Herringbone.  There  are  usually  a 
few  extra  heddles  put  on  each  shaft. 

And  we  will  make  a  Diagram  for  the  number  of  Harness  to  be 
used,  number  of  Heddles  for  each  Harness,  and  the  manner  in 
which  the^ threads  are  to  be  drawn  in. 

DIAGRAM  _*?  100 

No.  5. 


100   I 
TOO  f  Herringbone. 


280  >  Doeskin. 


2 
FRONT. 


The  figures  100  and  280,  indicate  the  number  of  Heddles  re- 
quired for  each  harness  for  the  Harness  builder.  Each  horizon- 
tal line  indicating  one  Harness,  the  angular  lines  crossing  them 


32  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

indicate  the  drawing  of  the  threads  into  the  harness.  And  when 
running  towards  a  right  angle,  indicate  straight  drawing.  And 
when  running  a  left  angle,  indicate  a  back  draw,  same  as  right 
hand  side  of  Herringbone.  The  one  who  draws  in  would  read 
the  above  above  as  follows  : 

1  thread  of  green  and  26  of  brown,  or  27  threads  on  the  first 
set  of  5  harness,  which  is  the  doeskin  straight  through  ;  then  10 
threads  on  the  second  set  of  5  harness  which  is  the  herringbone, 
(5  threads  twice  through  ;)  then  2  twist  threads  on  the  first  or 
doeskin  set,  p.itting  them  in  the  heddles  next  after  where  we  left  off 
with  the  brown ;  then  10  threads  on  the  second  set  for  the  her- 
ringbone, commencing  with  the  back  or  5th  harness  and  draw 
backwards  5  threads  twice  through,  then  the  20  threads  of  brown 
and  1  thread  of  green  on  the  doeskin  set,  commencing  with  the 
next  harness  where  we  left  off  with  the  twist  threads,  and  we  have 
one  pattern  of  76  threads  drawn  into  the  heddles  and  harness  cor- 
rectly, to  be  repeated  till  all  are  drawn  in.  By  refering  to  dia- 
gram 5,  it  will  be  easily  seen  that  the  two  twist  threads  are  to 
pass  between  the  points  of  the  herringbone,  (as  the  doeskin  set  is 
in  front),  which  are  separated  a  little. 

The  same  style  diagram  would  answer,  supposing  we  were  to 
use  more  harness  and  cross  draw  and  take  different  harness ;  it 
will  be  found  more  safe  to  make  a  diagram  of  similar  design,  when 
any  cross  drawing  or  skipping  is  required,  so  that  mistakes  may 
be  avoided.  In  this  case,  each  harness  of  the  doeskin  works 
alike,  so  that  by  drawing  right  along  straight  through  one  thread 
in  each  heddle  and  on  each  shaft  respectively,  the  weaving  will 
be  right. 

REEDING. 

After  the  warp  has  been  drawn  into  the  heddles,  we  must  then 
draw  it  into  a  reed.  Suppose  we  wish  to  put  our  warp  of  1900 
ends  into  a  reed  with  5  in  each  dent  and  wigh  to  set  the  warp  in 
the  loom  35  inches  wide.  We  will  first  divide  the  1900  by  the 
5  threads  per  dent,  and  that  quotient  by  the  desired  width,  and 
determine  the  reed  required. 

Threads  in  dent,  5)1900  ends  in  the  warp. 
Width  in  Loom,  35)380  dents  required. 
10   size  of  the  reed. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  33 

As  there  are  no  reeds  made  of  such  a  size,  and  as  it  is  almost  a 
11  reed  \ve  will  say  in  a  11  reed,  and  will  decide  just  how  wide 
the  cloth  will  be  iu  the  loom,  providing  we  use  a  11  reed. 

Dents  per  1  inch,  11)380  dents  required. 

34T6T  inches  wide  in  the  loom.  » 

So  that  in  a  11  reed  the  cloth  would  be  over  34£  inches,  if  we 
would  prefer  to  have  it  over  35  inches  than  under,  by  using  a  lOf 
reed  we  should  produce  35^  inches  wide,  or  if  in  each  inch  of  the 
35  we  should  put  in  one  of  the  dents  4  threads,  we  should  get  35 
threads  in  the  whole  width,  with  5  in  a  dent  would  'give  7  dents, 
which  with  the  34T\  will  bring  it  to  a  little  over  35  inches  wide. 


HARNESS    CHAIN. 

For  building  the  harness  chain,  we  will  give  a  copy  of  the  draft 
as  we  found  it  in  our  drafting  from  the  sample,  and  will  be  the 
same  us  Diagrams  1  and  3  combined,  (with  the  Diagram  1  to  the 
front),  and  we  will  make  a  copy  upon  design  paper  for  the  chain 
builder,  and  be  careful  to  avoid  wrong  copying ;  put  the  word 
"  front''  under  the  Diagram  as  it  should  be  (for  a  right  or  left 
twill,  &c.,)  so  that  the  builder  may  know  how  to  hang  his  chain 
on  the  right  or  left  hand  loom,  as  it  may  happen  Give  the  boss 
weaver  instructions  as  to  the  picks  wanted,  the  lot  the  filling  was 
made  from,  and  be  careful  to  notice  whether  the  cloth  is  being 
woven  as  ordered,  and  answers  all  purposes.  Will  propose  40 
picks  per  inch  of  2?  run  yarn,  one  shuttle  woi-k,*and  the  summary 
will  read  as  follows  : 

Style  No.  1,  5  Harness  shaded  striped  Doeskin  for  ground 
weave  combined  with  a  5  harness  herringbone  stripe,  10  Bolts,  20 
drab  threads  for  the  herringbone,  2  orange  and  black  twist  threads 
pass  through  its  center. 

25  Patterns  in  the  goods,  Warp  1900  ends  of  4  run  single  yarn, 
(except  50  of  twist),  Filling  40  picks  of  2|  run  single  yarn,  5 
threads  in  a  dent  in  a  11  Eeed,  34T6i  inches  wide  in  the  loom,  to 
weigh  about  114-  ounces  from  loom. 


34  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

HINTS  ON  LAYING  OUT  STOCK,  &c. 

We  will  proceed  to  lay  out  the  stock,  putting  in  the  same  per- 
centage of  each  quality,  &c.,  as  we  have  previously  proposed.  Say 
lay  out  for  about  40  pieces.  We  wish  the  cloth  to  come  about  30 
yards  from  looms,  so  that  for  dressing  we  will  calculate  on  about 
an  average  of  33  yards  for  each  piece.  The  3  yards  difference  is 
caused  by  the  taking  up  of  the  yarn  in  process  of  the  weaving,  as 
taking  in  between  the  warp  threads,  some  40  or  more  threads  of 
filling  to  each  inch  used,  there  must  be  more  or  less  taken  up. 
40  pieces  of  33  yards  each  gives  1320  yards,  as  the  total  yards 
required.  With  the  usual  calculations  for  taking  up  in  process 
of  weaving,  and  the  allowance  for  the  waste  of  stock  in  process 
of  manufacturing,  we  have  to  use  about  13  ounces  for  the  weight 
of  1  yard.  1320  yards  at  13  ounces  gives  17100  ounces — 1074fts. 
as  the  clean  or  actual  pounds  of  stock  required  for  the  40  pieces 
of  33  yards  each,  and  the  several  percentages  of  the  different 
qualities  of  wool  with  waste,  were  as  follows: 

w          j  96  pr.  ct.  of  4th  quality  Fleece,  279ft>s.  clean,  430  tbs.  in  the  grease. 
'arp'    (  20  pr.  ct.  of  4th  quality  Cal.,      215"        " 

(  18  pr.  ct.  of  3d  quality  Fleece,  198fr"        " 
Filling.  1  18  pr.  ct.  of  Extra  Pulled,        193£"        " 

(  18  pr.  ct.  of  Waste,      .     .     .    193£"        " 


10741t)S.  Proof. 


We  will  fill  in  the  pounds  of  stock  of  each  of  the  above  quali- 
ties as  follows :— Total  pounds  required  1074,  of  which  26  per  ct. 
is  4th  quality  Fleece,  and  that  percentage  of  the  total  pounds 
must  be  the  pounds  wThich  will  be  required  of  that  quality. 


EXAMPLE. 


1074R)s.  10741bs. 

26  pr.  ct.  20  pr.  ct. 

279ift>s.  of  4th  quality  Fleece.          2151t>s.  4th  quality  Cal. 

And  so  continue  with  the  filling  qualities,  and  we  get  the 
pounds  of  each  of  the  combinations  of  stock  as  above. 

As  said  before,  the  pounds  of  stock  of  the  several  qualities  as 
filled  in,  are  called  clean  stock  calculations,  so  that  if  we  had 
those  qualities  already  scoured  and  dry,  we  could  commence  and 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  35 

take  the  several  pounds  as  carried  out.  But  we  are  to  suppose  as 
is  generally  the  case,  that  the  wool  part  of  the  combination  will 
have,  to  be  taken  from  the  wool-room  in  the  grease,  and  that  we 
shall  have  to  make  the  calculations  from  what  the  probable  shrink- 
age of  those  qualities  may  be ;  for  the  purpose  of  filling  out  the 
stock  statement,  a  supposition  of  the  probable  shrinkages  of  the 
wool  will  be  given.  (The  calculations  for  shrinkages  will  be 
better  understood,  by  carefully  reading  remarks  under  head  of 
"Remarks  on  Wool,"  Part  Second.)  We  will  say  the  3d  and  4th 
qualities  of  the  fleece  wool  averages  35  per  cent,  shrinkage,  or  loss 
in  scon  ring,  leaving  Golbs.  of  clean  wool  to  the  lOOlbs.  in  the  grease, 
(see  rule  of  wool  shrinkage,  Part  Second,)  so  it  will  be  necessary 
to  take  of  wool  in  the  grease  430 Ibs.  to  get  the  279ft>s.  clean.  The 
California  shrinks  45  per  cent,  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  take 
390fos.  in  the  grease,  to  get  the  2151bs.  clean.  The  3d  quality 
fleece  is  of  the  same  lot  as  the  4th  quality  in  the  warp,  and  shrinks 
35  per  cent,  and  we  will  take  29?lbs.  in  the  grease,  to  get  the 
193fcs.  clean.  The  Extra  Pulled  will  shrink  about  40  per  cent, 
and  we  will  take  321ft>s.  in  the  grease,  to  get  the  1931bs.  clean- 
The  193ft>s.  of  Waste  can  be  put  in  as  it  is,  there  being  no  shrink- 
age. Supposing  these  shrinkages  to  be  the  actual  rate,  we  should 
only  need  to  know  the  cost  in  the  grease,  and  make  out  the  cost 
when  clean,  and  reduce  the  calculations  of  the  relative  weights 
of  the  several  qualities,  to  the  whole  weight  per  yard  in  ounces  and 
fractional  parts,  as  we  observe  the  statement  on  page  23,  answer 
to  Question  8, — and  fill  in  prices  same  as  example,  answer  to 
Question  9,  page  26. 

In  Part  Second  we  will  form  another  example  and  make  out  the 
total  cost  per  yard  for  the  stock,  and  all  other  expenses  which 
arise  in  the  business,  as  they  are  made  out  by  some  of  the  First 
Class  Manufacturers. 


36 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 


DIAGRAMS  FOR  SAMPLES. 


DIAGRAM  FOR  SAMPLE 
No.  8. 


44444   '  sth 

444  4*  7th 

4.  4444  <• 

4444     4444  5tli 

44     4444     44  H 
4444     4444 


4444   444 


No. 

:,/ 

"~44 
F. 


No.  4. 


>  4444 

>44  44 

i 

F. 


No.  S. 
4     444 
44  44 

444     4 


444I]n4  TFace. 

444        4  T     " 

•  •          II  S  Back. 

4444  TFace. 


nan**a  s  Back. 

F. 


No.  10. 


4        4444 

4 

* 


4     '        S 


No.  (.. 

444 

44     4 

4    4 

F. 


No.  11. 

SSSTSS8TSSSTSSST 
***U4444444     4444  T  Face 
4  44        4  44  S  Back. 

44     4444444     44444  s  Face. 
4        44        4  44         s  nark. 

4444444     4444444      T  Face 
44        4  44        4      *  l'..'n-k 

>4444     4444444    4  SFm-r. 
4  44  4         S  Back. 


No.  12. 
STSTSTSTSTST 

4     444     444    44  u'ik.  &'w1iiic  TV 

44        44  IJlii.'. 

>4     444     444  V.'llow  Twi.M. 

4     44  B. 

444  444  44  T. 


4 
444  444 

444  444  44 
4     44    4 
444  444  444 


1!. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  37 

EXPLANATIONS  OF  THE  CLOTH  SAMPLES  AND  THEIR  RESPECTIVE 
DESIGNS. 

NOTE. — As  has  been  previously  mentioned,  the  bottom  line  is 
to  be  the  first  harness,  reading  No.  1,  2,  &c.,  from  the  front  to 
the  top,  and  the  bolts  rim  from  right  to  left,  the  first  bolt  at 
the  right  is  No.  1,  the  next  No.  2,  and  so  on.  When  holding  the 
book  as  when  reading,  the  designs  represent  the  harness  in  a 
loom  when  you  are  standing  at  the  front  of  it;  by  holding  the 
book  sideways,  the  top  towards  the  right,  the  view  then  repre- 
sents the  chain  when  attached  to  the  loom.  If  the  motions  and 
changes  of  a  loom  are  well  understood  (as  they  ought  to  be  by  a 
designer),  by  a  little  practice  in  the  art  of  drafting  and  designing, 
a  person  will  soon  become  as  familiar  with  the  risers  and  sinkers, 
and  the  respective  patterns  they  will  produce,  as  the  musician  is 
familiar  with  the  notes  of  a  piece  of  sheet  music,  and  knows  what 
tune  is  produced  by  them. 

SAMPLE  AND  DESIGN  Nos.  1/2.  Represents  a  combination  weav- 
ing of  aJ5  harness  Doeskin,  and  a  5  harness  Cord.  10  bolts  are 
used  for  weaving  the  Doeskin,  because  10  bolts  are  required  to 
make  the  cord  of  such  a  large  twill ;  10  threads  are  used  to  pro- 
duce the  cord,  5  threads  straight  through  twice.  By  drawing  the 
threads  backwards,  the  same  design  would  make  a  right  twill,  the 
same  drawing  (backward)  would  make  the  Doeskin  a  left  twill, 
and  will  apply  the  same  to  all  tAvills.  Hundreds  of  styles  maybe 
produced  with  a  doeskin  weave  for  ground  Avork,  by  combining 
different  colors  and  shades  of  Cords,  Herringbones,  Feathers, 
Furrows,  &c.  The  warp  contains  1900  ends  of  4  run  yarn.  Fill- 
ing 40  picks  of  2f  run  yarn. 

No.  3.  Represents  a  Cassimere  or  Flannel  twill.  An  endless 
variety  of  styles  plain  or  fancy,  may  be  produced  by  the  chang- 
ing of  colors  and  sizes  of  yarns.  This  weave  is  employed  to  make 
suitings,  flannels,  blankets,  &c. 

No.  4.  Represents  a  Cassimere  with  a  back,  the  face  appears 
the  same  as  No.  3.  But  the  backs  are  different,  every  other  pick 
appearing  upon  the  back.  The  back  pick  is  employed  to  pro- 
duce weight,  and  for  practicing  deception  (sometimes).  This 
pick  is  usually  made  from  coarse  stock.  There  are  no  back 


38  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

warp  threads  in  this  weaving.  Bolts  2,  4,  6  and  8  for  back  pick 
and  the  others  for  face.  The  warp  for  sample  is  8  threads  of  sin- 
gle, and  8  threads  of  double  and  twist  yarn,  dressed  8  and  8,  (8 
single  and  8  twist.)  Twist  a  6  and  7  run  with  18  holes  per  inch 
to  the  right,  1728  threads,  12  reed,  4  in  a  dent,  36  inches  wide 
in  the  loom.  Filling  back  pick  3  runs,  face  pick  4^,  44  pick, <. 
About  9  ozs.  yarn  weight,  11^  to  12  ozs.  from  the  Loom.  Perhaps 
8  harness  would  avoid  crowding  threads,  two,  4  harness,  same 
as  design. 

No.  5.  Represents  a  Hair  Line,  3  harness,  4  bolts,  being  an 
uncommon  and  peculiar  weave.  The  sample  appears  as  though 
coarse  and  inferior  stock  was  employed.  A  very  pretty  hair  line 
could  be  produced  by  using  fine  stock  with  more  threads  for  warp 
and  filling.  The  warp  is  2  and  1,  two  single  threads  and  one 
twist.  Draw  in  the  two  single  on  the  first  and  second  harness 
respectively,  and  the  twist  on  the  third.  The  filling  is  pick  and 
pick,  a  pick  of  single  and  a  pick  of  twist.  Bolt  one  for  single 
pick,  No.  2  for  twist  pick.  6  or  9  Harness  may  be  used  by  hav- 
ing each  three  repeat  those  in  the  design. 

No.  6.  Represents  a  Combination  Weave.  A  floating  rib  with 
a  furrow.  The  weaving  in  the  furrow  is  the  so  called  Elastic 
weave.  In  the  largest  furrow  there  appears  to  be  only  three 
threads,  while  there  are  10  double  and  twist  threads.  Next  to  the 
rib  there  are  4  green  twist  threads,  each  are  on  the  same  shaft  one 
in  each  heddle  respectively,  which  makes  them  appear  as  though 
the  4  were  in  the  same  heddle,  and  they  could  as  well  be  all  drawn 
into  one  heddle.  The  two  brown  twist  are  on  another  shaft,  one 
in  each  heddle  respectively,  then  4  green  twist  threads  same  as 
the  other  green  twist  and  on  the  same  shaft.  In  the  small  fur- 
row there  are  two  brown  twist  threads,  one  twist  on  first  harness, 
the  other  on  the  second.  The  two  first  harness  are  for  furrow, 
and  which  is  a  plain  or  cotton  weave.  More  harness  may  be  used 
if  necessary.  The  3d  and  4th  harness  are  for  the  rib.  Observe  as 
per  design  the  first  pick  (bolt  No.  1),  floats  under  the  rib  and  so 
with  every  other  pick.  It  is  the  pick  which  floats  under  which 
forms  the  rib,  but  the  rib  is  not  formed  till  the  cloth  is  fulled ; 
the  fulling  process  contracts  the  filling  threads,  and  thus  the  float- 
ing pick  throws  up  the  rib.  (Some  ribs  are  produced  by  using 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  39 


twist  yarns  with  single.)     More  harness  may  be  employed  for  the 
rib  as  well  as  the  furrow,  if  required. 

Xo.  7.  Represents  a  Double  and  Twist  Face  with  a  back,  and 
is  made  with  4  harness,  8  bolts.  The  warp  is  all  twist,  the  filling 
is  one  pick  of  twist  and  one  pick  of  single,  the  single  pick  is 
thrown  upon  the  back,  the  twist  upon  the  face.  Bolts  1,  3,  5  and 
7  for  face  twist  pick,  the  others  for  the  single  back  pick.  Some 
of  the  sample  is  intended  to  be  used  for  drafting  or  practicing. 
Cut  off  two  inches  from  the  bottom  of  sample  and  proceed  as  per 
the  previous  instructions.  4  warp  and  8  filling  threads  make  a 
pattern. 

Xo.  8.  Represents  a  Tricot,  usually  called  a  two  and  two,  as 
two  picks  are  used  for  the  back  and  two  for  the  face.  Bolts  1  and 
2  are  for  the  face  picks,  3  and  4  for  the  back  picks,  &c.  The  sam- 
ple is  made  with  about  2400  threads  of  G  run  yarn  for  the  warp, 
and  100  picks  of  filling  per  inch;  the  two  back  picks  are  about 

5  runs,  the  two  face  picks  6  runs.     Perhaps  8  harness  would  be- 
better  than  4.     The  sample  is  a  production  of  the  Lippitt  Woolen 
Co.,  Woon socket,  R.  I. 

No.  9.    Represents  a  small  Basket  Weave,  and  is  a  silk  mixture, 

6  harness  0  bolts.     The  warp  is  two  twist  threads  for  face,  and 
one  single  for  back.     The  single  threads  are  drawn  in  on  the  first 
and  fourth  harness,  and  which  as  per  design  are  down  4  times 
to  twice  up  in  the  6  changes,  and  thus  are  mostly  thrown  on  the 
back,  while  the  two  succeeding  twist  threads  are  up  4  times  to 
twice  down  in  the  six  changes,  and  thus  appear  mostly  upon  the 
face.     The  2d  and  3d  harness  are  alike,  which  makes  those  two 
twist  threads  appear  as  though  they  were  in  the  same.heddle, 
and  which  helps  to  form  the  basket.     The  filling  is  all  twist,  two 
picks  for  face,  one  for  back.     Bolts  one  and  four  for  the  back 
pick,  two  and  three  and  five  and  six  for  face  picks.     One  of  the 
face  picks  are  to  be  a  silk  twist,  as  per  sample;  the  2d  and  oth -picks 
are  silk  twist.     The  2d  and  3d  bolts  are  alike,- and  thus  we  obtain 
two  picks  alike,  and   which  will  be  called   two  picks  in  a  shed. 
And  this  is  the  method  used  for  obtaining  two  or  more  picks  in 
the  same  shed.     By  building  two  or  more  bolts  alike,  the  listings 
which  are  usually  a  plain  weave,  catch  the  filling  at  each  side  so 


40  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


that  any  number  of  picks  may  be  put  in  one  shed.  By  using  dif- 
ferent colors  of  silk,  green,  blue,  &c.,  a  very  desirable  and  good 
looking  fabric  is  produced.  The  sample  is  a  production  of  the 
well  known  Lippitt  Woolen  Co. 

No.  10.  Eepresents  a  nice  Twill  for  coatings  or  suitings,  8  har- 
ness, 16  bolts.  The  sample  warp  is  about  1680  threads  of  6  run 
yarn.  Filling  60  picks  of  5£  run  yarn,  weighs  about  7  ounces 
finished.  For  heavier  weight  use  heavier  yarn  and  more  threads 
in  the  warp,  and  about  the  same  number  of  picks  of  filling,  and 
by  changing  colors,  a  variety  of  desirable  patterns  may  be  made. 

No.  11.  Represents  a  very  nice  Hair  Line  in  heavy  weights, 
8  harness  and  16  bolts.  Warp  is  three  single  threads  and  1  twist. 
The  1st  harness  is  for  a  back  thread,  the  2d  for  a  face,  the  3d  for  a 
back,  the  4th  for  face,  and  is  a  black  and  white  double  and  twist, 
containing  about  24  holes  to  the  inch.  The  filling  is  also  3  single 
and'  1  twist.  The  first  pick  represented  by  the  first  bolt  is  for  the 
twist,  the  three  following  are  single,  the  4th  is  for  twist  and  so  on. 
It  may  be  easily  seen  how  the  twist  thread  in  the  warp,  with 
those  in  the  filling  form  a  line.  Observe  the  twist  thread.  8th 
harness  it  is  up  14  picks  in  16,  and  when  it  is  down  the  twist 
pick  of  filling  passes  over  it,  and  thus  it  is  not  broken. 

When  drafting  patterns  containing  different  colors  and  shades, 
and  single  and  twist  threads,  some  of  which  are  for  back,  some 
for  face,  by  noting  each  color  or  thread  of  warp  and  filling  as  per 
the  design,  it  may  be  easily  observed  how  to  draw  the  threads  into 
the  heddles,  and  how, to  set  the  filling  boxes  to  introduce  the 
right  pick  of  filling,  to  produce  the  pattern.  The  sample  is  from 
a  firmly  Avoven,  well  felted  fabric.  About  2200  threads  in  the 
warp,  with  about  60  picks  of  filling  per  inch. 

No.  12.  Represents  a  Double  and  Twist  face  with  a  back,  12 
harness,  12  Bolts.  The  warp  is  one  single  thread  and  one  twist, 
the  filling  the  same.  The  single  threads  of  both  warp  and  filling 
are  woven  to  appear  upon  tJie  back.  They  each  occasionally  con- 
nect with  the  warp  threads  to  hold  the  face  and  back  together. 
Observe  the  first  harness  motion,  which  carries  a  twist  thread, 
it  appears  up  9  times  in  the  12  changes  of  a  pattern,  and  when  it 
sinks,  a  twist  filling  thread  passes  over  it,  and  thus  the  twist  face 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  41 

remains  unbroken,  and  each  of  the  twist  warp  threads  changes 
the  same.  Observe  also,  when  the  single  picks  of  filling  pass 
through,  most  all  the  warp  twist  threads  are  up  so  that  they  do 
not  appear  upon  the  face.  The  warp  contains  about  1600  threads. 
There  are  about  5-i  picks  of  filling  per  inch.  The  three  last  sam- 
ples are  a  production  of  the  well  known  Edward  Harris,  of  Woon- 
socket,  R.  I. 


Should  any  of  the  subscribers  for  this  work  wish  for  more  light 
or  information  in  relation  to  the  samples,  designs  and  general  in- 
structions as  given  in  this  book,  it  will  be  cheerfully  furnished 
gratis  by  the  author.  And  will  also  draft  any  other  patterns,  &c., 
for  the  small  consideration  of  one  dollar  to  pay  for  time,  &c. 


42  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 


MISCELLANEOUS    DESIGNS. 


The  following  Diagrams  of  Weaves,  are  illustrations  of  actual 
weaving,  by  and  with  which  cloths  have  been  actually  made  by 
the  contributor.  (No  imaginary  weaves,  or  imaginary  rules 
for  making  cloths  are  here  given.)  And  with  the  explanations  of 
yarns  to  be  used,  and  the  general  instructions  as  given,  a  chain 
can  be  built  from  them  for  weaving  the  goods  for  which  they  are 
intended. 


«• 


4  Harness,  8  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  1,  is  what  is  called  a  Plain  Weave;  the  same  number  of 
threads  appear  above  the  filling,  as  also  under  the  filling  at  each 
change  of  the  harness.  No  definite  number  of  harness,  or  liolts 
need  to  be  mentioned,  only  that  they  will  have  to  be  in  even  num- 
bers, as  2,  4,  6,  8,  and  so  on.'  An  endless  variety  of  goods  are 
made  with  this  simple  weave,  by  making  changes  in  colors  of  the 
warp  and  filling.  We  get  flannels,  blankets,  and  even  fancy 
plaids,  &c. 

No.  2.  No.  3. 


DfflD 

3  Harness.  3  Bolts. 

FRONT. 

DIAGS.  2  and  3,  are  3  Harness  Twills.  Diagram  2d,  represents 
that  two  thirds  of  the  warp  is  above  the  filling,  consequently,  two 
thirds  of  the  filling  is  under  the  warp.  A  very  good  Broad  cloth 
can  be  made  with  this  weave.  Have  3080  ends  of  4£  runs,  with 
48  picks  of  5  run  filling,  19  reed,  2  in  a  dent,  -80  inches  wide  in 
the  loom,  weight  about  16  ounces;  or  have  the  same  ends  in  the 
warp  of  5  runs,  filling  5|  runs,  and  GO  picks,  weight  about  16£ 
ozs.  from  loom.  Weave  white  and  piece  dye.  Diagram  3d,  rep- 
resents that  two  thirds  of  the  warp  is  under  the  filling;  conse- 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  43 

qucntly,  two  thirds  of  filling  is  above  the  warp,  and  is  a  good 
weave  for  a  cotton  warp  Kentucky  Jean  ;  the  most  of  the  warp 
being  upon  the  back.  Jeans  are  not  finished,  all  that  process 
being  done  in  the  loom.  Weave,  say  about  the  width  wanted, 
take  to  finishing  room,  roll  on  a  round  iron,  slip  the  iron  out 
when  rolled,  and  ship  to  market.  Good  oil  is  generally  used  on 
the  stock,  so  as  not  to  give  them  an  offensive  smell.  Many  other 
goods  are  made  on  3  harness,  such  as  water  proofs,  herringbone 
twills,  &c.  To  make  a  herringbone  on  3  harness,  requires  rather 
too  much  cross  drawing,  and  mixing  threads. 

No.  4. 

nnnsnffi 


3  Harness,  6  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


DIAG.  4.    Makes  a  good  weaving  for  spring  light  weight  goods. 


No.  5. 

sn 


3  Harness,  14  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


DIAG.  5.     Makes  a  good  cross  Cord. 


No.  6. 

aoomm 


Harness,  6  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


DIAG.  6.    With  warp  one  color,  have  filling  pick  and  pick,  and 
we  get  a  very  pretty  pattern. 


No.  7. 

onnn 
•»+*«• 


4  Harness,    8  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


DIAG.  7.  A  Kersey  Weave  with  2  picks  in"  a  shade.  The 
read  will  observe  how  two  picks  in  a  shade  are  obtained.  As 
there  are  two  bolts  built  alike,  and  as  each  bolt  in  the  chain  indi- 
cates one  pick  of  the  filling  :  If  we  have  two  bolts  in  succession 


44  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

2  exactly  alike,  we  must  necessarily  get  two  picks  of  filling  exact- 
ly alike,  and  consequently  two  picks  in  the  same  shed.  And  our 
listings  which  are  usually  on  separate  harness,  and  which  are  plain 
weaves.  They  change  at  each  pick,  and  thus  hold  the  filling  at 
each  side  of  the  pick  ;  with  a  twist  warp  a  very  heavy  and  sub- 
stantial cloth  can  be  made.  The  following  will  make  a  very  desir- 
able pattern.  Warp  1600  ends  of  two  twist  threads,  one  a  black 
and  7  runs,  and  a  white  9  runs  twisted,  the  other  an  orange  7  runs, 
and  a  black  8  runs  twisted.  Dress  a  thread  of  one  tAvist,  then  a 
thread  of  the  other.  Filling  all  single  black  or  brown  3^  or  4 
runs,  from  40  to  50  picks;  draw  straight  through,  12|  reed,  4  in 
a  dent,  about  34  inches  wide.  The  colors  of  yarn  can  be  changed 
in  the  warp  and  filling,  and  a  variety  of  patterns  made.  Perhaps 
8  harness  would  be  better  than  4,  (say  repeat  the  4  in  diagram,) 
as  the  threads  would  be  someAvhat  crowded  on  4  harness. 


mmmammma 

4  Harness,  8  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  8.  Represents  a  Broken  Twill,  and  which  makes  a  cloth 
which  resembles  a  plain  weave,  and  is  quite  as  good  a  weave  as 
can  be  produced  for  making  a  light  weight.  By  using  drop  boxes, 
and  various  colors,  any  style  plaids  can  be  obtained,  or  any  style 
fancies  or  shaded  plaids  and  stripes  ;  or  for  obtaining  a  velvet 
finish  where  a  plaid  or  shaded  stripe  is  wanted.  To  make  heavy 
weights,  there  would  have  to  be  used  some  double  and  twist  yarn. 


DIAG.  9.  Represents  a  very  good  weaving  for  a  double  and 
twist  broken  hair  line,  and  makes  a  substantial  piece  of  cloth,  as 
well  as  a  pretty  pattern.  The  following  makes  a  very  good  style. 
Warp  1700  ends,  2  black  single  threads  4  runs  each,  and  one  twist, 
(a  black  7  runs,  a  white  8  runs.)  Dress  2  black  single  and  1  twist, 
filling  one  black  and  white  twist  threads  same  as  warp  ;  one  black 
thread  2£  runs,  and  one  black  thread  4£  runs  ;  the  black  filling 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  45 


thread  2£  run  goes  on  the  back,  the  other  two  on  the  face,  say  1 
pick  of  twist,  1  pick  of  back  2-|  runs,  1  pick  black  44-  runs,  then 
the  2?  again  —  requiring  three  shuttles,  put  in  about  60  picks,  per- 
haps 8  harness  (two  4  harness  same  as  diagram)  would  crowd 
the  threads  less. 

No.  10. 

+*  *  -*an 

4        4  +    4 

U*44i;.    •    4 

aaomammm 

4  Harness.  8  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  10.    Represents  a  Tricot  weaving,  with  one  pick  face  and 
one  pick  upon  the  back,  and  is  called  a  very  good  weave. 

No.  11. 

aamammmn 
HBDnnnnnn 

naammmam 


4  Harness,  8  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  11.    Represents  a   Broken  Crossing,  and  makes  a  very 
pretty  figure  pattern. 

No.  12. 

44  •••  4   444    *  ••• 

444  444     •  444    4  •** 
444  444  •**    •  •••    • 

*  ***  ^**  ,:;..:*•.***'..-'.*  4-4^ 

4  Harness,  23  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  12.    Represents  a  Cross  Rib  design,  and  makes  a  very 
good  rib  across  the  piece. 

No.   13. 

•    +++*• 
••    •    ••• 


4     4 
4444444    4 

5  Harness,  10  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  13.  Represents  a  Cord  with  a  recess,  and  is  only  intend- 
ed to  be  used  in  combination  with  another  weave  (for  the  ground 
work).  As  you  will  observe  every  other  pick  of  the  filling  passes 
under  without  weaving  into  the  threads  of  the  diagram,  and  that 
thread  which  floats  under  makes  the  cord,  and  the  next  pick  will 
make  a  little  recess.  The  process  of  fulling  is  what  makes  the 


46  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

cord,  as  that  pick  which  passes  under  will  full  and  shorten  in 
length  and  thus  raise  up  the  cord,  and  that  is  the  principle  of  all 
ribs  and  cords,  as  a  general  rule,  the  floating  threads  shorten  in 
fulling  and  thus  raise  the  warp  producing  the  rib  or  cord.  So  that 
we  must  necessarily  have  another  weave  for  the  ground  work 
between  our  cord  or  rib. 

No.  14. 

DSD****** 

**    *    **** 

****    *    ** 

******    * 

******* 

5  Harness,  9  Bolts. 

FRONT. 

DIAU.  14.  Represents  a  Raised  Feather,  and  is  only  intended  to 
be  used  in  combination  with  another  weave,  and  by  drawing 
straight  through  we  get  a  twilled  cord,  and  by  drawing  through 
and  back  same  as  for  herringbone  we  obtain  a  raised  rib  with  a 
point,  and  is  very  much  the  same  as  a  feather,  and  something 
like  a  herringbone. 


•       ***** 
••       •       ••• 

****       •       • 

*****       • 

5  Harne>*.  10  Bolt*. 

FRONT. 

DIAG.  15.  Represents  a  Twill  something  like  a  cassimere  when 
the  threads  are  drawn  straight  through,  and  with  threads  drawn 
through  and  back  produces  a  feather  something  like  herring- 
bone in  sample  of  cloth  only  it  will  make  a  coarser  twill  ;  with  10 
threads  say  5  drawn  straight  through  and  5  backward.*,  we  obtain 
a  small  very  good  styled  feather,  and  by  using  more  threads  same 
as  explained  for  herringbone  we  can  make  a  feather  stripe  of  any 
size.  When  used  for  a  feathered  stripe,  it  should  be  combined 
with  another  weave  say  a  tiger  or  a  doeskin. 


•  **** 
****  • 
**  *** 
***** 

6  Harness,   6  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  47 

DIAG.  16.  Represents  a  Doeskin ;  the  same  calculations  for 
warp  and  filling  as  we  found  in  the  sample  of  cloth  on  page  5 
would  answer  and  make  a  good  cloth,  and  in  fact  there  would  not 
he  much  if  any  difference  in  the  goods.  We  could  not  make  the 
sample  with  six  harness  as  the  chain  would  not  come  right  in  the 
combination.  "We  wish  to  make  a  5  harness  10  bolt  herringbone, 
and  we  can  combine  a  5  harness  doeskin  with  it  as  we  can  use  10 
bolts  as  well  as  5.  But  in  a  six  harness  doeskin  we  cannot  use 
10  bolts,  must  have  6,  12,  18  and  so  on.  As  was  said  before  we 
must  have  the  chain  for  each  weave  of  a  combination  same  length. 


No.  17. 


sssonn 

6  Harness,  6  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  17.  Represents  a  weaving  for  a  Coarse  Twill.  Have  a  warp 
of  about  1600  ends,  with  one  twist  thread  and  one  single,  with 
filling  one  color,  and  put  in  from  40  to  50  picks,  and  it  will  make 
a  twill  with  about  10  to  the  inch.  This  calculation  is  for  a  light 
weight;  for  heavy  weight,  increase  warp  threads  to  about  2000, 
with  same  number  of  picks  of  filling,  of  from  4^  to  5  run  yarn. 


6  Harness,   6  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  18.  Represents  a  very  good  Twill.  Have  a  warp  of  abont 
1600  ends  all  twist,  which  may  be  black  and  white,  brown  and 
white,  drab  and  white,  or  any  twist  desired.  Have  the  single 
threads  for  the  twist  about  7  runs  each  ;  have  the  filling  one  color 
single  yarn,  either  a  drab,  brown  or  black,  about  3  runs.  12  reed, 
4  in  a  dent,  33^  inches  wide.  Perhaps  12  harness  would  avoid 
crowding  the  threads  ;  two  6  harness  same  as  the  diagram,  put  in 
from  45  to  50  picks,  makes  a  substantial  cloth  for  weaving,  and  a 
very  pretty  pattern,  and  weighs  about  12  ounces  from  the  loom. 


48  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


Xo.  19. 

444444444444  4      4    . 

44444444     4  4     4444 

4444     4      4  44444444 

\     *     "*"« 


444444444444     4 

UD**4444444444    '.  4  : 

6  Harness,  24  Bolts. 

FRONT. 

DIAG.  19.  Represents  a  weaving  for  a  Raised  Feather,  to  be  used 
in  combination  with  another  weave  for  the  ground  work. 
Would  look  well  with  a  tiger  weave  or  doeskin,  and  for  the  feather 
we  should  want  at  least  12  threads  for  a  small  one,  and  more 
threads  for  a  larger  one,  and  would  require  a  drawing  same  as  for 
herringbones,  say  6  threads  straight  through  and  6  threads  back- 
wards. Threads  for  feathers  and  herringbones  usually  require 
a  single  yarn,  unless  we  wish  to  raise  them  considerable,  when  a 
twist  thread  will  do  better;  and  for  the  feather  in  this  case,  use 
twist  yarn  all  one  color  or  more  than  one,  as  you  may  desire. 

No.  20. 


444   4     4   444  4 
44  444    4    444  444 
!  444  444  444  444 
4   444  444  444   4 


6  Harness,  24  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  20.  Represents  a  good  Zig  Zag  pattern  ;  can  be  used  in  a 
combination  or  alone;  makes  a  very  pretty  and  rather  an  odd 
pattern,  and  I  think  it  is  the  only  pattern  of  the  kind  that  has  ever 
before  been  printed  for  the  public,  as  it  is  an  original  weaving  for 
this  country,  having  lately  come  from  Scotland.  Warp  yarn  for 
this  weaving  would  make  the  best  appearance,  dressed  6  and  G 
or  8  and  8,  (i.  e)  6  of  one  color  with  G  of  another,  or  8  of  one 
color  and  8  of  another.  Filling  of  one  color,  or  more,  or  same  as 
the  warp. 


44        44 

44        44    ,  -'.'I 


• 

6  Harness,  9  Bolts. 
FRONT.  ' 


DIAG.  21.  Represents  a  very  good  Tricot  for  fine  stock,  and 
makes  a  splendid  weave  for  a  silk  mixture  ;  have  the  silk  in  the 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  49 


warp  and  we  have  2  picks  for  back  arid  1  for  face.  Bolts  1,  3, 
4,  6,  7  and  9  for  face;  bolts  2,  5  and  8  for  back,  and  in  which  case 
we  can  have  two  five  picks  for  face  and  one  coarse  for  back. 


No.  22. 

mmomamao 

*        44iDS 

***    -  * 

•'.I'    •    4-     *** 
44     4     4 
4        44     4 

" 


8  Harness,  8  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  22.  Represents  a  very  good  Tricot,  and  for  a  piece  of 
goods  of  fine  stock,  it  makes  rather  more  of  a  distinct  figure  than 
the  preceding  ;  although  either  are  about  as  good  as  can  be  made. 
This  is  woven  pick  and  pick,  a  pick  for  face,  and  a  pick  for  the 
back.  Bolts  1,  3,  5  and  7  for  back,  the  others  for  face.  The  sam- 
ple which  the  writer  has  which  was  made  by  the  above  weave,  is  a 
middle  blue,  (i.  e.,  not  a  very  dark  nor  yet  a  very  light  shade), 
and  is  the  best  I  ever  saw. 


]*.   * 

*****    *    *****   M 

*    *****  '        ***** 

**  44444     4-    !4>4 

4444-    \*     *****   '         * 

*****  *****     * 

C1LK>4444     4     4444* 


8  Harness,  l(j  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  23.  Represents  a  very  good,  weave  for  showing  as  though 
made  from  all  double  and  twist,  and  which  has  a  face  and  back, 
the  backing  not  showing  upon  the  face,  and  gives  a  chance  to  use 
a  coarse  stock  for  the  back  filling;  the  face  shows  a  fine  twill.  The 
following  will  make  a  very  good  piece  of  cloth:  Warp  1840  ends, 
13^  reed,  4  in  a  dent,  34  inches  wide,  single  5  run  yarn,  slate,.  drab 
or  a  brown  dl'ab.  Filling,  one  thread  a  twist,  made  from  a  tan 
drab  G^  runs,  and  a  stone  drab  6-^;  the  other  filling  thread  a  light 
mixture  2^  runs  for  the  back,  wove  pick  and  pick,  2  shuttles,  about 
60  picks;  bolts  1,  3,  5,  7,  9,  11,  13  and  15  back  picks,  the  others 
for  face  twist  thread., 
7 


50  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 


No.  24, 


iaSanaii 

8  Harness,   8  Bolts. 


DIAG.  24.  Eepresents  a  weave  commonly  called  a  tiger,  and  is 
a  very  good  plan  for  making  plaids  ;  shows  a  plain  face,  and  has 
a  coarse  back.  Ariy  styled  plaid  can  be  made,  or  a  very  good 
looking  plain  cloth,  or  a  mixture.  Weave,  pick  and  pick,  a  coarse 
pick  for  back  and  a  fine  pick  for  the  face  ;  bolts  2,  4,  6  and  8  for 
back  pick,  the  others  for  face.  For  plaiding,  dress  the  warp  with 
colors  arranged  as  desired,  and  arrange  the  colors  in  the  face  pick 
for  the  filling  part. 


DL 
•  • 


8  Harness,   8  Bolt§. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  25.  Represents  another  tiger  weave,  and  is  woven  pick 
and  pick,  fine  pick  for  face  with  a  coarse  for  back,  and  will  make 
a  very  good  plain  silk  mixture;  have  the  silk  twisted  with  the 
face  pick  of  filling:  also  a  variety  of  patterns  can  be  made  with 
this  weaving,  by  dressing  the  warp  with  some  twist  threads,  say  4 
threads  single  black,  brown,  or  a  mixture,  and  two  threads  of  black 
and  white,  brown  and  white,  brown  and  olive,  or  any  desired 
twist;  have  filling  5  single  and  one  twist,  same  colors  as  for  warp, 
and  we  get  a  small  pretty  check  pattern  ;  bolts  1,  3,  5  and  7  back 
pick,  the  others  for  face. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  51 


8  Harness,  8  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


DIAG.  26.  Represents  a  Doeskin  weaving.  By  dressing  warp  2 
and  1,  say  2  light  mix  and  1  bine  threads,  and  2  black  and  1  blue, 
Ave  get  a  very  good  diagonal. 


8  Harness,  16  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  27.  Represents  a  weaving  that  will  make  a  very  fancy 
black  and  white  pattern,  or  a  black  and  olive,  or  a  black  and  blue. 
Dress  warp  8  black  and  8  white  single  threads,  making  16  threads, 
have  two  threads  in  each  heddle  or  on  each  shaft;  filling,  8  and 
8.  same  as  warp,  16  threads  and  2  picks  in  a  shade  ;  the  above  dress- 
ing and  weaving  makes  a  large  figure.  Dress  16  black  and  16 
white  for  warp,  have  filling  16  black  and  16  white,  and  a  larger 
figure  is  obtained. 


No.  28. 


*   *^.":**'-~ 

BiDDDSDHO 

8  Harness,  8  Bolts. 

FRONT. 


DIAG.  28.  Represents  a  good  Chinchilla  weaving;  they  are  al- 
ways made  double  width.  Warp  about  3000  ends  about  5  or  6 
runs  fine  and  white,  (some  are  made  with  white  cotton  warps, 
though  they  are  not  so  nice  and  will  not  bring  the  price  of  wool 


52  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

Avarps  in  the  market),  woven  pick  and  pick,  the  back  filling  from 
3  to  4  runs  white,  the  face  filling  from  1  to  H  runs,  and  very 
slack  twisted,  put  in  from  80  to  100  picks  to  the  inch,  and  have 
cloth  weigh  about  2  pounds  per  yard  double  width.  Cloth  will 
not  want  to  be  woven  much  wider  than  the  finished  width  required, 
as  they  do  not  want  only  a  little  fulling.  The  peculiar  finish  is 
obtained  by  a  machine  made  purposely  for  finishing  them.  They 
are  made  of  various  colors  and  shades,  and  some  white.  All  the 
coloring  required  is  for  the  face  pick  of  filling.  Bolts  1,  3,  5  and 
7  are  for  face  picks,  the  others  for  back  picks,  straight  drawing. 


T 


8  Harness,  16  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  29.  Eepresents  a  good  Aveave  for  a  double  and  tAvist  face 
with  a  coarse  back,  and  is  intended  for  backing  threads  in  Avarp 
as  well  as  back  filling.  The  folloAving  Avill  make  a  good  looking 
cloth :  Warp  1632  ends,  12  reeds,  4  in  a  dent,  34  inches  Avide, 
dressed  1  and  1,  one  twist  (made  from  an  olive  brown  8  runs  and 
a  black  8  runs),  the  other  single  black  4  runs.  Filling,  one  twist 
thread  same  as  for  Avarp,  the  other  single  black  about  2£  or  3  runs 
for  the  back ;  the  tAvist  threads  in  both  the  Avarp  and  filling  are 
for  the  face,  the  single  threads  of  each  for  back.  Bolts  2,  4,  6,  8, 
10,  12,  14  and  16  for  back  filling,  the  others  for  the  face.  Har- 
ness 2,  4,  6  and  8  for  the  twist  thread  of  face  of  warp,  the  others 
for  the  black  single  threads.  Commence  to  draw  in  Avith  black 
on  first  harness,  next  twist  and  so  on.  Put  in  about  48  picks. 


•  •••  •••  ••• 

•  •••     •••  ••• 


•••  •• 

•••     •••     •>• 

9  Harness,  30  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTUREE.  53 


DIAG.  30.  Represents  a  Twill  weave  design,  and  will  produce 
a  large  distinct  twill,  by  dressing  the  warp  12  threads  of  double 
and  twist,  two  8  runs  twisted  (either  black  and  dark  green,  red 
brown,  and  green,  or  black  and  brown),  and  24  threads  black  sin- 
gle, 4  runs,  with  about  1044  ends,  and  have  the  filling  all  one  color 
or  more  than  one  of  '3^  runs,  50  picks  per  inch,  with  yarn  in  the 
warp  as  above  mentioned;  the  twills  will  be  about  one-eighth  of  I 
an  inch  apart  or  8  twills  per  inch.  The  filling  might  be  coarse 
and  fine  with  the  coarse  upon  the  back,  as  every  other  bolt  2,  4, 
6,  &c.,  weave  more  upon  the  back  than  face." 

No.  31. 

44  "44  4444      44444444    44  44 
44  44  44  4444 44444444    44 
44  44  44  44  4444      44444444 
4    44  44  44  44  4444      4444444 

4444    44  44  44  44  4444      4444 

4444444    44  44  44  44  4444      4 

44444444  44  44  44  44  4444 

1 


10  Harness,  30  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  31.  Represents  another  Twill,  and  will  not  be  quite  as 
large  as  the  preceding  twill,  and  would  make  a  very  good  coating 
similar  to  some  of  the  Lippitt  coatings.  In  the  sample  the  draft 
was  taken  from  the  warp  and  was  all  double  and  twist,  and  the  face 
pick  of  filling  was  also  twist,  with  two  single  upon  the  back. 
Bolts  2,  3,  5  and  6,  &c.,  are  for  back  picks,  the  others  for  face. 


•• 

^44*  4^**4     4  > 

44444  444447    4  4  44444444 
4    44444  44444     •»  4  4444444 
444    44444  ^44444     444144444 
44444    44444  44444     44  444 
4444444    44444  44444     4  44 
44444444   44444'  44444  :i  4u4 
4  44444444    44444  44444:  L4 
4  4  44444444    44444  44444 
4  4  44444444    44444Z44444 
14  Harness,  US  Bolts. 
FRONT. 

DIAG.  32.  Represents  a  Diagonal  and  will  make  a  large  diago- 
nal line  with  two  smaller  between,  with  a  white  warp  and  black 
filling,  would  make  a  very  pretty  black  and  white  diagonal.  A 


54  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

plaid  may  be  made  with  a  black  ground  work  and  have  the  plaid 
white,  with  a  thread  of  green  or  red  each  side  of  the  white,  and 
the  white  would  also  show  diagonal  lines  of  black. 


>   *   *   •••••* 

::*   L*7   ******  **** 
•"Tor"*   ********* 
*   *   ******  ** 
•   •   •   ••**•*  * 

^***5un*qab*qc  ****** 

*  ******  77jn*nnD*anD***** 
••  ••••••   •   *   •••• 

***  ******   *   *   *** 

****7******     *     *     ** 
*****  •••>•• 
******  ****** 
******  ****** 
******  •••*••     •     • 
•*••••  ••••••     *     * 

•  •••••*  ••••*•     * 
•     ******  •••••*     * 

•     •••*••  ••*•••     * 

•  *•••**  +•••>+     4. 

•*•••*  •••*•• 

=s3fcpm::»*«:::. 

•  •       ••••••  •>•••• 

24  Harness,  24  Bolts. 
FROST. 

DIAG.  33.  Represents  a  Raised  Rib  Diagonal  design,  and  will 
make  two  distinct  ribs,  with  a  space  as  wide  as  the  two  ribs  occupy- 
between  them;  the  space  between  the  ribs  will  show  most  all  fill- 
ing, while  the  warp  will  make  the  ribs. 

No.  34. 

*****    *      •      • 


*     *     * 

•     • 


**    *       *       *    ••• 

*  ****  *   *****  **   * 
•••••   *  •••••  *   *   * 

•  •       •    ••••* 

••••  •   ••••*  **   *   * 

•••   •  •••••  *   *   *   ** 

•       •    ••••*    * 

*  *   *****  **   *   *   *** 

*  *****  *   *   *   ••••• 


*****  **   *   *   ****  * 

*****  *   *   *   *****   * 

•    *••*•    *      * 

••••  **   *   *   ••••  •   • 

***  *   *   *   *****   *  ** 

*  **   *   *   ••••  •   •••• 

*   *   *   •••••   •  ••••• 

*****    *      *      * 
>   *   •   ••••  •   *****  • 

•   ••*••   •  *••••  * 

••M  Harness,  ->-l  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


55 


DIAG.  34.  Represents  a  large  Diagonal  Rib  with  a  small  cord 
1  >et  ween.  By  having  the  warp  and  filling  one  black  twist,  and 
two  blue  single  each,  a  handsome  pattern  is  produced;  have  the 
black  twist  coarse,  say  two  three  runs  twisted,  dress  the  warp  2 
and  1,;  2  blue  single  and  one  twist,  draw  the  2  blue  on  the  first 
and  second  harness,  Avith  the  twist  on  the  3d  and  so  on.  Bolts  1. 
4,  7.  10  and  so  on  for  black  twist,  the  others  for  the  blue  single. 


No.  35. 


4th  Weave 

of  the 
Combination. 

12  Harness. 


4  444     4            4 

4  4     444            4         ~.    3d  Set. 

4  4     444           4        3    2d  Set. 

4  444     4           4 


^  ^     4^  4 

•  44     444 

DDDSC  "     4  444     4 


4  8  12 
3  7  11 
2  6  10 
1  5  9 


4  8  12 
3  7  11 
2  6  10 
1  5  9 


4  8  12 
3  7  11 
2  6  10 
1  5  9 


4  8  12 
3  7  11 

2  6  10 
1  5    9 


48  Harness,    16  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


DIAG.  35.    Represents  a  design  which  is  to  explain  another  kind 
of  a  weave  which  may  be  cross  drawn,  and  which  we  might  also 


56  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


say  contains  a  combination  of  4  different  weaves;  although  the 
weaves  are  not  common  weaves,  the  design  produces  a  very  odd 
and  pretty  pattern.  Observe  it  is  separated  into  Aveaves,  4  weaves 
forming  the  combination  or  whole.  Also  observe  each  weave 
of  the  combination  is  composed  of  3  repetitions  of  4  harness  in 
each  set.  Thus  we  have  4  different  weaves  in  the  combination  of 
12  harness  each,  or  48  harness  in  all;  and  thus  48  warp  threads 
are  used  for  a  pattern,  and  only  1C  filling  threads,  as  it  is  16  bolts 
for  the  Avhole ;  generally  there  are  as  many  or  more  bolts  than 
harness.  By  careful  observation,  it  is  observed  that  each  of  the 
3  setts  of  each  weave  are  repetitions,  and  thus  one  sett  will  answer 
as  well  as  to  have  3  setts  alike,  and  thus  we  will  commence  with 
the  first  sett  of  the  1st  weave  and  draw  4  threads  straight  through 
harness  number  5  same  as  number  1,  and  will  put  the  5th  thread 
on  1st  harness;  harness  number  6  same  as  harness  number  2,  and 
will  put  the  6th  thread  on  2d  harness  and  so  on,  and  we  find  the 
first  sett  of  4  harness  will  carry  the  12  threads  by  drawing  them 
straight  through  3  times,  and  so  we  cancel  the.  other  two  setts 
of  1st  weave  and  pass  to  the  2d  weave,  and  we  find  the  same  repe- 
tition as  with  the  first  weave,  and  that  the  same  drawing  of  4 
threads  3  times  over  will  dispose  of  12  threads,  and  that  it  may 
alt  be  done  by  using  the  1st  sett,  and  so  on  with  the  3d  weave 
and  the  4th,  and  the  cross  draw  is  all  accomplished ;  and  we  have 
found  out  that  16  harness  will  carry  the  48  threads,  and  produce 
exactly  the  sajne  pattern  as  the  48  harness  would,  and  after  the 
2d  and  3d  setts  of  each  weave  have  been  cancelled,  then  the  1st 
setts  brought  together  gives  us  a  design  same  as  the  following. 

No.  36. 


5    9    48  threads  on  16  Harness. 
16  Harness,  16  Bolts. 
FRONT. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  57 

DIAG.  36.  Eepresents  diagram  No.  35  cross  drawn,  and  reduced 
to  respectable  dimensions  for  weaving.  And  to  draw  the  48 
threads  as  per  the  previous  diagram,  we  will  commence  and  draw 
12  threads  on  the  first  4  harness,  by  drawing  4  threads  3  times  over, 
then  the  next  12  threads  on  harness  5,  6,  7  and  8,  4  threads  3 
times  over,  then  the  next  12  threads  on  harness  9,  10,  11  and  12, 
and  the  last  12  threads  on  the  last  4  harness  same  way,  and  one 
pattern  is  drawn  in,  and  then  come  back  to  the  first  4  harness 
again.  But  the  same  cloth  woven  as  above,  will  draft  48  har- 
ness again.  The  cloth  sample  I  have  which  was  made  by  tliis 
design  is  as  follows:  Warp  one  and  one,  all  single,  1  brown, 
and  1  black  thread.  Filling,  all  single,  2  dark  brown,  2  black 
and  2  dark  green,  3  colors,  and  the  pattern  is  a  very  uncommon 
and  pretty  one. 

I  might  add  several  hundred  more  designs,  but  I  hope  and  ex- 
pect the  reader  Avill  be  able  to  learn  to  draft  patterns  without 
much  difficulty.  Care,  close  attention  and  practice  are  required 
after  the  theory  is  fully  understood,  to  enable  a  person  to  be  a 
good  draftsman. 


PART    SECOND 


WOOL    ROOM. 

department  must  be  acknowledged  to  be  the  primary 
department  of  the  business,  consequently  it  is  a  very 
important  branch.  (The  saying  is),  when  a  good  begin- 
ning has  been  made,  one-half  of  the  undertaking  has  been  accom- 
plished. Wrong  calculations  made  in  this  department,  either  in 
having  made  an  unprofitable  purchase  of  stock,  or  in  many  other 
ways  hereafter  mentioned,  the  whole  or  some  part  of  the  business 
will  be  affected  by  the  miscalculation.  It  will  hardly  be  consid- 
ered within  the  province  of  this  work  to  attempt  to  give  rules  or 
instructions  for  assorting  the  different  qualities  of  wool,  or  to 
write  a  lengthy  article  explaining  the  staples,  or  the  superiority 
of  one  particular  quality  or  grade,  as  compared  Avith  another  for 
general  use. 

I  propose  to  make  a  few  remarks  upon  the  general  manage- 
ment of  this  department,  and  give  some  rules  by  which  calcula- 
tions can  be  made,  and  thus  the  stock  may  be  arranged  systemat- 
ically, and  the  estimations  of  the  cost  of  goods  may  be  made,  so 
far  as  this  department  is  interested,  very  accurately.  The  same 
rules  and  calculations  are  constantly  employed  by  our  first  class 
manufacturers. 

Textile  fabrics  as  well  as  all  manufactured  articles,  are  arranged 
and  classified ;  their  respective  class  being  determined  somewhat, 


60  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


by  the  grades  and  qualities  of  wools  and  other  stocks  from  which 
they  are  made.  When  the  very  best  of  stock  has  been  taken  from 
the  wool  room,  sometimes  such  stock  as  ought  to  make  a  first 
class  fabric;  by  an  improper  treatment  in  some  of  the  subsequent 
departments,  the  cloth  is  made  to  appear  as  though  it  was  intended 
for  a  second  or  third  class  article ;  yet  with  all  the  improper  treat- 
ment, .a  person  skilled  in  manufacturing  is  generally  able  to  dis- 
cern, that  good  stock  was  literally  ruined  by  improper  treatment 
in  some  one  or  more  of  the  various  processes  necessary  to  produce 
the  manufactured  article.  This  remark  in  relation  to  the  improper 
treatment  of  stock,  is  given  to  show  that  the  stock  is  not  always  to 
be  blamed  for  not  producing  a  finished  fabric,  equal  to  what  it 
indicated  it  would  in  the  raw  material.  Each  manufacturer  usu- 
ally makes  a  regularly  established  grade  of  goods  to  be  sold  at  an 
average  price,  and  sometimes  has  regular  customers  for  his  goods, 
and  as  said  before  the  stock  employed  decides  the  grade.  Skill- 
ful managers  usually  have  pretty  correct  ideas  as  to  what  stock 
it  is  for  their  advantage  to  employ  to  allow  a  fair  profit,  and  make 
about  an  equivalent  article. 

It  will  be  found  necessary  also  to  make  some  calculations  by 
figures,  of  the  cost  for  labor,  stock,  manufacturing,  &c.,  to  keep 
our  business  on  the  safe  side ;  not  allow  the  affairs  to  be  carried  on 
by  guess  work  mainly,  and  wait  till  thousands  are  lost  before  we 
are  aware  that  the  business  is  running  at  a  loss.  One  of  Sir 
Walter  Scott's  sayings  was,  that  "  Whatever  might  be  said  of  luck 
'tis  skill  that  leads  to  fortune  ?"  I  should  say  a  person  who  is  in 
the  habit  of  carrying  on  business  on  the  guess  work  plan,  is 
trusting  to  luck — while  the  person  who  has  a  fair  knowledge  of 
the  business,  and  has  each  of  his  departments  supplied  with  a 
skillful  and  prudent  manager,  to  produce  the  best  possible  fabric 
from  the  stock,  and  has  a  regular  system  in  each  department, 
and  not  the  least  of  all  who  has  the  necessary  books  kept  in  each 
department,  to  furnish  ttie  necessary  figures,  by  which  estimations 
may  be  furnished,  so  that  he  may  have  full,  and  complete  control 
of,  and  understand  the  situation  of  his  business  ;  such  a  person 
is  doing  business  in  a  skillful  manner,  and  will  attain  a  station  of 
eminence,  that  is,  "  fortune." 

Unless  a  very  inferior  class  of  goods  are  made,  the  cost  for  the 
stock  material,  will  be  far  higher  than  for  any  other  material  or 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  61 

expense  connected  with  the  business,  the  fact  of  which  presents 
the  idea  that  it  is  a  very  important  department,  as  some  of  the 
stock  when  ready  for  use,  is  worth  from  4  to  5,  and  sometimes  it 
gets  up  to  6  cents  per  ounce,  and  6  cents  per  yard,  clear  profit,  on  a 
large  production  of  yards  will  foot  up  a  comfortable  yearly  income. 
Manufacturers  usually  obtain  their  wool  from  wool  commission 
houses,  where  they  have  a  choice  of  selection  from  all  grades,  as 
produced  from  this  and  other  countries.  One  and  perhaps  the 
greatest  principle  of  this  department  is  to  be  able  to  form  a  nearly 
correct  opinion  upon  the  probable  shrinkage  of  the  wool  when 
buying  it,  also  the  length,  and  strength  of  the  staple;  as  upon 
the  shrinkage  of  the  wool,  we  form  a  basis  of  its  cost,  and  upon 
the  length  of  the  staple,  AVC  judge  of  the  probable  amount  of 
short  stock  may  be  used  in  connection  with  it,  and  ^still  make  a 
strong,  smooth,  and  elastic  yarn  ;  as  all  the  wool  must  pass  through 
the  process  of  scouring,  or  cleansing,  and  upon  the  scouring  and 
the  loss  in  weight  thereby,  we  determine  the  cost  of  our  stock,  so 
that  the  market  price  of  the  wool  is  not  altogether  the  principal 
question  for  consideration,  but  it  is  the  percentage  of  grease,  sand 
and  other  matter  it  contains,  which  are  of  no  use  to  the  business 
and  consequently  are  a  dead  loss,  and  when  this  loss  is  actually 
known,  then  and  not  till  then,  can  we  decide  the  actual  cost  of 
the  stock.  As  was  said  before,  all  the  estimations  of  the  cost  of 
goods  for  the  stock  part  have  to  be  made  from  clean  stock  calcu- 
lations ;  no  positive  rule  can  be  given  of  the  probable  shrinkage  of 
different  wools,  as  the  same  sorts  of  fleece  wool,  are  found  to 
vary  in  their  shrinkages,  wrhen  obtained  from  different  localities. 
The  following  are  called  the  average  shrinkage  for  the  wools 
mentioned. 

Washed  No.  1  X  and  XX  fleece,  shrinks  on  an  average  from  33 
to  40  per  cent. 

Unwashed  No.  1  fleece  shrinks  on  an  average  from  40  to  50 
per  cent. 

A.  1,  A.  2,  Cal.  shrinks  on  an  average  from  45  to  55  per  ce.nt. 

No.  1,  X,  Mestiza  shrinks  on  an  average  from  50  to  60  per  cent. 

Tub  washed  fleece,  shrinks  on  an  average  from  15  to  25  per 
cent. 

Pulled  wools,  shrinks  on  an  average  from  33  to  40  per  cent. 


62  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


The  above  figures  are  sufficient  to  show  that  there  is  quite  a 
variation  in  the  shrinkage,  and  a  little  variation  in  the  shrinkage 
makes  quite  a  difference  in  their  cost.  A  very  good  way  to  obtain 
the  average  shrinkage,  is  to  sort  some  10  or  more  sacks  of  a  lot, 
and  weigh  the  several  sorts  separately,  and  keep  separately,  then 
take  about  50  tbs.  for  a  trial,  divided  in  proportions  as  itis  sorted, 
say  where  running  mostly  in  the  3rd  and  4th  qualities,  with  some 
1st,  2nd,  5th  and  6th,  take  the  relative  proportions  of  Ibs.  of  those 
sorts,  taking  more  of  the  3rd  and  4th  qualities  and  so  on.  Some 
manufacturers  take  100  Ibs.  for  a  trial,  taking  the  fleece  or  wool 
just  as  it  happens  to  come  in  the  sack  or  bale  without  giving  any 
attention  to  the  sortings  in  which  case  the  wool  taken  might  hap- 
pen to  be  fsir  from  the  average  of  the  lot.  The  writer  has  seen 
both  plans  tested,  and  prefers  the  former,  as  it  must  be  evident 
that  that  plan  will  bring  the  fine  and  coarse  grades  together  as 
they  are  actually  found  to  average.  A  little  time  given  to  this 
matter  is  time  well  and  profita'  'y  employed. 

Another  principle  of  this  dc-  n  ment,  is  to  have  an  overseer 
who  is  careful  and  particular  n.i  (•>  sorting  the  wools,  keeping 
them  nearly  uniform  in  sorts,  an,l  who  is  particular  to  have  al] 
the  small  bits  of  strings,  sticks,  &c.,  picked  out  before  leaving  his 
room,  as  a  small  piecs  of  a  string  left  in  the  wool  and  which 
passed  along  to  the  cards  has  been  found  to  cause  considerable 
damage.  Also  the  person  at  the  head  of  the  manufacturing,  should 
know  just  how  he  should  have  the  wool  sorted,  so  that  he  can 
take  the  various  qualities  and  use  them  to  the  best  advantage  for 
the  purpose  intended,  as  when  short  stock,  such  as  cotton,  cotton 
waste,  and  the  various  stapled  shoddies  are  used  in  connection 
with  wool,  sound  judgment  well  be  necessary  to  make  the  proper 
selections  of  sorts,  and  staples  to  carry  the  desired  quantity  of 
such  stock  and  which  will  card  well  and  not  make  an  unreason- 
able waste  in  carding,  make  a  good  even  and  strong  yarn,  and 
which  will  pass  through  all  the  departments  without  causing  any 
unnecessary  delay  in  the  production  of  goods.  The  production 
from  the  looms  is  of  great  importance,  as  the  more  yards  pro- 
duced the  less  will  be  the  average  cost  per  yard  for  labor,  and 
nearly  all  the  other  expenses  of  the  business  outside  of  the  stock, 
as  upon  the  production  of  yards  woven,  we  make  our  estimations 
of  the  cost  of  goods,  that  is,  all  expenses  outside  of  the  stock. 
No  rule  can  be  given  for  working  wool  with  cotton  or  shoddy  as 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  63 

it  depends  altogether  upon  the  length  of  their  staples,  and  all 
manufacturers  know  what  a  variety  of  staples  we  find  in  shoddies 
as  well  as  wools;  long  stapled  wools  usually  are  employed  to  carry 
short  stapled  shoddies,  &c.  (See  card  room.) 


SCOURING    WOOL. 

Care  should  be  taken  when  scouring  wools  to  have  them  well 
scoured,  and  well  washed  after  scouring,  they  can  never  be  too 
clean — and  when  scoured  for  obtaining  the  shrinkage,  it  should 
be  well  dried,  so  that  we  shall  not  be  misled  in  our  calculations. 
Most  all  dyers  know  what  a  bad  effect  greasy  wool  has  upon 
their  colors,  being  as  you  might  say  a  deadly  obstacle  to  the 
coloring.  Most  all  carders  know  what  a  bad  effect  greasy  wool 
has  upon  their  cards,  and  so  on  through  to  the  finishing  depart- 
ment where  perhaps  it  is  felt  as  seriously  as  anywhere,  for  highly 
finished  face  cloths  which  are  piece  dyed,  as  the  Doeskin  and 
Broadcloth,  no  even  color  or  lustre  can  be  obtained  upon  such 
cloths,  when  they  have  any  particle  of  greasy  wool  in  them.  And 
for  fancies  some  of  the  color  which  might  have  been  applied  a 
little  in  the  Dye  house,  such  as  it  was,  will  here  be  apt  to  take 
leave  of  absence  and  pass  from  the  scouring  machine  into  the 
trench,  i.  e.  if  strong  enough  soap  has  been  applied  to  start  the 
natural  grease  Avhich  was  in  the  wool — and  in  fact  providing  the 
color  should  be  retained,  and  also  the  grease,  iu  either  can  we 
have  a  spoiled  fabric.  When  wool  has  been  properly  scoured,  and 
the  suds  effectually  washed  out  it  will  appear  as  follows  :  it  will 
drain  very  rapidly,  and  when  the  water  has  pretty  well  drained 
from  it,  it  will  commence  to  swell  up  and  appear  somewhat 
springy — will  look  white  and  clear,  and  when  handled  and  shaken 
apart  will  be  feathery,  will  smell  clean,  and  will  not  be  gummy  or 
sticky ;  and  when  improperly  scoured  it  will  feel  weighty,  and 
greasy,  and  will  show  very  quick  that  it  has  been  improperly 
managed. 

The  following  rule  will  be  found  to  be  a  short  and  effectual 
method  for  obtaining  the  shrinkage  of  wools. 


64  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

KULE.  —  From  the  pounds  taken  in  the  grease,  subtract  the 
pounds  got  back  after  scouring  (and  well  dried),  and  divide  the 
remainder  with  two  ciphers  annexed  by  the  number  of  pounds  taken 
in  the  grease;  the  quotient  will  be  the  rate  per  cent,  of  shrinkage. 

EXAMPLE— Taken  for  a  trial,  50tt>s.  (lOlbs.  2d,  lOtbs.  3d,  201bs.  4tb, 5R>s. 
Got  back,  351bs.         each  of  5th  and  6th.) 

50)1500(30  pr.  ct.  ans.  (Rate  per  cent  of  shrink- 
1500  age  for  lOOlbs.) 

There  are  some  mills  where  they  have  ample  scouring  facilities 
in  which  they  sort  their  Avools,  scour  the  sorts  separately,  dry, 
and  return  to  the  wool  bins  already  for  use ;  in  which  case  the 
actual  shrinkage  is  obtained  and  the  cost  is  known.  And  where 
they  make  the  goods  of  perhaps  several  different  qualities  and 
kinds  of  wool,  they  have  a  chance  to  calculate  very  closely,  as  to 
about  the  pounds  required,  and  take  just  the  weight  wanted  for 
making  the  goods;  and  when  making  fancies  of  various  colors 
they  can  use  the  stock  economically,  and  avoid  having  an  innu- 
merable number  of  parts  of  spools  and  bobbins  lying  about.  As 
by  understanding  how  to  calculate  for  warp  and  filling  as  explain- 
ed in  part  first,  calculations  can  be  made  to  work  very  closely. 

Some  Superintendents  and  Agents  will  say  it  is  no  use  to  try  to 
calculate  to  have  warp  and  filling  work  up  evenly,  as  it  is  impos- 
sible ;  and  you  will  generally  find  those  persons  cannot  calculate, 
and  make  any  correct  estimation  upon  the  cost  of  their  goods, 
and  carry  on  business  without  many  books,  and  very  loosely, 
most  of  their  calculations  being  guess  work.  It  must  be  admitted, 
that  no  calculations  can  be  made  which  will  bring  both  warp  and 
filling  to  work  up  together  at  all  times,  and  yet  they  can  be  made 
to  work  very  nearly  together. 

Most  of  the  mills  take  the  wool  from  the  Wool  Room  as  they 
say  by  the  tub  or  vat ;  such  tubs  or  vats  usually  have  a  capacity 
capable  of  holding  from  200  to  300  fbs.  of  scoured  wools,  and 
when  of  that  size  they  would  be  called  400  or  500  pound  tubs  or 
vats  (as  speaking  of  the  wool  in  the  grease),  and  their  scouring 
facilities  will  not  allow  them  to  cleanse  any  more  from  day  to  day 
than  is  generally  used.  And  when  they  use  different  sorts  and 
kinds  of  wool,  they  generally  make  their  calculations  for  stock  to 
be  used  from  the  probable  shrinkage  of  the  wool,  and  thus  take 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUPACTUREE. 


65 


more  or  less  of  one  kind  or  the  other  in  the  grease,  according  to 
their  respective  shrinkages,  and  the  proportions  in  which  they 
wish  the  wools  to  appear  in  their  respective  lots.  The  following 
rule  and  example  will  explain  the  best  method  for  calculating  in 
this  case : 

NOTE. — There  has  been  taken  from  the  wool  room  400  Ibs.  of 
1st  quality  fleece  wool,  which  we  have  previously  ascertained 
shrinks  40  per  cent,  and  we  will  get  of  clean  stock  240  Ibs ;  and 
we  wish  to  add  to  this  the  same  number  of  pounds  of  1st  quality 
Mestiza  wool,  and  which  shrinks  55  per  cent.  How  many  pounds 
of  Mestiza  shall  we  be  obliged  to  take  in  the  grease,  to  just  equal 
the  240  Ibs.  of  clean  fleece?  The  Mestiza  shrinks  55  per  cent,  so 
that  45  Ibs  of  clean  wool  will  be  obtained  from  each  100  Ibs.  in 
the  grease. 

RULE.  —  Divide  the  pounds  of  dean  wool  ivanted,  with  two 
ciphers  annexed,  by  the  pounds  of  clean  wool  obtained  from  each 
100  Ibs.  of  the  wool  we,  wish  to  take  out ;  the  quotient  will  be  the 
pounds  required  in  the  grease  to  obtain  the  pounds  of  clean  wool 

wanted. , 

EXAMPLE. 
Lbs.  of  clean  Mestiza  wool  from  100,)45)240,00  the  Ibs.  wanted  clean  wool. 

533£  Ibs.  ans.  as  the  number  of 

lt)=j.  of  Mestiza  wanted  in  the  grease,  at  55  percent,  shrinkage,  to  obtain  the 
240 Ibs.  clean  stock.  This  rule  works  both  ways,  or  the  reverse  of  above 
example. 

Again,  suppose  we  had  a  lot  and  we  wish  to  add  a  certain  per- 
centage of  cotton,  or  shoddy,  or  wool. 

NOTE. — Suppose  we  have  a  lot  of  856  fts.  of  wool,  and  we  wish 
to  add  to  it  20  per  cent,  of  cotton,  what  will  be  the  weight  of  cot- 
ton required  ? 

RULE. — Divide  the  pounds  already  known,  with  two  ciphers  an- 
nexed, by  100  per  cent,  less  the  per  cent,  we  wish  to  add,  tlie  quo- 
tient will  be  the  total  iveight  of  the  lot,  from  which  subtract  the 
pounds  already  known,  their  difference  will  be  the  pounds  to  be 
added.  * 

EXAMPLE. 

cont.=80  per  cent,  for  a  divisor,  856  the  pounds 

lend.     80)856,00(1070  Ibs  aus.  as  total  pounds  with 

85600  20  per  cent,  added. 

1070  less  856tt>s.=2141t)s.  the  pounds  of  cotton  required 
for  the  lot. 


100  per  cent,  less  20  per 
alreadv  known  as  the  dividend. 


1 

66                           AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

To  find  the  cost  of  clean  wool  when  the  market  price  and  the 

rate  per  cent,  of  shrinkage  are  both  known. 

RULE.  —  Divide  the 

market  price  with  two  ciphers  annexed,  by 

the  pounds  of  clean  wool  obtained  from  lOOfts.  the  quotient  will 

be"the  cost  per  pound  for  clean  wool 

EXAMPLE.  —  The  market  price  is  40  cents  per  pound;  the  wool  shrinks  30 

per  cent,  per  100  It>s.  giving  us  70  Ibs.of  clean  wool  per  100  Ibs. 

Clean  wool  from  100  1  bs=70)40,00  market  price. 

57  1-7  cts.  per  pound  for  the  clean  wool. 

The  following  table  will  be  found  very  useful  as  a  ready  refer- 

ence, for  obtaining  p 

•ices  of  scoured  wool. 

TABLE  SHOWING  COST  OF  WOOL  AFTER  SCOURING. 

Find  the  price  in  the  left-hand  column,  and  at  the  right,  in  the  column  headed 

by  the  per  cent,  which 

the  wool  shrinks  in  cleansing,  will  be  found  the 

cost  of  the  cleansed  wool. 

£                                PER  CENT.   OF   SHRINKAGE. 

£   101520 

,  

25    30    35    40 

45  ,  50  j  55    60  1  65 

10  11  iiia 

13    14    15    16 

18    20   22   25    28 

124141415 

16    18    19    21 

22    25    28    31    35 

15    1017  IS 

20    21    23|  25 

27    30    33    37    43 

16fil8il9i20 

22    23    25'  2? 

30    33    37    41    47 

20'  22  2:}  35 

26    28    30    33 

36    40    44    50    57 

22^252628 

30    32    34    37 

41  i  45    50    56    64 

35   873931 

33    35    38    41 

45'  50'  55    62    71 

27|  3°  :>-  ;!4 

36    39    42    46 

50:  55    61    68    78 

30   3335^37 

40    43    46    50 

54'  60    66    75    85 

32$  36  38  40 

43    46    50    54 

59    65    72    68    93 

35    3041  45 

46    50    53    5S 

63    70    78    87100 

37|41J44!47 

50i  53    57    62 

68    75    83    93  107 

40    444750 

53    57    61    66 

73    80    89100114 

42|  47  50  53 

5li    CO    65    71 

77    85'  94106121 

45    505356 

<JO    (14    69    75 

8l|  90100112128 

47|525659 

63    68    731  79 

S6     115  1(15  IIS  135 

50   555862 

66f  71    77    83 

91100111  125  143 

52*5861  65 

70    75    80    87 

95105  116  13lll50 

55    61  6468 

:;;  ;s  s4  91100110122137157 

57^641;;  ;•< 

76    S2    8896104115127143164 

60  w  ;o;;> 

so   S5    92100109120133150171 

82169  7378 

83   89    96104113125139156178 

<;.->  :•>  7fl8i 

SO    02  100  108'll8  130  144162185 

67*  75  7!  >  S4 

'.)<>    96  103  112  122  135  150  168193 

70    7;  8281 

9:1  loo  107  116  127  140  155  175:200 

72|;80  85  90 

96  103  111  121  131  145  161jl81  207 

75  |83!88!93 

I00il07  115  125a36i50  1661187  214 

AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  67 


DYE    HOUSE. 

To  manufacturers  who  employ  colored  stock,  the  coloring  may 
be  considered  one  of  the  most  important  applications  connected 
with  their  business.  For  upon  the  excellency  of  the  colors,  their 
proper  combination,  and  the  economical  use  of  the  various  drugs 
and  dyes  tuffs,  depends  the  reputation,  as  well  as  a  large  share 
of  the  profits  of  the  establishment;  defective  colors  combined,  or 
a  defective  color  or  shade  in  a  fabric,  spoil  its  favorable  effect  and 
good  impressions  quicker  than  most  any  other  defect.  That  the 
beauty,  brilliancy,  and  brightness  of  the  colors  depend  very  much 
upon  the  purity  of  the  drugs  and  dye  stuffs  employed,  and  their 
proper  application,  all  must  admit.  The  idea  that  some  manu- 
facturers entertain,  that  a  cheap  article  of  drugs  and  dyestuffs  by 
using  a  larger  quantity  of  them,  will  equal  a  prime  article,  and 
produce  as  good  colors,  at  a  less  cost,  is  positively  a  wrong  idea. 
And  no  first-class  dyer  will  say  I  am  not  right.  In  the  first  place 
use  the  best  drugs  and  dye  stuffs.  Secondly,  employ  a  skillful 
dyer  who  is  capable  of  judging  the  qualities  of  his  materials,  as 
to  the  quantity  of  pure  coloring  matter  they  contain,  and  thus  he 
will  be  able  to  use  them  prudently,  and  avoid  unnecessary  ex- 
pense, and  also  who  knows  how  his  materials  should  be  applied 
to  produce  the  desired  color  or  shade  without  extra  boiling.  Boil- 
ing wool  is  no  process  by  which  it  is  benefited  for  any  purpose  in 
any  fabric.  A  little  boiling  does  not  appear  to  have  any  material 
bad  effect,  but  an  excessive  boiling  not  only  extracts  the  life  from 
the  fibers,  but  causes  them  to  full,  and  mat,  and  tangle  together 
and  thus  it  will  not  card  or  work  as  well  in  any  of  the  subse- 
quent departments,  consequently  will  not  make  as  good  cloth,  thus 
the  idea  is  presented  that  the  least  boiling  the  wool  is  subject  to  in 
this  process,  the  better  it  is  for  it,  and  a  skillful  dyer  will  not 
subject  the  wool  to  the  boiling  point,  for  any  longer  time  than 
is  actually  necessary.  There  are  many  of  the  so  called  "  receipt 
dyers"  and  who  lack  a  knowledge  of  the  chemical  qualities  and 
affinities  of  the  parts  of  drugs  and  dye  stuffs,  and  providing 
there  should  be  a  variation  in  the  drugs,  &c.,  which  they  were 
using  from  those  given  in  their  receipt,  and  thus  cause  a  variation 
in  the  color  or  shade,  then  comes  the  boiling,  they  must  throw 
in  a  little  more  of  some  article  arid  boil,  providing  that  article 
don't  produce  the  shade,  throw  in  some  other  article  and  boil,  and 


68  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

so  on  till  the  expected  shade  is  perhaps  obtained,  or  perhaps 
not  obtained.  And  if  not  obtained,  when  asked  the  reason,  he 
would  respectfully  say  the  fault  was  in  such  an  article  used  or  offer 
some  other  excuse.  Such  workmen  not  only  damage  the  stock, 
but  cannot  be  called  profitable  for  manufacturers,  but  still  areo'f 
some  profit  to  dealers  in  drugs  and  dye  stuffs.  Thirdly-have  the 
dye  house  constructed  with  a  view  to  convenience,  and  supplied 
with  all  the  proper  apparatus  to  facilitate  the  operations.  These 
three  requisites  fully  complied  with  and  there  are  no  just  reasons 
for  defective  colors  from  the  dye  house.  Sometimes  there  are 
other  agencies  which  the  colors  have  to  contend  with,  in  some 
one  or  more  of  the  succeeding  departments,  and  which  will  ope- 
rate against  them  somewhat,  when  they  are  produced  from  the  dye 
house  bright  and  beautiful.  Among  these  agencies  we  find  the 
admixtures  of  various  kinds  of  wastes,  shoddies,  cotton  and  flocks, 
and  the  improper  treatment  in  fulling  and  scouring.  Shoddies, 
generally  are  a  dull  mixture,  if  not  a  mixture,  ure  a  faded  color 
or  shade,  being  usually  made  from  old  rags,  cast  off  garments, 
&c.  Wastes  are  also  usually  a  mixture,  though  some  wastes  are 
pretty  good  colors.  When  a  mixture  is  desired  in  a  cloth,  some 
wastes  may  be  used  with  a  proper  stapled  wool,  and  produce  a 
good  mixture  and  a  good  fabric.  Usually,  the  more  wastes  and 
shoddies  which  are  mixed  in  with  our  good  colors,  the  more  we 
decrease  their  brightness  and  fullness.  Some  wastes  can  be  dyed 
and  the  color  appear  tolerably  well,  and  when  used  to  produce  a 
mixture,  may  be  .made  to  appear  quite  well,  if  not  used  to  excess 
and. thus  overbalance  the  better  color.  Also  cotton  has  no  natu- 
ral affinity  for  fast  colors ;  although  it  can  be  colored  quite  bright 
and  bloomy,  it  has  a  very  small  power  for  retaining  it,  so  that 
for  mixing  with  bright  wool  colors  it  has  a  tendency  to  tone  them 
down  somewhat,  and  if  not  fast  will  stain  them.  A  few  flocks 
properly  applied  to  the  backs  of  closely  woven  cloths,  do  not  have 
any  material  bad  effect  upon  the  colors.  Quite  often  the  person 
who  is  intrusted  with  the  flocking  and  fulling  is  neglectful,  and 
some  of  the  flocks  get  upon  the  face  of  the  cloths,  and  thus  pro- 
duce a  bad  effect  upon  the  colors  ;  also  when  applied  to  cloths  of 
an  open  and  slack  weave,  they  are  quite  apt  to  work  through  on  to 
the  face.  Judgment  and  skill  are  required  in  the  flocking  and  full- 
ing. Sometimes  the  cloths  are  woven  too  wide  (probably  the  de- 
signer's fault),  and  thus  they  require  to  be  exposed  to  the  friction 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  69 

of  the  fulling  mill  too  long  before  they  are  reduced  to  the  desired 
width  ;  the  exposure  is  apt  to  cause  the  colors  to  be  started,  so 
that  in  the  subsequent  process  of  scouring,  they  are  usually  spoiled. 

In  these  two  processes  of  fulling  and  scouring,  the  colors  are 
generally  subject  to  their  severest  tests.  Sometimes  the  soap 
is  applied  too  hot,  or  too  strong;  (continued  in  finishing  dept.) 
there  are  also  the  natural  elements  of  air,  light,  and  water,  so  that 
from  these  conclusions  we  learn  that  our  dyer  is  not  always  to  be 
blamed  for  imperfect  colors.  But  if  they  are  not  produced  right 
from  the  dye  house,  I  know  of  no  effectual  method  for  helping 
them  in  the  other  departments,  except  the  cloth  may  be  returned 
after  fulling  and  washing,  and  colored  in  the  piece.  Besides,  the 
injury  to  the  wool  Avhich  may  be  caused  by  excessive  boiling. 

Caution  should  be  exercised  when  using  such  chemicals  as  cop- 
peras, oil  and  blue  vitrols,  and  the  various  tin  and  iron  solutions, 
as  they  injure  wool  if  not  used  very  sparingly.  A  small  quantity 
too  much  is  sure  destruction.  Some  of  the  destructive  influences 
mentioned  with  which  the  colors  have  to  contend,  may  be  over 
come  somewhat,  by  having  the  colors  fixed,  that  is,  made  fast  by 
the  so  called  mordant  or  preparation  process. 

Materials  to  be  dyed,  of  whatever  nature,  are  seldom  found 
to  have  such  an  affinity  for  the  dyes,  &c.,  used  that  they  will 
retain  them,  and  thus  the  necessity  of  applying  the  "  mordant" 
or  remedy.  Chemistry  has  discovered  that  there  are  certain  sub- 
stances, which  will  fix  themselves  permanently  upon  the  fibre, 
and  then  by  uniting  chemically  with  the  color,  fix  that  perma- 
nently also;  and  this  application  is  called  as  above,  the  "mor- 
dant." It  is  sometimes  the  case  that  in  thus  combining  with  the 
colors,  the  mordant  modifies  or  alters  their  tones,  and  when  hav- 
ing that  effect  are  usually  called  "alterants;"  but  the  most  per- 
manent colors  are  produced  by  applying  the  mordant  before  the 
coloring  principles.  A  skillful  dyer  understands  the  chemicals 
necessary  to  produce  those  changes.  The  variations  which  may 
be  produced,  and  the  multiplicity  of  shades  which  arise  by  ^mix- 
ing the  portions  of  the  various  dyes  and  mordants,  gives  a  wide 
field  for  the  study  of  cause  and  effect. 

For  those  colors  which  contain  alkali  in  the  excess,  soaps  of  a 
fair  strength  have  a  tendency  to  brighten  them,  and  when  acids 
are  in  the  excess,  the  soap  has  a  tendency  to  injure  them  ;  and 


70  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

when  acid  colors  are  not  totally  spoiled,  they  may  be  restored 
somewhat,  by  running  them  in  a  bath  of  oil  of  vitrol  (sulphuric 
acid),  and  water.  Have  the  bath  to  taste  a  miFd  sour.  This  can 
be  done  the  best  usually  in  the  scouring  machine  or  washer  in 
the  finishing  room.  Let  off  all  the  soapy  water,  and  rinse  out 
the  washer  well,  then  let  in  the  fresh  water  and  add  the  acid  ;i> 
before  mentioned,  and  run  the  cloth  in  it  a  few  minutes.  I  have- 
seen  Nicolson  blues,  and  some  other  analiue  shades  (completely 
spoiled  apparently  by  strong  soap),  completely  restored  by  this 
bath. 

The  art  of  fixing  colors  a  id  dyeing,  is  one  of  the  most  progres- 
sive connected  with  manufacturing  in  America.  What  a  pro- 
gress since  the  days  of  Daniel  Webster  as  he  relates  it.  who,  while 
he  was  on  his  way  to  a  new  school  in  a  new  suit  of  homespun 
blue,  was  overtaken  by  a  shower,  and  the  color  washed  from  his 
coat  into  his  shirt.  With  the  lapse  of  time  the  art  will  be  better 
understood  than  now. 

CARDING    ROOM  . 

As  all  manufacturers  desire  to  make  the  best  possible  fabric 
from  the  stock  employed,  and  as  it  is  subject  to  its  first  mechani- 
cal operations  in  this  department,  it  is  very  evident  the  result  of 
these  operations  will  bear  seriously  upon  the  subsequent  opera- 
tions, and  thus  upon  the  fabric.  Upon  the  uniformity  of  the  rov- 
ing, depends  the  uniformity  of  the  spun  yarn;  upon  the  proper 
intermixing,  straightening  and  connecting  of  the  fibers  for  the 
roving,  depends  the  smoothness,  strength  and  elasticity  of  the 
spun  yarn.  If  the  stock  is  minced  and  improperly  mixed,  the 
roving  will  be  short,  uneven  and  nubby,  and  will  not  draw  out 
in  spinning,  and  will  make  a  fuzzy,  .uneven,  and  feeble  yarn 
(which  is  not  desired  ;)  thus  stock  which  has  passed  through  this 
department,  literally  speaking,  begins  to  assume  the  appearance 
of  yarn.  And  upon  the  quantity  of  yarn  produced,  depends  to  a 
great  extent  the  quantity  of  yards  which  will  be  produced  from 
the  looms.  And  upon  the  quality  of  the  yarn,  depends  to  a  great 
extent,  the  quality  and  appearance  of  the  fabric.  Thus  the  rela- 
tions and  dependencies  bearing  upon  this  department,  are  of  much 
importance.  The  first  important  step  is  the  preparation  of  the 
stock,  oiling,  mixing,  picking,  &c.,  which  takes  place  in  the 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER,  71 


PICKER    ROOM. 

The  preparing  of  the  stock,  previous  to  its  transfer  to  the  card- 
ing room,  should  usually  be  considered  an  important  operation, 
although  some  are  not  inclined  to  so  consider  it.  Our  best  carders 
usually  give  this  branch  of  their  department  a  reasonable  share  of 
their  attention,  especially  when  various  shoddies,  wastes  and  cot- 
ton are  employed  with  better  stock,  or  when  two  or  more  colors 
are  to  be  mixed  to  form  a  desired  shade  or  mixture,  or  when  some 
of  the  shorter  stapled  wools,  as  some  California  or  Mestiza  are  to 
be  used  with  longer  staples.  To  mix  the  shorter  staples  of  stock 
in  a  proper  manner,  is  almost  an  art ;  any  ordinary  workman  may 
be  able  to  card  the  various  sorts  of  fleece  wools,  but  to  mix  and 
card  the  various  admixtures,  of  short  and  long  staples,  and  make 
good  work,  and  not  make  an  unreasonable  amount  of  waste,  is 
almost  another  occupation. 

When  short  and  long  staples  are  to  be  used  together,  they  should 
be  well  mixed  in  the  picking  process;  besides  the  regular  picker 
which  is  found  in  all  woolen  mills,  some  have  a  willowing  ma- 
chine, which  is  a  very  good  machine  to  help  in  mixing.  Long 
stappled  stock  is  employed  to  carry  short  stock  ;  but  do  not  have 
the  longer  stapled  stock  too  coarse  and  hairy,  as  it  will  not  carry 
the  shorter  (staples)  stock,  as  well  as  the  middling  or  finer  grades 

The  best  and  most  even  mixtures  are  produced  by  mixing  a 
shorter  with  a  longer  staple,  providing  neither  are  a  very  coarse 
stock.  Some  will  say,  that  a  long  coarse  stapled  wool  will  carry 
more  short  stock  than- a  finer  staple;  I  should  say  not,  as  the 
coarser  the  stock  is,  the  nearer  it  approaches  the  hair  and  is  apt 
to  be  curly.  There  will  also  be  a  less  number  of  fibers  in  a  yard 
of  yarn  of  the  coarse,  than  if  finer  and  not  quite  so  long;  and  the 
more  fibers  of  fair  length,  the  more  short  stock  will  be  carried, 
and  make  a  strong,  smooth  yarn,  as  there  will  be  more  fibers  of 
the  long  stock  to  connect,  as  well  as  wind  around  the  short  stock, 
and  thus  there  will  be  less  waste;  still,  there  is  such  a  thing  as 
overloading  a  lot  of  fair  stapled  stock  with  shorter  stock,  the  re- 
sult of  which  will  be  a  large  percentage  of  waste,  (and  waste  is 
waste),  the  waste  thus  obtained  is  not  worthless  stock,  but  it  does 
not  form  a  profitable  production,  and  the  less  of  it  is  made  the 
better.  The  fourth  and  fifth  qualities  of  fleece  wools  which 


72  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


have  a  pretty  long  staple,  will  carry  more  short  stock  than  any 
stock  in  the  market. 

Colored  wools  which  are  dyed  with  chip  or  ground  woods, 
should  be  run  through  the  duster  till  the  dyestuffs  are  effectually 
cleaned  out.  When  wool  is  to  be  mixed  with  colored  cotton,  they 
should  each  be  passed  through  the  picking  process  before.mixiug. 
Colored  cotton  is  always  very  much  matted  and  stuck  together, 
which  is  caused  by  its  being  so  thoroughly  wet  in  the  dyeing  pro- 
cess. White  cotton  does  not  usually  require  to  be  picked  before 
mixing;  also  in  apphing  the  oil  to  lots  in  which  cotton  is  to  be 
mixed,  apply  the  oil  to  the  wool  part  of  the  mixture,  and  whip 
it  in  thoroughly,  and  avoid  oiling  or  wetting  the  cotton.  If  cotton 
is  to  be  used  in  a  medium  grade  of  goods,  I  think  it  is  best  to  use 
as  much  of  it  colored  as  possible;  for  wjsen  white  cotton  specks 
get  into  a  piece  of  goods  which  contain  one,  or  two  or  more  colors, 
they  show  very  conspicuously ;  and  cotton  specks  show  off  to  a 
better  advantage  than  wool  specks.  Colored  cotton  is  said  to  con- 
tain about  50  per  cent,  more  combustive  properties,  than  the 
white  or  raAV  material,  and  thus  requires  careful  watching — keep 
from  the  sun's  rays  and  steam  pipes. 

As  is  mentioned  in  the  Dye  House  remarks,  cotton  has  no  nat- 
ural affinity  for  fast  colors,  thus  it  has  a  very  small  power  for  retain- 
ing them,  so  that  cotton  when  colored  and  employed  in  a  fabric 
with  the  white,  the  color  is  apt  to  run  from  the  colored  and  unite 
with  the  white,  just  enough  usually  to  stain  it,  so  that  unless  the 
color  is  fixed  upon  the  cotton,  a  very  difficult  operation,  it  is  best 
not  to  use  much  white  cotton  in  the  same  fabric.  Wool  is  not 
stained  usually  by  cotton  colors.  When  two  or  more  colors  or  shades 
are  to  be  mixed  in  the  stock  to  produce  a  certain  shade,  the  finer 
the  stock  employed  the  more  even  and  better  the  mixture.  A 
1,  and  A  2,  California  and  Mestiza  wools,  mixed  with  the  1st,  2d, 
3d  and  4th  qualities  of  No.  1,  X,  or  XX  fleece  wools,  usually  make 
good  mixtures  as  well  as  good  yarn  and  cloth.  The  Spring  clip 
of  California  is  usually  a  longer  staple  than  the  Fall  clip,  and  will 
make  good  cloth  of  itself;  Fall  clips  being  shorter,  will  not  work 
as  well  alone,  and  thus  require  the  assistance  of  longer  staples. 
A  1,  is  the  best,  A  2,  is  the  next,  B  next,  and  so  on.  Mestiza 
wool  is  also  known  by  A  1,^A  2,  &c.,  is  somewhat  similar  to  Cal- 
ifornia, as  regards  the  length  of  staples,  the  latter  is  usually  the 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTUEEB.  73 

finest,  and  thus  is  heavier  aud  will  shrink  more  in  scouring,  and 
the  market  price  is  usually  lower,  but  the  great  loss  in  scouring 
usually  makes  it  the  most  costly  wool  in  the  market  for  fulled 
cloths. 

Cape  of  Good  Hope  wool  is  sometimes  employed  for  a  fabric 
upon  which  a  thick  fine  nap  is  desired,  or  a  velvet  finish.  Its  staple 
is  usually  not  very  strong.  The  finer  grades  of  California  and 
Mestiza,  are  equal  to  any  wools  usually  employed  for  fulled  cloths, 
for  producing  a  velvet  finish,  or  a  thick  nap,  or  a  glossy  finish. 

The  first  quality  of  A.  1,  Mestiza,  of  a  fair  staple,  mixed  with 
the  first  quality  of  X  or  XX  fleece,  about  half  and  half,  makes 
about  the  best  stock  for  a  black  doeskin  warp,  thus  showing  that  a 
good  yarn  can  be  made,  as  good  yarn  is  required  for  such  cloths, 
especially  the  black,  glossy  doeskin.  There  are  also  the  burry  and 
very  burrv  California  and  Mestiza  and  Texas  wools;  the  two  for- 
mer usually  contain  the  small  ring  bur,  the  latter  the  large  plum 
bur.  Of  these  two  species  the  ring  burs  are  the  worst;  they  re- 
semble a  coil,  as  they  may  be  unrolled  and  form  a  thread  from 
one  to  two  inches  in  length,  and  if  not  separated  from  the  stock 
in  the  subsequent  process  of  carding,  will  usually  unroll  and  unite 
with  the  yarn,  and  thus  make  bad  work  in  spinning  and  weaving. 
No  manufacturer  should  attempt  to  use  such  wool,  unless  sup- 
plied with  a  good  bur  picker.  The  burring  process  is  by  no 
means  of  any  assistance  to  the  stock  or  staple;  its  tendency  is  to 
tear  the  fibers.  Wools  which  are  very  burry  will  usually  lose  from 
5  to  15  per  cent,  in  this  process,  which  advances  their  cost  so 
much  more.  Wools  to  be  burred  should  be  bone  dry,  so  as  to 
make  the  bur  hard;  thus  it  will  be  more  easily  severed  from  the 
j  stock,  than  when  wet  and  soft. 

Texas  and  Oregon  wools  are  noted  for  their  coarse  long  staples ; 
j  the  finer  qualities  make  good  Scotch  tweeds,  and  blankets,  and 
I  will  do  for  back  filling  to  medium  and  low  grades  of  cloth. 


OILING    WOOL. 

The  matter  of  oiling  wool  is  of  much  importance.     Good  oil, 

correctly  applied,  will  be  found  to  be  a  valuable  assistant,  through 

all  the  departments.     In  the  carding  process,  its  tendency  is  to 

straighten  the  fibers  and  thus  help  to  connect  them,  and  make  a 

10 


74  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

strong  smooth  yarn ;  it  also  helps  to  make  the  strands  even  and 
thus  strong,  also  less  flying  or  waste  is  made,  also  it  keeps  the 
teeth  or  wires  of  the  card  clothing  clean,  thus  good  yarn  is  more 
apt  to  be  produced,  with  less  waste,  and  which  yarn  will  spin  well 
arid  weave  well.  And  in  the  finishing  room,  the  oil  will  be  easily 
washed  out  of  the  fabric,  without  excessive  application  of  strong 
alkaline  soap,  which  will  neutralize  and  thus  injure  the  colors, 
especially  those  which  are  produced  by  acids,  and  some  delicate 
alkali  colors  or  shades.  An  inferior  oil  will  be  found  to  operate 
contrary  to  what  is  above  mentioned. 

Olive  Oil  stands  highest  in  the  ranks  of  wool  oils,  as  well  as 
highest  in  price.  Usually,  a  less  quantity  will  answer  for  the  same 
amount  of  wool,  than  the  lower  order  of  oils,  so  that  the  cost  may 
be  materially  reduced  nearly  to  the  cost  of  a  No.  1  lard  oil,  which 
stands  second  in  rank  to  the  olive.  And  a  really  No.  1  lard  oil  is 
quite  good  enough  to  apply  to  any  grade  or  quality  of  wool ;  also 
a  No.  2  lard  oil  if  fully  up  to  that  number  will  not  be  much  in- 
ferior to  the  No.  1.  We  have  another  lard  oil  called  the  Saponi- 
fied Eed  Oil,  and  I  think  it  is  quite  as  good  as  a  No.  2  lard.  A 
very  good  soap  is  easily  made  with  it,  thus  showing  its  saponify- 
ing qualities,  and  that  it'  will  work  well  in  the  fulling  and  scour- 
ing processes;  also  it  works  well  in  the  carding  process,  and  is 
cheaper  than  a  No.  2  lard.  Use  about  1  gallon  to  the  100  tbs.  for 
colored  sorts  from  4th  quality  and  coarser,  and  finer  qualities  when 
white;  for  finer  than  4th  quality  colored,  use  5  or  6  quarts  to  the 
100  Ibs.  This  oil  will  not  smell  as  well  upon  the  stock  while  in 
operation,as  the  olive  and  No.  1  and  2  lard  oils ;  but  when 
scoured  and  finished  properly,  no  bad  smell  will  be  found.  I  also 
think  as  an  average  it  is  more  uniform  than  other  lard  oils,  i.  e., 
it  is  not  so  often  stuffed  with  inferior  compounds,  as  is  the  case 
with  the  higher  grades. 

Uniformity  in  oils  is  of  very  much  importance,  especially  to  the 
finisher,  who  is  able  to  regulate  his  soaps  to  a  certain  degree  with 
the  hydrometer,  and  always  produce  clean  cloths,  without  injur- 
ing the  colors,  or  giving  the  cloths  the  harsh  and  wiry  feeling  pro- 
duced from  a  use  of  excessive  alkali.  An  inferior  No.  1  or  2  lard 
oil,  is  a  poor  article  indeed  ;  they  may  work  tolerably  well  in  all 
dopartments  except  the  finishing,  when  a  soap  will  be  required 
to  clean  the  cloths,  strong  enough  to  neutralize  the  colors,  and 
make  the  cloth  feel  harsh  and  wiry  as  stated  above. 


WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  75 


For  using  a  No.  1  lard  oil,  apply  about  one  quart  to  the  lOOfbs. 
less  than  for  Saponified  Eed  Oil,  or  it  may  be  reduced  still  more 
and  make  good  work,  with  the  following  mixture  : 

3  or  4lbs.  of  Borax,  (the  red  preferred.) 

2  Ibs.  Sal  Soda, 

1  Barrel  soft  water. 

Boil  45  minutes,  and  use  about  three  quarts  of  the  mixture 
well  mixed  with  three  quarts  of  oil  for  100  ft>s.  of  clean  wool,  or 
more  mixture  and  less  oil.  The  above  mixture  is  better  if  allowed 
to  stand  a  week  before  using.  I  would  not  advise  the  mixture 
for  use  only  when  the  stock  is  to  be  put  upon  the  cards  very  soon 
after  it  is  applied  ;  or  it  would  do  very  well  for  the  self  oiling 
machines.  For  lots  which  are  oiled  and  picked,  and  stored  for  a 
week  or  more,  the  evaporation  of  the  water,  &c.,  will  not  leave 
the  stock  in  as  good  condition  as  clear  oil.  The  mixture  would 
be  a  good  one  without  the  sal  soda,  its  tendency  is  to  soften  the 
staple  and  assist  in  scouring.  Most  people  know  the  virtue  of 
Borax,  what  a  good  effect  it  produces  upon  the  hair,  making  it 
smooth,  soft  and  glossy  ;  it  has  a  similar  effect  upon  wool  and  is 
a  valuable  assistant  in  the  carding  process,  and  would  be  a  good 
mixture  for  any  kind  of  oil. 


ADULTERATED  OIL. 

The  desire  to  adulterate  oils,  seems  to  be  almost  equal  to  the 
desire  of  some  of  the  manufacturers  of  woolen  goods;  sharp  com- 
petition prevailing  the  past  few  years,  some  unscrupulous  dealers 
have  been  tempted  to  offer  staple  oils,  guaranteed  strictly  pure,  at 
less  than  the  cost  of  production,  and  by  adulterating  are  able  to 
obtain  a  margin  of  profit.  Crude  petroleum  is  found  to  be  ben- 
zined ;  lard  oil  is  adulterated  with  cotton  seed  oil,  and  sometimes 
it  contains  acid ;  lubricating  oils  are  made  heavy  with  rosin  oil ; 
therefore  a  test  to  detect  the  adulteration  is  much  desired.*  The 
following  method  for  testing  lard  oils  for  manufacturers,  is  about 
if  not  quite  equal  to  any  yet  known,  as  follows  :  Take  a  common 
glass  tumbler  and  fill  about  one-third  full  of  melted  scouring 
soap,  of  pretty  good  strength,  not  much  stronger  than  for  using, 
say  two  or  three  degrees  hydrometer.  (See  finishing.)  And  add 


76  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTUE^f. 

to  this  about  another  one-third  of  the  oil,  stir  and  mix  well,  and 
then  observe  as  follows  : 

A  No.  1  lard  oil,  will  yield  a  milky  like  mixture,  and  if  allowed 
to  stand  awhile,  will  not  separate  much  if  any,  and  if  it  appears 
as  above  stated,  it  is  a  good  article  and  will  work  through  all  de- 
partments nicely.  A  No.  2  lard  oil,  will  also  appear  something 
like  the  No.  1,  only  there  will  arise  at  the  surface  small  patches 
which  will  not  mix  readily,  and  if  allowed  to  stand  awhile,  the 
soap  and  oil  will  separate  very  much.  When  either  of  the  two 
numbers  have  been  adulterated  much,  they  will  not  give  so  much 
of  the  milky  appearance,  and  will  separate  very  quickly;  and  if 
adulterated  very  much,  Avill  make  a  thick  mass,  similar  to  meal 
and  water.  The  writer  saw  an  instance  where  it  appeared  as  last 
mentioned,  but  hundreds  of  yards  of  goods  were  damaged  before 
the  matter  was  traced  to  the  oil  in  the  picker  room.  The  goods 
were  damaged  in  the  scouring,  as  they  were  washed  with  an  ex- 
cessively strong  soap  to  start  the  grease  ;  the  cloths  being  black 
and  white  double  and  twist,  were  made  cloudy,  i.  e.,  the  grease 
and  color  was  started  in  some  places,  and  set  in  others,  giving  the 
so  called  cloudy  appearance.  Had  that  oil  been  tested  it  never 
would  have  been  applied,  and  the  damage  never  happened. 

The  Saponified  Red  Oil  will  not  yield  a  milky  like  mixture, 
but  will  retain  its  reddish  color  ;  yet  it  will  mix  and  appear  soapy, 
and  a  few  particles  will  arise  at  the  surface.  Should  it  be  very  poor, 
it  will  thicken  somewhat  and  curdle.  We  also  have  the  Red  and 
Elaine  oils,  which  are  not  so  much  used  as  the  better  grades,  and 
are  usually  applied  to  satinet  stock,  &c. 


SPINNING    ROOM. 

This  department  the  next  in  order  is  an  important  department? 
though  should  the  stock  not  have  been  properly  fitted,  or  properly 
selected  to  meet  the  requisites  intended,  it  is  not  liable  to  be  im- 
proved much  by  the  process  of  spinning.  Calculations  are  usually 
made  before  the  stock  reaches  this  department,  as  to  the  size  of 
yarn  required,  and  the  stock  is  selected,  and  carded  to  meet  the  re- 
quirements. But  sometimes  the  stock  is  not  qualified  to  spin  to 
the  size  desired,  when  it  has  been  properly  carded;  in  which  case 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  77 

it  may  be  made  to  spin  better,  ami  not  to  change  calculations  very 
much,  by  altering  the  size  of  the  yarn,  that  is,  providing  the  stock 
was  proposed  for  an  8  run  yarn,  and  it  will  not  draw  out  to  that  size 
without  much  trouble,  by  breaking  when  spinning,  then  perhaps 
there  may  be  an  improvement  made  by  making  the  yarn  a  little 
heavier,  by  spinning  7^  runs  fine,  or  a  little  heavier,  and  perhaps 
it  will  then  answer  just  as  well  for  the  fabric.  Again,  suppose 
the  stock  was  qualified,  and  not  properly  carded,  then  perhaps 
the  same  alteration  in  the  size  of  the  yarn  will  make  an  improve- 
ment, so  that  there  is  a  little  chance  to  correct  defects  in  this 
department.  In  this  department,  previous  faults  arising  from 
improper  selections  of  stock,  improper  mixing  and  improper  card- 
ing will  be  first  observed. 

In  this  department  as  well  as  any  of  the  others,  the  stock  may 
be  improperly  managed.  Skill  is  required  on  the  part  of  the 
spinner  who  operates  the  jack,  especially  when  fine  yarn  is  in  the 
process.  An  unskillful  workman  may  easily  make  bad  work  by 
causing  the  threads  to  break  upon  the  jack ;  practice  is'  required 
to  operate  a  jack  properly,  after  the  theory  is  fully  understood. 
The  self  operating  machines  (rnules),  are  an  improvement  upon 
the  ordinary  jack  ;  thus  the  fact  is  presented  that  to  operate  the 
jack  in  a  proper  manner,  it  must  be  moved  uniformly  when  draw- 
ing out,  the  coarser  the  yarn  is  wanted  the  less  drawing  is  usually 
required;  yet  care  is  required  as, well  as  for  finer  yarn. 

The  several  twists  to  which  yarns  are  submitted,  are  designated 
as  right,  left,  hard,  slack,  double  and  twist,  three  ply,  four  ply, 
diamond,  &c.  These  twists  perform  important  services  in  a  fab- 
ric. Very  many  of  the  woven  cloths  are  of  the  twill  order,  and 
twists  and  twills  are  dependencies.  When  a  good,  smooth,  round 
right  hand  twill  is  Avanted,  the  warp  yarn  must  be  right  twisted, 
and  for  a  good  left  hand  twill  have  warp  yarn  left  twisted.  The 
first  sample  of  cloth,  will  serve  to  illustrate  twills ;  the  her- 
ringbone comprises  two  twills,  the  right  hand  side  fronv  the 
point  is  a  right  twill,  the  left  hand  side  from  the  point  is  a  left 
twill,  so  that  to  make  the  two  twills  perfectly,  two  twists  are  re- 
quired; but  the  twists  in  the  sample  are  both  right  hand,  and 
thus  by  observing  it  may  be  easily  seen  there  is  a  difference  in 
their  appearance ;  the  right  hand  side  twill  is  smooth  and  round, 


78  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

while  the  left  hand  is  more  flat  and  riot  as  smooth ;  the  difference 
would  show  more  distinct  if  the  herringbone  was  larger,  so  that 
more  of  the  twills  could  be  seen.  Also  the  yarn  is  very  hard 
twisted,  so  that  there  is  less  difference  to  be  noticed. 

The  twist  applied  to  the  filling  as  regards  right  or  left,  does 
not  have  any  material  effect  upon  the  appearance  of  the  face  of 
the  goods,  and  some  manufacturers  think  the  twist  of  the  filling 
is  of  little  importance  whether  a  left  or  right  twist.  All  know 
that  it  is  easier  to  make  one  twist  continually,  than  to  change 
jack  bands  and  change  twists.  Some  manufacturers  think  a  better 
fabric  is  made  by  having  the  filling  twisted  contrary  to  the  warp. 
I  have  seen  both  plans  tested  and  could  not  discern  the  least  dif- 
ference in  their  appearance  or  strength. 

HARD  TWIST. 

•  A  hard  twisted  yarn  is  made  by  subjecting  the  roving  to  an 
extended  length  of  time  while  receiving  the  twist  on  the  jack, 
thus  making  a  hard  finn  thread;  sometimes  so  much  twist  is  put 
in  that  the  yarn  will  be  kinky;  the  kinks  may  not  be  ob- 
served till  the  yarn  is  being  unwound  from  the  bobbins  when 
spooling,  or  in  the  shuttle  when  weaving.  By  subjecting  the 
kinky  yarn  to  a  few  minutes  (in  a  box)  steaming,  the  kinks  will 
be  somewhat  taken  out.  For  cloths  upon  which  the  twill  is  to 
show  distinctly,  or  when  several  colors  are  combined  and  a  close 
finish  is  intended  to  show  the  pattern  distinctly,  the  yarns  which 
^predominate  upon  the  face,  either  warp  or  filling,  will  require  to 
be  hard  twisted,  as  cloths  which  are  to  receive  such  a  finish  in 
order  to  look  well,  clear  and  bright,  are  subject  to  considerable 
gigging,  and  if  not  well  twisted,  the  threads  upon  the  face  will 
look  raw  and  worn  instead  of  smooth  and  bright. 

SLACK  TWIST. 

Slack  twist  is  the  reverse  of  hard  twist.  Cloths  upon  which  a 
thick  nap  is  desired,  the  yarn  is  usually  a  slack  twist,  as  for  chin- 
chillas, velvet  finish,  &c.,  unless  for  a  black  glossy  doeskin  or  beaver. 
The  extra  amount  of  gigging  applied  to  such  cloths,  requires  a 
well  twisted,  strong  thread,  thereby  requiring  less  gigging  to  work 
up  the  fibers  necessary  to  produce  the  nap. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  79 


.  Yarns  which  are  to  be  twisted  with  silk  for  a  silk  mixture,  are 
usually  slack  twisted,  as  when  in  the  process  of  spinning  them 
together,  the  yarn  receives  more  twist.  Also  the  silk  being  usu- 
ally a  fine  strong  thread  helps  to  strengthen  them.  Also  the  silk 
will  show  more  conspicuous  in  the  finished  clo£h,  when  applied 
to  a  medium  slack  twisted  thread.  When  silk  threads  are  applied 
to  warp  yarns,  it  may  be  necessary  to  have  the  yarn  well  twisted, 
so  to  make  a  good  strong  warp. 

It  is  necessary  to  be  very  careful  when  making  yarns  for  silk 
mixtures,  to  have  them  uniform  in  size.  Also  when  applying  the 
silk  to  have  them  evenly  twisted,  as  silk  mixed  cloths  show  very 
quickly  if  the  silk  twist  is  uneven.  Usually  in  the  second  pro- 
cess of  spinning,  when  the  silk  is  applied,  considerable  twist  is 
put  in,  as  the  more  twist  applied  the  more  silk  will  be  shown  in 
auy  given  space. 

DOUBLE  AND  TWIST 

Yarns  are  also  hard  and  slack  twisted.  If  the  two  threads  which 
form  the  twist  are  twisted  very  closely,  the  twist  would  be  called 
"hard;"  and  if  not  closely  and  firmly  twisted,  the  twist  would  be 
called  "slack."  The  number  of  holes  of  twist  applied  to  sucfr 
yarns,  may  be  ascertained  by  observing  how  many  times  the 
threads  are  wound  around  each  other  in  the  space  of  an  inch.  As 
for  instance,  if  wound  ten  times  in  the  space  of  an  inch,  it  would 
indicate  that  ten  holes  of  twist  had  been  applied.  The  applica- 
tion of  twist  to  yarns,  will  depend  upon  the  style  of  goods  to  be 
made;  to  make  a  firm  cloth  of  double  and  twist,  the  yarn  is  usu- 
ally well  twisted.  Also  to  make  a  good  twill,  twist  the  warp 
yarns  the  same  way  of  the.  twill  as  though  single.  A  double  and 
twist  in  the  warp  when  very  slack  twisted,  will  not  appear  so  reg- 
ular and  even  in  the  goods  as  though  hard  twisted  ;  and  if  twisted 
contrary  to  the  twill,  the  cloths  will  appear  a  little  uneven.  The 
style  of  some  goods  require  such  an  uneven  and  irregular  appear- 
ance. 

In  some  cases,  when  a  somewhat  peculiar  and  uncommon  pat- 
tern is  desired,  only  one  or  two  holes  of  twist  to  the  inch  is  ap- 
plied to  the  warp,  and  in  the  cloth  thus  made,  the  colors  compos- 
ing the  twist  will  appear  irregular ;  sometimes  one  color  will  show 


80  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

for  the  space  of  one-half  an  inch,  then  the  next  color  appears  the 
same.  Sometimes  the  filling  is  twisted  the  same  when  it  is  de- 
sired to  appear  irregular;  but  such  twists  are  more  commonly 
applied  to  the  warp.  Another  twist  may  be  made  in  th>;  tilling, 
by  winding  two  differently  colored  yarns  upon  a  bobbin,  and  when 
in  the  process  of  weaving  and  the  two  threads  are  unwinding,  they 
will  form  a  very  slack  twist  and  make  a  peculiar  appearance. 

THREE-PLY, 

Three  threads  twisted  together,  is  also  made  hard  and  slack 
twisted.  Sometimes  a  double  and  twist  of  bright  colors  may  re- 
quire to  be  toned  down  so  as  not  to  appear  quite  so  prominent ; 
then  by  twisting  another  thread  around  them  of  a  more  somber 
color  or  shade,  the  brilliancy  will  be  somewhat  modified.  Some- 
times twists  are  used  more  especially  to  obtain  weight,  or  in  warp 
when  a  cord,  or  twilled  stripe,  or  a  feather,  or  a  herringbone  is  to  be 
made  in  a  combination,  with  a  ground  Avork  of  single  yarn,  then 
by  having  the  warp  threads  which  are  to  produce  the  coid,  twill- 
ed stripe,  &c.,  made  of  double  and  twist,  they  will  show  more  prom- 
inent, and  will  be  somewhat  raised  from  the  ground  weave. 

DIAMOND   TWIST, 

Sometimes  called  braid,  is  made  by  having  either  a  single,  a 
double  and  twist,  or  a  three-ply  thread  twisted  with  another 
thread,  either  a  double  and  twist  or  single,  twisted  to  the  opposite. 
Thus  the  thread  contains  two  twists,  and  appears  diamond  shaped, 
or  something  like  braiding;  and  when  used  with  two,  three  or 
more  different  colored  threads,  it  makes  a  peculiar  and  uncom- 
mon twist.  Sometimes  the  last  thread  or  threads  applied,  are 
wound  around  very  loosely  which  is  usually  called  "lapping/' 
and  when  applied  thus  tends  to  appear  rather  more  peculiar. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  81 


{|o  Calculate  fec^  and  ^ eights  o)f  |]ams 

Se 


In  order  to  manufacture  cloth  in  a  scientific  and  systematic  man- 
ner, by  and  with  the  use  of  various  sizes  and  weights  of  yarn,  it 
has  been  found  necessarv  to  devise  some  method  by  which  both 
the  sizes  and  weights  may  be  calculated  and  known ;  and  to  meet 
this  necessity,  the  spinner's  table  was  originated,  which  is  based 
upon  weight.  A  given  number  of  yards  of  spun  yarn  in  order  to 
be  of  a  certain  size,  must  weigh  a  certain  specified  weight.  These 
various  sizes  of  yarn  are  called  runs;  1  run,  2  runs,  2£  runs  and 
so  on.  The  No.  1  run  (or  size),  is  the  basis  or  starting  point  as 
speaking  of  the  fineness,  and  is  the  largest  size  for  which  a  weight 
is  usually  given.  1600  yards  of  number  one  rnn  yarn  weighs  one 
pound  avoirdupois  (7,000  grains);  1600  yards  of  any  sized  yarn 
makes 'a  run  ;  but  the  weight  of  the  run  determines  what  number 
run  the  varn  is,  or  the  size. 


The  following  table  for  calculating  the  size  of  yarns,  will  be 
found  a  correct  and  convenient  method,  and  is  a  calculation  for 
50  yards.  As  calculations  can  as  readily  be  made  from  50  yards 
us  1600  yards,  the  surest  method  is  to  take  10  bobbins  from  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  jack,  and  reel  off  5  yards  from  each  for  the  trial,  100 
yards  would  be  required  to  weigh  twice  as  many  grains  as  speci- 
fied in  the  table.  There  are  yarn  beams  with  the  runs  and  frac- 
tional parts  given  for  a  certain  number  of  yards,  in  which  case 
the  table  would  not  be  so  valuable.  But  the  apothecary  scales 
are  a  surer  balance  than  any  other.  As  I  have  seen  a  cons^dera- 
ble  variation  between  two  of  the  first"  mentioned  balances,  and  a 
little  variation  makes  quite  a  difference  in  the  size  of  yarns,  and  a 
little  variation  in  weight  with  25  or  50  yards,  foots  up  pounds  in 
a  few  thousand  yards. 

11 


82 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


SPINNINGS  TABLE. 


s  I  «     "=     5     is 

1   i   I   i    I   I 


1  !218f  3  I  73  |5  I  43f  7  314 

14175  34  67  '54  41f  74  30 

14146  34  6245|  394.  .7*1  29  I 

If  125  3f  58  of  38  7f  28 
54f  6   3d4  8 


274 


2  j!09 

24!  97    _,  „ 

2|    87^4-J  4846|   33f:8|[  25f 

2f    79ij4f;  46"  6fi  324.j8f;  25 


44!  514641  35    84!  26^104 
"10| 


9f 
10 


24411  20  13  16f 
23fll4  194134:  164! 
23  114  19"  134  16| 


224  llf    18fl3f 
2l|l2 


20fl2i   174.15 
20^12|   17|l6 


16 
16f 

15    , 


13 


For  estimating  double  and  twist  yarns,  add  together  the  grains 
opposite  the  number  of  each  size  used,  their  sum  will  be  the 
weight  opposite  the  size  to  which  they  belong. 


EXAMPLES. 


6  runs,  364.  grains. 
4  runs,  54f  grains. 


6  runs,  364.  grains. 

8  mns,  27j  grains. 

10  runs,  2  If  grains. 


Against  those  grains  in  the 
table,  we  find  the  yarn  would 
be  on  the  heavy  side  of  24; 
runs,  i.  e.  between  2£  and  2£, 
nearer  24.  runs. 


Against  those  grains  in  the 
table,  we  find  the  yarn  would  be 
on  the  light  side  of  24  runs. 


These  calculations  will  be  somewhat  imperfect,  as  the  weight  of 
the  twist  Avill  depend  somewhat  whether  they  are  hard  twisted  or 
slack  twisted.  Hard  twist  weighs  the  most.  The  surest  method 
would  be  to  weigh  the  twist,  after  the  desired  twist  has  been  ap- 
plied. 

1600  yards  makes  1  run  of  the  clock  attached  to  the  jack  (by 
which  spinners  are  usually  paid  for  their  labor),  without  regard 
to  the  size  of  the  yarn,  so  that  providing  there  was  no  clock  at- 
tached to  the  jack,  the  runs  for  the  spinner  could  be  determined 
by  weight  very  correctly.  Spinners  if  so  disposed,  can  oprmic 
upon  the  clock,  so  that  it  will  represent  that  several  runs  have 
been  made,  while  in  reality  the  jack  has  not  been  drawn  out,  nor 
a  yard  of  yarn  been  spun  ;  this  operation  upon  the  clock  is  called 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


83 


"  pumping."  By  understanding  the  spinner's  table  this  operation 
may  be  detected ;  for  the  size  of  yarn,  and  the  weight  of  yarn 
spun  having  been  known,  the  number  of  runs  for  the  clock  may 
be  calculated. 

The  following  table  shows  how  many  runs  for  the  clock  will  be 
made,  from  one  pound  of  spun  yarn  of  the  various  sizes;  it  also 
shows  how  many  more  yards  of  yarn  may  be  made  from  one 
pound  of  stock  when  fine  and  drawn  into  a  fine  thread,  as  every 
1  run  for  the  clock  makes  1600  yards  of  yarn,  same  as  1600 
threads  of  one  yard  in  length  each. 

SPINNING-    TABLE.-EXTENDED." 


RUNS.  I 
1 

^ 

14 


1  1600!  3 
li  2000  3J- 
U  ^400  3£* 
If  2800^  3| 

2  :3200  4 
2i  3600i  4i 
2|  4000  i  4| 
2f  4400 !  4f 


3  14800  5 
3i  J5200  5^ 
3^  :5600|  5l 
3|  6000i  5f 

4  6400i  6 
4i  6800J  6| 
4i  |7200l  6| 
4f  |7600i  6f 


8000' 
8400! 
8800J 
9200! 
9600S 

10000; 
6|  10400; 

6f  llOSOOi 


The  above  table  is  also  an  extension  of  the  spinning  table,  and 
shows  that  the  word  run  has  two  definitions.  We  say  a  yarn  is  4 
runs  when  speaking  of  its  size;  the  same  4  runs  also  says,  that 
one  pound  of  that  size  makes  4  runs  for  the  clock,  and  6400  yards 
of  yarn  same  as  6400  threads  of  1  yard  in  length  each.  The  above 
might  be  extended  to  16  runs,  but  is  sufficient  to  explain  the  idea 
intended.  By  referring  to  the  table,  the  number  of  runs  to  the 
pound  of  the  various  sizes  of  yarns  are  given ;  and  by  weighing 
each  set  of  bobbins  spun,  the  runs  may  be  calculated  as  follows : 

EXAMPLE. 

There  was  spun  on  the  jack  100  Ibs.  net  of  4  run  warp,  how  many  runs 
for  the  clock  ?  100  Ibs.  x  4,  as  1  ft.  of  that  size  makes  4  runs,  =  400  runs 
answer. 

Suppose  the  several  sets  of  yarn  weighs  120i  Ibs.  and  the  size  3J  runs, 
how  many  runs  for  the  spinner? 


84  AMEEICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTUREE. 


3Jruns  to  the  pound. 


36U 


391f,  ans. 

As  yarns  sometimes  are  on  the  heavy  or  light  side  of  regular 
sizes,  calculations  must  be  made  Avhich  will  average  accordingly. 


The  apothecary  scales  will  be  found  very  serviceable  when  mak- 
ing a  mixture.  JS"o  rule  can  be  given  or  table  arranged,  by  which 
a  good  mixture  of  two  or  more  colors  or  shades  may  be  united  to 
form  another  color  or  shade,  unless  the  different  colors  or  shades 
are  represented  by  colored  (stock)  samples.  If  a  copy  is  to  be 
taken  from  a  mixture,  some  idea  of  the  colors  or  shades  of  the 
combination  may  be  formed,  and  then  use  the  scales  as  follows : 
Suppose,  a  West  Point  cadet  mixture  is  desired  and  we  have  a 
sample  of  the  cloth ;  by  a  close  examination  there  appears  to  be 
three  colors  or  shades,  blue,  yellow  olive  and  red  claret;  the  blue 
predominates,  the  yellow  olive  and  red  claret  appear  about  equally 
divided,  so  that  we  will  weigh  10  grains  of  the  blue,  and  5  grains 
each  of  the  yellow  olive  and  red  claret;  and  to  mix  these  colors 
we  will  use  a  pair  of  cotton  hand  cards  (or  strippers),  and  will  < 
mix  them  thoroughly,  and  compare  with  sample.  Should  the 
mixture  be  Avhat  is  desired,  then  use  grains  for  pounds  and  lay 
out  stock  accordingly.  Or  should  the  mixture  not  be  shaded 
right,  add  more  or  less  of  the  colors  as  desired,  and  keep  account 
of  the  grains.  Should  the  cloth  finish  as  desired,  then  the  colors 
or  shades  may'be  arranged  in  a  book  for  that  purpose,  with  the 
pounds  of  each  taken,  and  if  making  many  mixtures,  by  keeping 
account  of  the  various  shades  and  colors,  we  can  have  a  perfect 
table  to  refer  to. 

These  scales  will  also  be  found  very  convenient  for  weighing 
and  calculating  the  weight  per  yard  for  cloths,  when  only  a  small 
sample  of  the  cloth  is  obtainable.  The  following  table  is  arranged 
for  weighing  one  square  inch,  and  is  based  upon  27  inches  wide. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


85 


TABLE  FOR  UUOLUDK  THE  WEIGHT  OF  CLOTHS  FROM  A  SQUARE  INCH, 


j  Grains. 

Ounces. 

Grains.    '•  Ounces.      Grains.  •  Ounces. 

Grains. 

Ounces. 

1 

2,20 

5 

11 

9      !     20 

13 

28*0  : 

2 

4,'. 

6 

m 

10      !     22 

14 

31  i  ; 

3 

6,". 

7 

15a5o 

11      i     24*, 

15 

33,1, 

4 

8,90 

8 

Hi 

12      |     26A 

16 

35,50 

Suppose  ytm  have  a  sample  of  cloth,  and  you  wish  to  know 
how  many  ounces  a  yard  of  the  cloth  will  weigh  of  three-quarters 
width  ;  cut  from  the  sample  one  square  inch  and  weigh  with  the 
scales.  Opposite  the  grains  in  the  next  column  will  be  found 
the  average  weight  per  yard  in  ounces  and  the  fractional  parts. 
As  for  instance,  suppose  a  square  inch  weighs  exactly  5  grains, 
then  one  yard  of  cloth  of  27  inches  wide  same  as  the  sample,  will 
weigh  11  ounces.  For  6  quarters  wide,  double  the  ounces  above 
given. 

Connected  with  this  department  usually  is  the  spooling  and 
dressing  of  the  yarn. 

SPOOLING. 

Care  should  be  taken  when  the  yarn  is  being  spooled,  to  have 
the  ends  securely  tied,  and  have  the  vibration  when  various  guides 
are  used  correctly  adjusted,  so  that  the  spools  will  be  wound 
evenly  from  the  bobbins,  and  thus  the  spools  will  unwind  evenly 
in  the  dressing  process,  which  is  of  much  importance. 


DRESSING. 

This  is  a  process  by  which  the  yarns  are  arranged  for  produc- 
ing the  patterns,  and  great  care  should  be  taken  to  have  them 
arranged  properly,  and  also  to  have  the  various  sections  reeled 
equally  alike  as  regards  tension,  and  avoid  letting  threads  run 
loosely,  and  have  the  lease  cords  correctly  put  in.  And  when  the 
yarn  is  sized,  be  sure  and  have  the  cylinders  sufficiently  heated  to 
dry  the  yarns;  for  perhaps  by  letting  them  be  improperly  dried 
and  not  woven  very  soon,  the  yarn  will  get  mildewed.  When 
winding  the  yarns  from  the  reel  upon  the  warp  beam,  have  the 
tension  to  all  the  sections  as  near  alike  as  possible. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


YARN     TABLE, 

Showing  the  weight  per  yard,  for  various  numbers  and  sizes  of  threads  of 
warp  and  filling.  In  the  left  hand  column  find  the  size  of  yarn,  and  at 
the  right  in  the  column  headed  by  ounces,  will  be  found  the  number 
of  threads  required  in  one  yard,  to  produce  the  weight  mentioned. 


Runs. 

1-10 
Oz 

Oz 

Oz 

Oz  '  Oz  Ox  Oz 

Oz  ;  Oz  Oz  Oz 

11   12   13   14   15   16 
Oz  Oz  i  Oz  Oz  I  Oz  \  Oz 

I 

i 

8* 

10 

g 

s 

100 

21X1 
250 
300 

200 
KXI 
.500 
600 
650 

300  400  500  600:  700  800  9001000 
600i  800  1000  1200  1400  1600  1800  2000 
750  i  1000  1250  1.VXI  1750  2000  2250  2500 
900J1200  1500  1800  2100  210027003000 
975  1300  1625  1950  2275  2600  2925  3250 

1100  1200  1300  1400'l500i1600 
2200  2400  fiOO  28(X)  3(XX)  3200 
2750  3000  3250  35«0  3750  4000 
3300  3600  3900  4200  4500  4800 
3575  3900  422.5  4550  1875  5200 

35!  350  700  105011400  1750  2100  2150  28(X)  3150  3500  3850  4200  4550  4!XX)  52m  5iiiin 

37:  375  750  1125  15IK>  1S75  2250  2025  3000  8875  8750  4125  15oO  1S75  5250  5fi25  fiOOO 

40  400  8IMI  1200  |r,00  20011  '.MOO  2800  3200  3(iOO  4(XX)  44IH)  4H(X)  52(X)  5ti(X)  6000 

42  425  8W1875  17002125  2550  2975  84QOi88S5  1250  u;75  5iOo  5525  5950 

45i  450,  900!l350il800  2250  2700  3150  3f,oo  10.50  1500  l-.i50  5400  5850: 

47  475  9.50  1425  1900  2375  2850  3325  :iS(X)  (275  1150  5225  5700  6175 

50  500  1000  1500  2(XK)  2.500  3000  3500  4000  451X1  5000  5.500  6000 

52  525  1050  1575  2100  2fi25  3150  3*175  1200  1725  5250  5775 ' 

55  550  1 100  ir,50  2200  2750  :;::nil  3S.50  I  too  11150  5500  ti()5o 

57  575  1150  1725  2300  2S5  3150  1025  4HOO  5175  5750 

(10  (KM)  120IP  I  SOI  I  2100  3000  3000  1200  (SCO  5100  (iOOOj 

ti2  625  12.iO  1875  2.500  3125  3750  (375  50HO  5(125  0250! 

65  650  1300  l!)50  2600  3250  3!HX)  1550  52IX)  5850 ; 

67  675  1350  2025  2700  '5375  HI50  172.5  5100  6075' 

70  700  1  toe  2100  -.'silo  :j.^K)  421X1  4!XK)  5600  6300 

72  725  1450  2175  2!«XI  3<i25  4350  5075  5800 

75 ;  750  1500  2250  3000  3;.50  4500  52.50  6000 

77  775  1550  2325  3100  3875  1650  5425  (5200 

80  800  1600  2400  3200  4000  4800  5600| 

82  825  1651 1  2 175  3300  1125  1H.50  5775! 

85  850  1700  255!)  3100  42.50  5100,5950! 

87  875  175U  2025  3500  1375  5250  6125 i 

90  900  1800  270(i  31100  150051006300 
'92  925  18502775  371x1  16255550! 

95'  950  1900  2850  3800  4750  5700 

97  975  1950  292.5  .7.100  1875  5850 
100  1000  2000  3000  4000  5000  6000 
lOSJOoO  2100  31. VI  4200  5250  6300 
110  1100  2200  3300  4400  5500 
115  1150  2300  3450  4600  5750 
120  1200  2400  3600  4800  6000 


The  preceding  yarn  table  will  be  found  to  assist  very  much 
when  proposing  yarns  for  warp  or  filling  when  a  certain  weight 
per  yard  is  desired,  and  the  size  of  the  yarn  is  known,  or  when  a 
certain  weight  is  desired,  and  the  number  of  threads  are  known  to 
find  what  size  yarn  will  produce  the  desired  weight,  &c.  The 
second  column  from  the  left,  shows  how  many  threads  are  required 
per  yard  of  a  certain  size,  to  weigh  1-10  of  an  ounce. 


.  —  Suppose  a  warp  of  2000  threads  of  four  run  yarn  is 
proposed;  how  many  ounces  per  yard  will  there  be  of  that  size 
yarn  ?  By  referring  to  four  run  yarn  in  a  column  opposite  will 
be  found  2000  threads,  and  at  the  head  of  that  column  stands  the 
figure  5,  denoting  five  ounces. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  87 


Suppose  a  doeskin  warp  is  desired  of  6£  run  yarn,  with  2350 
ends  in  the  warp  ;  what  weight  will  be  a  yard  of  warp  yarn  ?  Op- 
posite 6|  runs  in  the  fourth  column,  we  find  1950  ends  weigh 
three  ounces,  and  in  the  column  headed  ,0  of  an  ounce,  we  find 
that  65  threads  weigh  /„  of  an  ounce,  so  that  in  400  ends  we  get  6 
of  the  65  threads  and  10  over,  so  that  the  warp  would  be  on  the 
heavy  side  of  3?0  ounces.  For  filling,  suppose  we  wish  to  weave  a 
cloth  36  inches  wide  in  the  loom,  and  intend  to  put  in  70  picks 
per  inch  of  five  run  yarn,  what  will  be  the  weight  of  a  yard  of  the 
filling.  First  multiply  the  width  36  inches  by  70  picks  per  inch, 
and  we  find  there  will  be  2520  threads,  and  opposite  5  runs  in  the 
sixth  column  we  find  2500  threads  weigh  5  ounces,  so  that  2520 
threads  will  weigh  on  the  heavy  side  of  5  ounces  per  yard. 

The  weights  of  yarn,  &c.,  as  given  in  the  table  will  answer  as 
a  starting  point,  as  a  very  correct  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  va- 
rious sizes  and  numbers  of  threads  required  to  produce  a  certain 
weight.  But  these  weights  will  always  fall  short  a  little,  (as  was 
mentioned  in  part  first,  answer  to  question  No.  8,)  for  when  the 
warp  and  filling  are  united,  the  yarn  for  each  is  taken  up  in  the 
weaving  process,  so  that  a  yard  of  the  cloth  when  woven,  will 
weigh  from  one  to  three  ounces  more  than  the  yarn  calculations, 
as  per  table.  The  taking  up  of  the  warp  will  be  controlled  by  the 
size  of,  and  the  number  of  picks  of  filling  applied ;  and  the  tak- 
ing up  of  the  filling  depends  upon  the  number  of  threads  in  the 
warp  and  the  size  of  yarn.  Also  listing  threads  which  are  usually 
about  one  run,  increase  the  loom  weight  as  per  table  ;  10  threads 
of  one  run  yarn  weighs  ^  of  an  ounce,  so  that  50  threads  of  list- 
ing of  one  run  yarn  weighs  £  an  ounce.  The  weights  as  per  table 
will  come  nearer  the  finished  weight,  providing  no  flocks  are  ap- 
plied, as  there  is  a  reduction  in  weight  in  the  milling,  scouring, 
(extracting  the  oil),  gigging  and  shearing,  so  that  calculations 
made  from  the  table,  will  come  very  near  to  finished  weights  when 
no  flocks  are  used.  Thus  the  fact  is  presented  that  the  loom 
'  yards  and  weights,  will  be  the  safest  to  make  the  estimation*  for 
the  cost  of  the  stock,  &c.,  which  is  hereafter  explained. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


WEAVING     ROOM. 

This  department  is  considered  by  some  manufacturers  to  be 
most  important  of  all.  All  must  admit  it  is  of  much  importance. 
The  stock  is  here  gathered  and  the  various  colors,  qualities,  and 
quantities,  are  united  respectively  and  made  to  assume  the  appear- 
ance of  a  fabric.  The  stock  has  been  selected  to  make  the 
required  size  of  warp,  perhaps  ornamented  with  a  color  or  shade, 
reduced  to  yarn,  and  finally  appears  at  the  loom.  In  the  mean 
time  the  other  requisite  (the  filling)  is  in  process.  The  stock 
having  been  selected,  perhaps  ornamented  as  was  the  warp, 
reduced  to  yarn,  and  appears  already  to  be  united  with  the  warp, 
and  as  they  are  here  united  so  must  they  remain.  Thus  two 
important  points  may  be  clearly  determined,  which  are  to  have 
the  warp  made  conformable  to  meet  all  the  requirements,  such  as 
operating  evenly  and  smoothly,  and  without  unnecessary  break- 
ing, and  delay,  and  also  to  have  the  loom  properly  adjusted  so 
that  the  filling  will  be  properly  applied  to  suit  the  demands  of 
the  warp  and  fabric,  and  thus  avoid  making  many  of  the  imperfec- 
tions which  often  occur  in  this  process  by  the  omission  of  proper 
attention  in  these  directions.  Another  important  point  is  to  have 
skillful  loom  fixers,  and  operators  who  are  capable  of  keeping  the 
essential  parts  in  proper  running  order,  so  that  a  large  production 
of  yards  may  be  obtained ;  the  production  of  woven  yards  is  of 
great  importance.  A  large  production  shows  that  the  preceding 
departments  have  each  made  good  use  of  their  time  in  furnishing 
the  required  stock  necessary  to  bring  forth  a  large  production. 
The  larger  the  production  of  yards  from  the  looms  the  less  will  be 
the  average  cost  per  yard  for  nearly  all  the  expenses  connected 
with  the  business  excepting  the  expenses  for  stock  and  selling 
goods,  as  all  estimations  for  the  cost  of  goods  are  made  upon  a 
yard  and  by  the  yards  woven.  In  weaving  the  cloths  it  is  very 
important  that  they  be  made  the  proper  width  in  the  loom,  so  as 
to  receive  the  proper  felting  without  being  subjected  to  the  fric- 
tion, and  wearing  of  the  fulling  mill,  (in  next  department,)  to  an 
unnecessary  length  of  time,  before  they  are  reduced  to  the  desired 
width.  Cloths  which  are  of  an  open  or  slack  weave,  or  made 
with  much  slack  twisted  yarn  usually  require  less  time  in  the 
fulling  process,  than  those  of  hard  twisted  yarns  and  firmly  woven 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  89 

cloths.  The  former  would  usually  be  made  wider  than  the  latter 
when  much  fulling  is  desired.  Also  cloths  vyhich  are  heavily 
loaded  with  cotton  should  be  made  narrower,  as  cotton  is  not  a 
felting  material. 

Generally  speaking,  cloths  which  are  loaded  with  much  short 
stock  will  not  full  as  much  as  good  wool;  some  goods  demand 
much  felting  to  bring  them  up  to  the  desired  style  and  finish- 
Sound  judgment  is  required  on  the  part  of  the-  designer,  to  bring 
the  goods  to  the  proper  width,  weight,  &c.,  in  the  loom,  to  meet 
the  requirements  of  a  well  finished  fabric;  and  thus  it  may  be 
safely  stated  that  a  part  of  the  finishing  is  really  applied  in  the 
weaving.  Probably  in  no  other  department  is  the  close  attention 
of  a  skillful  overseer  so  much  required,  as  in  this. 

With  many  manufacturers,  a  custom  has  been  established  in 
favor  of  the  weaver,  which  is  to  allow  them  to  leave  out  a  few  picks 
per  inch  of  filling,  as  for  instance,  a  piece  of  cloth  is  to  be  woven 
with  60  picks  of  filling ;  the  price  per  yard  for  60  picks  may  be 
six  cents,  and  the  weaver  instead  of  putting  in  those  60  picks,  ac- 
cording to  custom,  puts  in  56  or  perhaps  50 ;  there  will  be  a  sav. 
ing  of  a  little  filling,  and  a  little  rise  in  the  cost  of  weaving,  as 
the  cost  of  weaving  55  picks  would  be  about  a  quarter  of  one  cent 
less.  This  custom  may  be  well  enough,  but  there  are  always  some 
to  take  advantage  of  a  little  privilege.  I  have  known  weavers  who 
Avere  paid  for  40  picks,  to  actually  leave  out  10  picks  to  the  inch 
in  some  parts  of  a  cut,  and  the  consequence  of  such  uneven  weav- 
ing, is  cockled  and  imperfect  finished  cloth.  Such  a  weaver  is 
committing  a  dead  fraud  upon  his  employer.  Such  weaving  is 
more  apt  to  be  carried  on  when  the  weave  room  is  not  well  sup- 
plied with  a  competent  overseer,  who  is  capable  of  judging  such 
cloth  at  sight,  when  perching  or  looking  over. 

Care  should  also  be  taken  to  have  the  yarn  correctly  drawn 
into  the  heddles,  and  also  into  the  proper  reed  and  correctly,  and 
also  use  good  heddles.  The  improved  heddles  made  by  Messrs. 
Hertle  &  Thompson,  (see"  card,  part  third),  are  a  superior  article. 
Any  improvements  which  tend  to  increase  the  production  of 
yards  from  the  looms  arc  of  much  importance,  providing  the 
cloths  are  suitably  finished,  properly  designed,  and  all  other  re- 
quisites fully  complied  with  necessary  to  produce  a  good  fabric, 
for  which  a  good  pric^  may  be  obtained,  and  a  profit  realized. 
'  12 


90  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


FINISHING    ROOM. 

The  next,  and  usually  the  last  in  the  series  of  departments  con- 
nected with  the  manufacturing  appears  this  department,  and  as 
with  all  the  others  it  is  of  great  importance.  For,  providing  the 
stock  was  properly  selected,  colored,  and  treated  in  all  the  other 
departments,  and  appears  in  this  room  in  the  form  of  a  perfect 
unfinished  fabric,  by  improper  treatment  it  may  be  almost  entirely 
spoiled.  A  good  and  suitable  finish  applied  to  any  manufactured 
article,  has  a  tendency  to  improve  its  general  appearance  and  sell- 
ing qualities. 

The  leading  and  principal  department  for  some  cloths  is  the 
finishing,  especially  for  highly  finished  face  cloths.  A  good  finish 
will  also  very  often  remedy  defects  resulting  from  improper  opera- 
tions in  some  other  department.  The  various  processes  to  which 
the  cloths  are  subjected  in  this  department,  each  require  care, 
good  judgment  and  skill. 


FULLING.  OR  FELTING  AND  FLOCKING. 

Upon  the  fulling  or  felting  process,  depends  very  much  .the 
compactness  and  good  handling  qualities  of  the  fabric.  There 
are  two  important  senses  called  into  use  when  a  sample  of  cloth 
is  displayed,  and  which  ttre  the  principal  senses  used  for  judging 
nicely  of  any  performance  or  production,  namely,  seeing  and  feel- 
ing. If  a  fabric  is  composed  of  color  or  colors,  they  may  make  a 
favorable  impression  upon  the  mind  through  the  eye  by  being 
clear,  bright,  well  arranged  and  combined.  But  these  favorable 
impressio'ns  may  be  greatly  diminished  by  a  sleazy,  harsh,  and 
infirm  feeling. 

A  closely  united  and  firm  fabric  will  depend  very  much  upon 
a  proper  fulling,  i.  e.,  providing  it  was  properly  woven,  so  that 
the  proper  fulling  may  be  applied,  and  the  clearness  and  bright- 
ness of  the  color  or  cojors,  depend  very  much  upon  the  scouring, 
gigging,  and  also  somewhat  upon  the  fulling,  i.  e.,  providing  they 
were  produced  from  the  dye  house  correctly,  and  were  not  im- 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  91 

paired  by  mixing  wiih  other  and  worthless  colors.  Care  should  be 
taken  when  flocks  are  liberally  applied,  not  to  have  them  get  upon 
the  face  of  the  cloths ;  also  cloths  of  an  open  or  slack  weave,  when 
they  are  not  correctly  applied,  they  will  work  through  and  show 
upon  the  face.  Flocks  are  not  an  article  which  improve  the  appear- 
ance of  colors  or  the  face  of  cloths  generally,  their  tendency  is  to 
improve  the  handling  qualities  when  applied  in  reasonable  quan- 
tities, and  also  their  weight. 


APPLYING    SOAPS. 

Care  should  be  taken  when  applying  soaps.  To  apply  soaps  in 
fulling  and  scouring  processes  in  a  scientific,  economical  and  sys- 
tematic manner,  the  strength  of  the  solution  when  being  prepared 
for  use,  should  be  regularly  tested  by  the  Hydrometer  (Twaddle's), 
especially  for  scouring ;  and  when  the  proper,  degrees  of  strength 
which  will  meet  the  required  demand,  and  the  best  soap  have  been 
determined,  then  a  certain  degree  of  strength  may  be  regularly 
applied,  and  thus  clean  cloths  will  be  produced  without  injuring 
stock  or  colors.  There  are  also  many  kinds  of  soaps  made  and 
used  for  fulling  and  scouring  purposes,  some  of  which  have  been 
found  injurious  to  stock  and  colors,  and  which  will  be  referred  to 
hereafter. 

The  application  of  soap  in  the  fulling  process,  depends  some- 
what upon  the  methods  adopted.  Some  manufacturers  full  in 
the  grease,  (i.  e.,  full  the  cloths  before  scouring),  others  full  clean, 
(i.  e.,  full  the  cloths  after  scouring.)  Most  of  our  manufacturers 
who  bear  the  reputation  of  making  the  finest  and  best  grades  full 
clean ;  this  process  requires  a  third  process  which  is  washing,  and 
thus  more  time  and  labor  is  required,  and  no  doubt  it  is  for  that 
reason  that  the  later  method  is  not  more  commonly  adopted.  In 
most  cases  for  either  method,  the  soap  (solution)  employed  for 
fulling,  does  not  require  a  strength  of  alkali  sufficient  to  sustain 
even  one  degree  of  the  Hydrometer ;  but  the  soap  should  be  a 
pure,  good  bodied  soap,  which  will  unite  with  the  stock,  relax  the 
oil,  and  moisten  the  fabric  thoroughly  and  .thus  support  the  felt- 
iug.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  apply  too  much  soap,  (especially 


92  .AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

when  fulling  with  the  rotary  mills),  so  as  to  produce  a  lather  and 
cause  the  rollers  to  slip  on  the  pieces  and  wear  them,  instead  of 
drawing  them  between  the  rollers  and  thus  produce  the  required 
friction  and  heat,  necessary  to  produce  a  good  felt.  Cloths  fulled 
clean  will  also  take  flocks  better  than  when  fulled  in  the  grease. 

When  fulling  in  the  grease,  the  same  care  should  be  taken  not 
to  use  too  much  soap,  nor  have  it  too  hot  or  too  strong,  and  the 
same  (neutral)  pure  good  bodied  soap  is  the  best  for  this  method, 
(as  well  as  the  other),  as  the  felting  principles  are  alike.  Some- 
times when  the  cloths  are  closely  woven,  and  do  not  contain  deli- 
cate colors  or  shades,  as  the  beaver,  doeskin,  &c.,  one  degree  of 
alkaline  strength  may  be  applied  without  injury,  and  in  some  cases 
where  much  waste  is  used,  one.  degree  may  be  required  to  start 
the  grease  a  little,  and  also  start  the  felting.  Generally  when  a 
degree  or  more  of  strength  (alkali)  is  applied  in  the  fulling,  less 
strength  is  required  for  scouring;  and  when  the  grease  is  well 
started  in  fulling,  care  must  be  taken  when  scouring.  It  would 
be  best  to  commence  washing  with  the  water  moderately  warm 
in  the  washer,  and  let  the  cloths  run  in  that  until  the  soap  and 
grease  are  well  loosened  before  the  cold  water  is  let  in.  It  is  gen- 
erally considered  that  one  degree  of  strength  applied  in  the  fulling, 
is  about  the  same  as  2  or  2-i  degrees  applied  in  scouring,  as  regards 
starting  the  grease  and  colors;  thus  the  fact  is  presented  that  it 
is  body  and  ability  required  in  the  fulling  soap,  and  not  the 
strength  of  alkali  to  produce  the  best  results. 

As  has  been  previously  mentioned,  care  should  be  taken  to  have 
the  cloths  made  a  proper  width  in  the  loom,  so  that  they  may  not 
be  exposed  to  the  friction,  pulling  and  wearing  of  the  fulling  mill, 
to  an  unnecessary  space  of  time,  as  the  rotary  mills  more  com- 
monly in  use  at  the  present  day,  are  rather  more  trying  to  the 
strength  of  cloths  than  the  old  fulling  stocks.  I  have  seen  cloths 
made  from  good  fleece  wool,  and  well  woven,  and  apparently 
strong,  made  tender  in  the  process  of  fulling  in  the  rotary  mills, 
owing  to  their  having  been  set  too  wide  in  the  loom,  and  thus  re- 
quired too  much  pulling  and  wearing  before  they  were  fulled  to 
the  required  width  ;  and  cloths  from  the  same  warp  were  fulled 
with  the  fulling  stocks  and  came  out  strong  and  perfectly  felted. 
The  pieces  should  be  overhauled  occasionally  during  the  milling- 
process,  and  stretched  width-ways  so  a»  to  avoid  mill'  creases, 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  93 


which  make   a  very  bad  imperfection,  us   they  extend  length- 
ways and  thus  are  liable  to  damage  several  yards  in  succession. 

Cloths  which  are  to  be  flocked  in  the  fulling  mill,  should  have 
the  edges  sewed  or  tacked  with  strong  twine  length-ways,  at  regu- 
lar intervals  of  two  or  three  feet,  with  their  face  inside,  which 
will  keep  the  flocks  from  the  face  of  the  goods.  There  have  been 
several  machines  invented  for  applying  flocks  to  cloths  on  the 
brushing  principle.  These  machines  have  not  thus  far  proved  a 
success.  For  one  piece  of  three  quarter  goods  from  30  to  35  yards 
in  length,  weighing  from  11  to  13  ounces  per  yard  in  the  flannel 
from  2  to  24  pails  full  of  soap  will  usually  wet  the  pieces  sufficient- 
ly to  start  the  fulling ;  for  heavier,  wider,  and  closely  woven  cloths, 
apply  soap  accordingly.  The  soap  should  be  applied,  slowly, 
evenly,  and  moderately  warm. 


SCOURING    OR    WASHING. 

Cloths  in  this  process  are  usually  treated  to  a  liberal  application 
of  soap,  and  sound  judgment  is  required  in  the  person  who  is 
entrusted  to  make  this  application,  as  it  should  be  in  a  skillful 
and  economical  manner.  As  there  are  many  kinds  of  soaps,  man- 
ufactured and  used  for  this  process,  the  same  desire  seems  to 
prevail  among  soapmakers,  as  among  other  manufacturers  and 
dealers,  viz  :  the  desire  to  adulterate.  And  thus  it  remains  with 
the  consumer  to  devise  ways  and  means  to  detect  the  honesty  of 
the  soapmaker.  Among  the  soaps  in  use  we  have  the  so  called 
neutral  soap,  containing  a  good  body,  and  ability,  and  which  is 
the  safest,  most  reliable,  and  economical  soap  for  fulling,  and  a 
soap  which  contains  those  two  essential  qualities  will  also  be 
found  equally  as  good  for  scouring,  as  the  same  soap  will  be  able 
to  carry  a  great  quantity  of  alkali  when  it  is  required,  and  still 
have  a  surplus  oflbody  and  ability  remaining  to  facilitate  the  ope- 
rations. There  are  also  other  soaps  for  which  no  name  can  be 
given,  some  of  which  are  heavily  loaded  with  rosin,  clay,  ivater, 
sal  soda,  soda  ash,  salt,  &c.,  and  as  one  soapmaker  has  said  with 
lightning;  some  one  or  two  of  the  above  mentioned  articles  may 
be  required  to  form  the  alkali  which  is  required.  It  may  well 


'  94  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

and  truly  be  said,  that  the  colors  are  usually  put  to  their  severest 
test  in  this  process,  and  we  may  also  say  the  stock  sometimes. 
Rosin  and  clay  are  not  articles  which  have  a  tendency  to  benefit  a 
woolen  fabric  in  any  shape  or  form,  (water  will  be  referred  to 
hereafter,)  soda  ash  is  not  an  article  to  be  recommended  for  gene- 
ral use  upon  cloths  Avhich  are  made  of  good  stock,  with  various 
colors  and  shades,  as  when  used  in  liberal  quantities  it  is  excess- 
ively severe  upon  both  stock  and  colors,  and  has  a  tendency  to 
make  the  cloths  feel  harsh  and  wiry,  and  destroy  the  colors  or 
tone  them  down  very  much«  Sal  soda,  (soda  ash  ammoniaized) 
is  far  more  excellent  or  desirable  than  any  other  of  the  alkaline 
materials  generally  used,  its  tendency  is  to  make  the  cloths  feel  soft, 
and  is  not  severe  upon  colors  when  used  moderately  and  properly; 
salt  is  not  an  article-  which  is  to  be  recommended  for  general  use 
as  an  alkali,  it  contains  soda  and  muriatic  acid,  (more  soda  than 
acid,  and  more  water  than  either.)  Again  saUsoda,  soda  ash, 
and  salt  may  be  obtained  at  a  less  cost  than  by  paying  the  usual 
soap  prices  for  them,  as  we  do  when  buying  them  in  some  of  the 
heavily  loaded  scouring  soaps.  I  think  this  article  of  soap  which 
appears  in  the  class  of  necessary  supplies  is  often  overlooked  by 
many  of  the  manufacturers,  and  is  not  very  well  understood  by 
many  of  their  finishers.  And  as  manufacturers  generally  depend 
upon  their  finishers  for  their  reports  upon  them,  it  may  be  well 
enough  for  them  to  be  sure  that  said  finishers  are  capable  of 
judging  in  a  scientific  manner  of  their  essential  qualities  and 
abilities.  There  are  many  finishers  who  make  up  their  soap 
solutions  by  guess  vvork,  or  perhaps  by  the  taste  of  it,  to  decide  its 
strength,  which  is  guess  work.  A  cook  may  be  able  to  flavor  a 
soup  by  the  sense  of  tasting,  but  it  is  no  rule  for  a  finisher  to  go 
by.  Again  some  finishers  will  use  about  the  same  number  of 
pounds  of  soap  for  a  boiling  (solution)  and  pay  no  attention  to  its 
qualities  and  will  add  about  the  usual  weight  or  amount  of  sal 
soda  or  soda  ash,  whether  it  may  happen  to  be  a  pure  and  neutral 
or  a  heavily  charged  alkali  soap,  and  then  if  th«  colors  are  injured 
condemn  the  soap,  or  if  the  cloths  are  not  produced  clean  con- 
demn the  soap,  and  if  the  grease  is  not  easily  started  keep  apply- 
ing the  soap  till  it  does  start;  such  methods  are  applying  the 
profits  of  an  establishment  to  the  trench.  Again  some  finishers 
think  they  must  use  both  sal  soda  and  soda  ash,  and  if  they  get 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  95 


out  of  sal  soda  will  use  the  same  quantity  of  soda  ash  to  make  up; 
they  are  probably  not  aware  of  the  fact  that  one  pound  of  soda  ash, 
will  produce  nearly  three  times  the  alkaline  strength  of  the  same 
weight  of  sal  soda,  in  the  same  quantity  of  water.  The  only  safe 
and  systematic  method  for  using  soap,  is  to  use  the  hydrometer, 
and  with  the  aid  of  it,  and  by  observing  the  results  obtained  by 
using  the  various  soaps,  manufacturers  can  detect  the  honesty  of 
the  soapmaker,  and  by  experimenting  with  the  different  soaps  they 
may  be  able  to  make  out  very  correct  estimates  of  what  soap  it  is 
for  their  advantage  to  use,  as  regards  cost,  as  well  as  to  meet  the 
wants  of  their  particular  class  of  goods.  Uniformity  in  soap  is 
of  as  much  importance  as  in  drugs,  dye  stuffs,  oils,  &c.  A  finisher 
can  produce  better  work  by  using  one  kind  and  quality  of  soap 
continually,  providing  it  is  made  honestly,  (i.  e.  uniform  in  quality) 
as  then  he  is  better  able  to  judge  of  the  treatment  necessary 
to  have  his  cloths  always  clean,  colors  bright,  and  the  goods 
feeling  soft  and  smooth. 

The  mistaken  ideas  of  some  manufacturers  often  lead  them  to 
buy  what  they  would  call  a  cheap  soap,  the  cheapness  of  which 
they  determine  by  the  price  paid  per  pound.  But  the  simple 
instance  as  is  shown  by  the  following  statement  of  a  test  trial,  to 
show  the  average  cost  per  piece  of  cloth  for  a  soap  which  would  be 
called  by  some  comparatively  dear,  and  another  which  would  be 
called  comparatively  cheap,  will  show  such  buyers  how  dear,  what 
they  would  call  a  cheap  soap  may  prove  to  be. 

I  recommend  a  neutral  soap  to  contain  a  good  body  and  ability 
to  carry  alkali,  and  thus  I  may  add  an  alkali  as  I  desire,  to  suit 
the  class  of  goods  I  make.  And  I  have  made  estimations,  in  a 
scientific  manner,  and  I  think  such  a  soap  is  the  cheapest,  al- 
though the  first  cost  of  such  soaps  are  usually  the  highest. 

The  previous  remarks  on  the  economy  of  buying  a  neutral  soap, 
lead  me  to  give  the  result  of  a  test  made  between  a  pure  neu-tral 
good  bodied  soap,  and  one  pretty  well  loaded  with  alkali,  &c. 
And  I  will  mention  only  the  name  of  the  party  who  are  favored 
by  the  statement. 

There  was  taken 


96  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

17H  fts.  of  Dobbin's  Electric  Soap  9|  cts.  per  ft.,  $16.30 

100       "      Soda  Ash,                 -     4|  "      "  4.50 

22       "       Sal  Soda,                        3     li      •'  .66 

8       "      Salt, .13 


$21.59 

with  this  solution  there  was  scoured  300  pieces  of  three  quarters 
width  fancy  cassimeres,  at  an  average  cost  of  7  and  ^  cents  per 
piece. 

There  was  taken 

260  fts.  of  soap  made  by  another  Co.,  5£  cts.  per  ft.  $14.30 

50     "     "     Soda  Ash,  4£    "    "     "       2.25 

12     "    "     Sal  Soda,         -  -      3    "    "     «         .36 

4    «    "     Salt,         -t  -        -      .06 


$16.97 
The  above  is  every  pound  of  alkali  it  would  carry. 

With  this  solution  there  was  scoured  164  pieces  of  goods  of  the 
same  width,  weight,  and  length,  as  those  scoured  with  Dobbin's 
Electric,  and  at  a  cost  of  10  and  ^  cents  per  piece. 

Difference 'in  favor  of  Dobbin's  Electric  Soap,  3  and  ^  cents 
per  piece,  this  saving  on  a  production  of  40  or  more  pieces  per 
day  would  foot  up  quite  a  sum  in  a  year. 

These  statements  show  though  rather  anomalous  that  a  9£ 
cent  neutral  good  bodied  soap,  is  cheaper  even  for  scouring  than 
a  5£  cent  soap  heavily  loaded  with  some  worthless  mixture,  and 
verifies  my  statement  as  to  the  economy  of  buying  a  pure  good 
bodied  soap,  to  which  an  alkali  may  be  added  for  scouring  pur- 
poses, and  equal  or  better  results  obtained  at  a  less  cost  than 
by  buying  some  of  the  cheap  soaps  manufactured  purposely  for 
scouring.  The  5£  cent  soap  as  per  statement  was  made  by  a 
company  who  have  the  reputation  of  making  good  soaps.  For 
the  purpose  of  adding  more  weight  to  my  remarks  upon  a  neutral 
good  bodied  soap,  &c.,  and  to  show  that  such  a  soap  is  not  neces- 
sarily confined  to  any  one  kind  or  class  of  goods,  I  will  mention 
what  some  of  our  well  known  practipal  manufacturers  say  as  to 
the  merits  of  such  a  soap.  The  information  thus  obtained  and 
given  was  addressed  from  them  directly  to  the  author  (by  corre- 


AMEEICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  97 

spon deuce,)  and  they  each  say  respectively  as  follows  :  Mr.  S.  J. 
Chaffee,  Superintendent  of  the  New  England  Company  of  Rock- 
ville,'  Connecticut,  says : 

"  We  use  Dobbin's  Electric  Soap  because  its  felting  .properties 
are  better,  and  also  it  goes  further  pound  for  pound  than  any 
soap  we  ever  used." 

Mr.  R.  D.  Nesmith,  Superintendent  of  the  Woodvale  Woolen 
Mill,  Johnstown,  Pa.,  says :.  "With  the  use  of  Dobbin's  Electric 
Soap  we  get  our  goods  clean  without  injury  to  the  colors  or 
staple  of  wool,  and  cheerfully  give  it  the  preference  to  any  soap 
we  ever  used." 

Messrs.  Damon,  Smith  &  Co.,  Westvale,  Massachusetts,  one  of 
the  largest  firms  in  this  country  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
flannels,  say :  "  We  have  used  the  Dobbin's  Electric  Soap  for 
more  than  a  year.  We  like  the  soap,  and  have  found  it  to  be  a 
cheap  and  uniform  article,  and  shall  continue  to  use  it  as  long 
as  it  maintains  its  present  quality." 

Mr.  James  Kitcheuman,  manufacturer  of  all  styles  and  grades 
of  carpets,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  says :  "Dobbin's  Electric  Soap  on 
carpet  colors  answers  my  purpose,  and  is  to  be  recommended." 

Mr.  N.  Eels,  Superintendent  of  the  Hamilton  Mill,  Paterson, 
N.  J.,  engaged  in  manufacturing  nice  shawls,  yarns,  &c.,  says ; 
"  I  have  used  nothing  else  but  Dobbin's  Electric  Soap  for  the  last 
eight  months,  and  it  gives  me  better  satisfaction  for  washing 
shawls,  and  keeping  colors  up  as  wanted,  than  any  other  used 
before.  In  my  opinion,  the  above  mentioned  soap  is  the  best  in 
market  for  shawls,  and  by  trying,  parties  will  find  it  so." 

The  soap  referred  to  by  the  preceding  manufacturers,  is  the 
same  as  referred  to  in  the  "  Test  Trial,"  and  which  sboAvs  that  it 
contains  the  necessary  qualifications  to  operate  satisfactorily  upon 
Fancy  Cassimeres,  Flannels,  Carpets,  Shawls,  Yarns,  &c. 

Dobbin's  Electric  Soap  is  manufactured  by  Messrs  I.  L.  Cragin 
&  Co.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  It  is  cut  for  consumers  into  thin  ^shav- 
ings, and  the  water  is  very  effectually  dried  out,  and,  thus  you 
pay  for  actual  weight  when  dry,  at  the  uniform  price  of  9|  cents 
per  pound.  And  thus  you  buy  a  soap  containing  body  and  ability, 
instead  of  a  surplus  of  alkali  and  water,  for  it  is  on  the  last  men- 
tioned article  (which  costs  nothing),  that  manufacturers  are 
13 


AMEEICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTUREE. 


sometimes  very  badly  cheated.  Chemistry  has  discovered  that 
soaps  have  a  strong  attraction  for  water  and  consequently  always 
retain  a  considerable  quantity  in  their  composition.  Ami  that 
the  proportions  in  the  best  hard  soaps  vary  from  25  to  30  per  ct. 
and  that  it  is  possible  to  prepare  a  solid  soap  containing  more 
than  its  own  weight  of  water.  And  this  fact  is  no  doubt  known 
to  dealers  as  some  of  them  store  their  soaps  in  cellars  and  damp 
places,  since  it  is  for  their  interest  if  not  known  to  consumers, 
to  sell  as  large  a  proportion  of  combined  water  as  possible.  But 
how  are  the  pecuniary  interests  of  the  consumer  affected  by  buy- 
ing a  surplus  of  water  at  from  3  to  6  cents  per  pound.  The 
hydrometer  in  the  hands  of  a  skillful  workman  who  understands 
the  results  which  are  obtained  from  a  given  weight  of  good  soap 
will  soon  detect  the  extent  of  adulterations  in  soap. 


WATER  AND  ITS  EFFECT  ON  SOAP. 

The  water  employed  in  connection  with  soap  produces  a  variety 
of  actions,  and  water  is  thus  familiarly  spoken  of  as  hard  and 
soft,  according  to  its  action  on  soap.  The  hard  waters  usually 
found  in  the  western  country  contain  compounds  of  lime  and 
magnesia,  and  would  be  called  hard.  And  these  earths  produce 
with  the  fat  of  the  soap  a  substance  which  is  hardly  soluble,  and 
occasion  a  curdling  of  the  soap ;  soft  waters  do  not  contain 
these  earths  and  unite  with  soap  without  difficulty.  It  is  no 
doubt  the  presence  of  these  earths  which  cause  the  difficulty 
experienced  by  western  manufacturers  when  scouring  or  washing 
the  oils  from  their  fabrics,  requiring  an  excessively  caustic  alka- 
line soap  to  make  any  impression.  For  if  the  soap  is  curdled 
and  not  properly  held  in  solution  it  will  be  a  hard  matter  to 
make  it  unite  with  the  oil  in  the  fabric  and  produce  the  required 
saponification.  Suppose  the  soap  solution  to  have  been  well  made 
and  applied  to  the  fabric,  and  a  good  lather  produced  and  the  oil 
effectually  started,  and  then  to  wash  off  the  soap  and  dirt,  the 
hard  water  to  be  applied ;  the  hard  water  instead  of  cleansing 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  99 

the  remaining  soap  and  dirt  from  the  fabric  which  is  desirable, 
would  tend  to  curdle  it  and  set  it  in  the  fabric  instead  of  remov- 
ing it  effectually.  Many  hard  waters  become  soft  by  boiling,  the 
heat  expelling  the  substances  which  held  the  earths,  and  they  are 
deposited  upon  the  sides  of  the  interior  of  the  boiler  or  tank, 
forming  an  encrustation.  Thus  the  idea  is  presented  that  by 
boiling  a  hard  water  or  even  warming  it,  it  would  overcome  a 
great  difficulty,  and  a  little  expense  incurred  for  that  purpose, 
would  no  doubt  prove  an  economical  expenditure. 


TO  TEST  THE   HARDNESS  OF  A  WATER. 

WELLS  PRINCIPLES  OF  CHEMISTRY. 

"  The  hardness  of  a  water  may  He  easily  tested  by  adding  to  it  a 
few  drops  of  a  solution  of  soap  in  alcohol ;  if  the  water  remains 
clear  it  is  perfectly  soft,  if  it  becomes  cloudy  it  may  be  regarded 
as  hard,  and  the  degree  of  hardness  being  proportioned  to  the  de- 
gree of  cloudiness  occasioned,"  in  the  ordinary  waters  of  the  east, 
(soft  waters.) 

When  a  good  oil  has  been  applied  to  the  stock,  a  soap  solution  of 
sufficient  strength  to  sustain  about  2%  or  3  degrees  of  the  Hydrom- 
eter has  been  found  a  safe  strength  for  scouring  when  the  colors 
are  not  very  delicate,  and  will  not  injure  stock.  But  as  was  pre- 
viously stated  when  scouring  after  fulling,  and  one  or  more  de- 
grees of  strength  was  applied  in  that  process,  then  usually  less 
strength  is  required  in  scouring,  and  Avhen  scouring  before  full- 
ing generally  a  little  more  alkaline  strength  is  required ;  should 
a  strong  soap  happen  to  be  applied  in  the  fulling,  care  would 
would  have  to  be  taken  in  scouring,  and  not  apply  a  strong  soap 
especially  if  there  are  colors  or  the  stock  is  any  object;  sometimes 
only  warm  water  is  necessary  in  this  process,  in  fact  Avarm  water 
only  should  be  used,  because  if  the  grease  was  effectually  started 
and  the  piece  had  become  cool,  cold  water  would  set  the  remain- 
ing grease  very  firmly.  Also  less  alkaline  strength  is  usually  re- 
quired when  the  borax  solution,  as  was  mentioned  in  the  Picking 


100  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


Room,  was  applied  with  the  oil,  as  that  solution  tends  to  break 
the  oil,  and  also  produces  a  soap  solution  to  a  certain  extent- 
Soap  solutions  should  be  tested  by  the  Hydrometer,  when  about 
to  a  hand  heat  or  a  little  warmer  is  no  objection.  For  one  piece 
of  three-quarters  goods  as  was  mentioned  in  fulling,  from  1^  to 
2  pails  full  of  soap  will  usually  answer  to  start  the  grease  and  dirt, 
but  a  lather  is  what  a  finisher  desires  to  see,  and  then  he  is  usually 
very  sure  the  soap  is  working  correctly  upon  the  applied  oil,  re- 
moving it  from  the  fabric,  and  that  when  washed  it  will  be  clean. 


SOAP  FOR  SOLUTIONS. 

An  ordinary  pail  full  of  good  fulling  soap  dissolved  and  boiled 
in  from  40  to  45  gallons  of  water  will  usually  make  a  good  bodied 
solution  for  fulling  use  as  previously  directed.  And  about  16  or 
20  pounds  of  good  scouring  soap  dissolved  and  boiled  in  from  40 
to  45  gallons  of  water,  will  make  a  good  bodied  solution,  for  the 
alkali;  when  more  is  desired  add  sal  soda.  To  make  a  scouring 
solution  of  the  Dobbin's  Electric  soap  less  weight  of  soap  is 
required  than  when  using  the  heavily  loaded  alkaline  soaps. 


TO  NEUTRALIZE  HARD  WATER. 

The  following  plan  would  be  a  good  one  for  hard  waters  for 
Western  Manufacturers;  have  a  cask  or  vat  capable  of  holding 
from  two  to  six  barrels  of  water,  according  to  the  size  of  the  mill, 
situated  near  the  washer.  Have  the  supply  pipe  near  the  top,  and 
the  draAv  off  pipe  at  the  bottom  of  the  cask  or  vat  ;  have  the 
draw  off  pipe  so  arranged,  that  the  water  may  be  brought  to  the 
washer,  so  that  the  water  may  be  applied  directly  upon  the  pieces 
when  they  are  revolving  around  the  rollers  ;  perhaps  if  a  sprinkler 
should  be  attached  to  the  end  of  the  pipe,  so  that  the.  water  would 
be  applied  evenly  upon  the  pieces  it  would  be  best.  Introduce  a 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  101 

steam  pipe  into  the  cask  to  heat  the  Avater,  or  any  other  effectual 
method;  as  soon  as  the  cloths  have  run  in  the  soap  and  a  good 
lather  obtained  and  the  grease  has  been  started,  let  off  the  soap 
and  let  on  the  warm  water  from  the  cask,  at  the  same  time  let 
cold  water  into  the  cask,  and  by  the  time  they  have  run  in  the 
warm  water  and  have  got  Avell  cleaned,  the  cold  water  will  begin 
to  appear,  and  by  letting  them  run  in  the  cold  water  awhile,  they 
will  come  out  bright  and  clean.  A  very  good  method  for  restor- 
ing acid  shades  when  nearly  spoiled  by  excessive  alkali,  will  be 
found  in  the  Dye  House  remarks. 


GIGGING. 
i 

The  cloths  after  scouring  and  washing  are  usually  partially  dried 
by  the  extractor,  (and  sometimes  are  dried)  and  are  ready  for  the 
gigging  process.  Great  care  should  be  exercised  in  this  operation. 
Some  cloths  will  bear  several  slats  of  fresh  teazles  and  some  will 
not.  Fresh  sharp  teazles  will  wear  a  cloth  so  that  it  will  soon  be 
tender  unless  it  is  a  very  firmly  woven,  well  felted  fabric.  When 
a  thick  heavy  nap  is  desired,  there  should  not  be  only  one  or  two 
slats  of  fresh  teazles  in  the  cylinder  to  commence  with,  and  the 
pieces  should  occasionally  be  turned,  i,  e.,  run  th'e  other  way,  and 
as  the  nap  is  raised  from  the  bottom,  a  few  fresh  slats  may  be 
added.  Some  finishers  think  there  is  no  benefit  derived  by  turn- 
ing the  pieces,  (reversing  the  nap.)  But  the  idea  is  entertained  by 
some  of  our  best  manufacturers,  that  cloths  finished  so  as  to  have 
a  little  nap,  feel  softer  and  handle  better  when  they  are  reversed 
during  the  process. 

When  Avhat  is  called  a  thread  or  bare  finish  is  desired,  the 
quicker  the  nap  is  raised  the  better  the  goods  will  look ;  in  which 
case,  no  bottom  or  fine  nap  is  desired,  and  the  pieces  Avould  not  want 
to  be  turned  or  reversed  during  the  process/ as  a  short  rfap  will 
make  a  thread  finish  appear  as  though  not  well  cleared  out,  and 
the  colors  will  not  show  bright  and  clear. 

Great  care  must  be  taken  when  gigging  cloths  which  contain 
ribs  or  raised  figures,  as  the  surface  of  the  ribs,  &c.,  are  sometimes 


102  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

scratched  off,  and  the  furrow  or  ground  work  is  not  well  cleared 
out.  Silk  mixtures  will  not  usually  bear  sharp  teazles.  Gener- 
ally speaking,  when  a  pattern  demands  much  gigging,  the  opera- 
tion should  commence  with  dull  teazles,  or  with  perhaps  one  or 
two  fresh  slats,  and  so  on. 

Cloths  which  contain  colored  cotton  should  be  dried  as  soon  as 
possible,  as  they  stain  very  easily  if  remaining  wet  long.  The 
sun  and  air  are  usually  called  the  best  agents  for  drying  cloths, 
as  they  usually  feel  better  and  handle  better,  than  when  dried  on 
some  of  the  drying  machines. 


i\         $L      $  t- 

rnu,   Jteatnfl,   jMeam  fmtmunjg,  &e. 

a  *J  ^K 

SHEARING  is  also  an  important  operation,  as  the  shear  is  a  com- 
plicated machine,  and  skill  and  close  attention  are  demanded  to 
keep  it  in  perfect  running  order,  and  pass  the  cloths  smoothly  and 
evenly  by  the  blades.  When  the  blades  are  not  sharp  or  properly 
set,  they  sometimes  pull  off  the  nap  instead  of  cutting  it  smoothly. 
Cloths  usually  present  a  better  appearance  when  sheared  down  by 
degrees,  than  when  the  nap  is  cut  off  in  a  hurry  by  one  or  two 
runs.  Some  manufacturers  employ  two  machines  ;  one  for  crop- 
ping off  the  nap  a  little,  and  the  other  for  finishing  and  cutting 
off  the  nap  gradually  and  evenly.  After  the  cloths  have  been 
sheared,  and  perhaps  burled,  and  specked  and  perched,  and  the 
holes  well  fine  drawn,  they  are  usually  brushed,  so  as  to  smooth 
the  nap,  and  are  papered  and  subjected  to  the  pressing. 

This  operation  tends  to  give  the  goods  a  firm  feeling,  and  makes 
the  face  smooth  and  usually  a  little  glossy.  The  gloss  is  not  what 
is  desired  to  meet  the  desired  finish  and  style  sometimes,  and  thus 
they  are  subjected  to  the  steaming  and  brushing  operations,  which 
tends  to  remove  the  gloss,  and  also  the  stiffness,  and  makes  them 
handle  better,  and  usually  makes  them  feel  a  little  finer.  This 
operation  concluded  and  the  cloths  are  usually  ready  to  be  care- 
fully measured,  and  carefully  done  up  for  the  market,  and  there 
to  be  disposed  of  for  various  prices,  and  which  prices  sometimes 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  103 

'allow  a  profit  and  sometimes  a  loss;  and  in  order  to  know  about 
what  prices  should  be  obtained  to  allow  a  profit,  it  is  necessary  to 
make  careful  estimations  of  their  cost. 

No  manufacturer  can  afford  to  make  an  article  to  be  sold,  with- 
out forming  a  very  correct  estimation  of  the  cost  of  such  an  arti- 
cle, by  accurate  calculations  with  figures,  and  which  figures  should 
be  obtained  from  book  accounts  and  statements  carefully,  accu- 
rately and  systematically  compiled  and  arranged. 


The  importance  of  Estimating  the  Cost  of  Goods 
correctly  and  the  most  approved  Method  for- 
making  the  Estimations. 

Perhaps  a  few  remarks  upon  this  important  connection  of  the 
business  may  prove  a  source  of  profit  to  some.  This  part  of  the 
business  is  not  to  be  classed  under  the  head  of  manufacturing, 
but  may  be  called  a  financial  connection  ;  and  to  which  all  well 
managed  concerns  give  a  special  attention.  All  who  engage  in  a 
business  wish  to  employ  their  means  invested  to  the  best  advan- 
tage to  enable  them  to  realize  a  profit ;  those  whoare  operating 
with  small  means  may  perhaps,  require  to  be  more  careful,  and 
attentive  to  minute  points  than  those  who  are  operating  with 
abundant  means,  but  care  and  close  attention  is  required  of  all 
who  are  engaged  in  the  woolen  business  in  these  fluctuating  times, 
to  make  it  a  paying  enterprise.  Goods  may  be  perfectly  manu- 
factured and  all  the  materials  employed,  and  the  affairs  pertaining 
to  the  direct  management  of  the  materials  may  be  conducted  pru- 
dently, honestly,  and  in  good  faith,  and  yet  by  a  want  of  system, 
and  a  proper  knowledge  of  the  requisites  necessary  to  make  cor- 
rect estimations,  and  sharp  financial  abilities,  the  business  may  be 
carried  on  at  a  loss,  and  thus  the  estimating  of  the  cost  of  goods 
scientifically  may  justly  be  considered  an  important  financial 
connection  of  the  business.  Suppose  for  instance  a  style  of  goods 


104  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

has  been  manufactured,  and  placed  in  the  market  for  disposal ; 
from  careful  estimations  we  have  ascertained  very  nearly  as  to 
how  much  these  goods  cost  per  yard,  and  thus  are  a-ble  to  set  the 
price  for  selling ;  suppose  they  cost  $1  per  yard,  and  some  of  them 
have  sold  for  $1.25  and  then  they  begin  to  drag  at  that  price,  and 
have  accumulated  some ;  the  selling  agents  inform  me  that  they 
can  dispose  of  all  they  have  at  $1.1 2-£,  and  to  dispose  of  them  and 
get  the  cloth  into  cash  I  direct  them  to  dispose  of  them  at  once, 
and  thus  I  am  satisfied  that  there  was  no  loss  to  my  business. 
And  thus  by  knowing  very  nearly  their  cost  we  may  be  able  to 
devise  ways  and  means  to  take  advantage  of  some  of  the  various 
reasons  which  cause  the  price  of  the  goods  to  be  depreciated 
sometimes  below  their  cost.  Suppose  we  are  manufacturing  and 
the  goods  are  being  disposed  of  at  prices  less  than  cost,  and  we 
have  not  made  an  accurate  estimation  of  their  cost,  and  we  con- 
tinue to  manufacture  and  sell  at  ruinous  prices,  and  are  not  aware 
of  the  fact  till  the  requisite  cash  is  not  forthcoming  to  meet  the 
necessary  demands ;  having  perhaps  lost  thousands  of  dollars,  then 
we  begin  to  search  for  an  adequate  remedy,  but  it  is  too  late,  the 
goods  have  been  sold,  and  there  is  no  chance  to  repair  the  losses 
already  incurred.  «r 

Thus  the  imperative  necessity  of  conducting  a  business  in  a 
skillful  and  systematic  manner,  and  have  complete  control  of  it 
in  all  its  details.  Some  may  say  that  to  manufacture  a  fabric  is 
one  particular  business,  and  to  manage  the  finance  is  another, 
but  both  are  contained  in  a  business,  and  thus  both  are  implicated, 
there  is  one  sure  thing  which  is,  the  more  extended  the  person's 
knowledge  may  be  in  relation  to  all  branches  connected,  the 
more  liable  will  he  be  to  attain  a  station  of  eminence  or  fortune. 
No  correct  estimation  of  the  cost  of  goods  can  be  obtained  with- 
out a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  cost  of  the  various  materials 
and  their  respective  proportions  used,  as  for  instance  the  stock 
material.  Usually  various  weights,  qualities  and  grades  are  em- 
ployed and  at  different  values,  and  it  is  necessary  to  know  in 
what  proportions  each  of  those  qualities  and  grades  appear  in  the 
fabric  ;  the  cost  for  the  stock  material  usually  exceeds  all  the 
other  expenses,  this  presents  the  fact  that  it  is  a  very  important 
expenditure,  and  that  perhaps  in  some  cases  there  may  possibly 
be  a  chance  to  economise  by  substituting  a  cheaper  slock  in  some 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  105 


part  of  the  fabric  without  producing  a  damaging  effect  upon  its 
general  appearance  and  selling  qualities,  and  to  accomplish  this 
we  shall  have  to-  call  upon  our  manufacturing  and  estimating 
abilities. 

No  person  can  be  called  competent  to  till  up  a  statement  show- 
ing the  relative  proportions  of  the  various  stock  materials  em- 
ployed unless  he  has  a  very  clear  knowledge  of  the  manufactur- 
ing, and  can  calculate  upon  the  Aveights  of  the  various  sizes  of 
yarns,  as*  is  explained  in  the  proceeding  departments,  especially 
spinning,  or  has  an  honest  person  at  the  head  of  the  manufactur- 
ing who  is  capable  of  furnishing  the  required  information  cor- 
rectly. Besides  the  stock  material  there  are  other  necessary 
materials  used  such  as  drugs  and  dyestuffs,  soaps,  oils,  &c.,  and 
in  order  to  know  very  nearly  what  quantities  are  used  monthly  it 
will  be  necessary  for  those  who  use  those  supplies  to  make  returns 
of  the  quantities  of  the  various  priced  materials  used  monthly. 

There  is  still  another  important  expenditure,  which  is  for  labor ; 
and  in  this  expense  there  is  frequently  a  chance  to  economise. 
Some  overseers  want  a  surplus  of  help,  and  some  require  more 
than  others  to  perform  the  same  amount  of  work.  A  skillful 
overseer  who  knows  how  to  lay  out  his"  work  properly,  and  thus 
take  advantage  of  it,  may  sometimes  produce  better  results  than 
another  overseer,  who  employs  more  help  and  still  keeps  them 
busily  engaged.  A  very  important  point  in  the  business  is  to 
employ  good,  faithful,  and  skillful  overseers,  and  they  in  turn  to 
employ  good  help.  There  are  other  expenses  connected  with  the 
business  which  will  be  mentioned  in  their  order. ' 

For  the  purpose  of  filling  out  a  statement,  and  to  explain  clearly 
the  idea  presented,  we  will  illustrate  by  assuming  that  we  are  ope- 
rating a  four  set  mill.  The  mill  main  building,  with  the  attached 
buildings,  land,  water  privilege,  machinery,  fixtures,  implements 
and  utensils  connected  with  the  premises,  all  completed  and  in 
running  order,  have  cost  the  sum  total  of  $36,000;  and  I  shall 
charge  this  amount  12  per  cent,  annual  interest,  to  help  kejep  the 
mill  in  running  condition,  and  to  allow  a  fair  interest  on  the 
money  invested,  which  will  amount  to  $4,320  yearly,  or  $360 
monthly;  the  interest  thus  charged  I  will  call  mill  rent,  and  will 
add  this  amount  to  the  other  expenses,  and  which  will  eventually 
appear  under  the  head  of  manufacturing.  My  16  tenements,  in- 
14 


106  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

chiding  the  occupied  land,  have  all  completed,  cost  the  sum  of 
$8,000;  these  tenements  return  me  monthly  in  the  form  of  rent 
$80;  and  thus  I  realize  about  12  per  cent,  per  annum  on  the 
money  invested,  and  thus  I  will  consider  they  pay  for  themselves, 
and  will  not  consider  them  in  the  accounts  which  are  to  be  used 
in  making  estimations  for  cost  of  goods. 

I  have  also  appropriated  to  furnish  the  various  materials  nec- 
essary for  manufacturing,  the  sum  of  $24,000  as  capital ;  this 
amount  I  consider  will  be  sufficient  to  carry  on  the  business  and 
which  will  be  constantly  passing  through  the  various  departments  „ 
in  the  form  of  raw  material,  till  finished  goods  are  made  and 
sold,  when  the  money  again  appears.  I  will  charge  the  amount 
thtvs  employed  interest  at  the  rate  of  12  per  cent,  per  annum,  which 
will  amount  to  $2880  yearly  or  240  per  month.  Thus  I  will  say 
that  I  have  appropriated  the  sum  total  of  $68,000 ;  $8000  is  so 
invested  that  it  returns  an  annual  rent  sufficient  to  meet  my 
demands,  the  balance,  $60,000,  then  has  been  appropriated  directly 
for  the  purpose  of  manufacturing  cloth,  and  I  must  look  to  the 
<;loth  manufactured  to  return  the  adequate  sum  to  pay  a  fair  per- 
centage for  the  money  thus  invested,  and  for  keeping  the  build- 
ings, machinery,  &c.,  up  to  their  present  value,  and  for  niv  labor 
&c.,  &c.  So  that  I  must  give  close  attention  to  the  cloth  manu- 
factured to  be  sure  I  am  realizing  the  sum  necessary  to  meet  the 
demands  of  the  amount  invested.  Cloths  being  sold  by  the  yard, 
upon  a  yard  must  all  the  estimations  be  made  as  to  the  cost  for 
all  the  money  employed ;  and  thus  the  fact  is  presented  why 
the  production  of  yards  woven  is  of  so  much  importance,  as  if 
they  are  woven,  of  course  they  must  be  finished  and  shipped  to 
market  for  disposal ;  the  payments  for  "  rent  of  mill,"  interest  on 
capital  in  trade,  day  labor,  salaries,  and  repairs,  and  some  other 
contingent  expenses,  will  be  the  same  when  the  monthly  produc- 
tion is  10,000  as  when  12,000  yards  ;  but  the  average  cost  per  yard 
for  these  expenses  will  be  less  for  the  12,000  yards  than  for  10,- 
000  yards.  The  average  cost  per  yard  for  material,  such  as  stork, 
drugs  and  dyestuffs,  oils,  soaps,  &c.,  will  not  be  any  more  for  the 
12,000  .than  the  10,000  yards,  so  that  it  may  readily  be  seen  where 
a  large  production  of  woven  yards  tends  to  reduce  the  average 
cost  for  a  single  yard.  I  have  always  made  calculations  by  the 
month,  (12  months  a  year,)  and  have  made  the  loom  yards  and 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  107 

weights  the  basis  for  estimating  the  cost,  but  as  the  goods  are 
sold  by  the  finished  yards  they  must  also  be  considered,  which 
will  be  explained  hereafter.  In  order  to  obtain  the  required 
information  as  to  the  various  materials  consumed  and  their 
respective  quantities  and  prices,  it  will  be  necessary  for  the  over- 
seers of  the  various  departments  where  the  materials  are  used  to 
keep  an  accurate  account  of  them,  and  make  returns  so  that  the 
necessary  figures  may  be  obtained.  And  for  the  purpose  of  fill- 
ing out  a  statement  for  explanation,  I  will  suppose  returns  have 
been  made  for  one  month  from  the  following : 

Dyer,  for  materials  consumed,  Drugs,  Dyestuflfs,    &c.,         •  $220.00 

Carder,           "                "          Oils,  66.00 

Dresser,         "               "          Glue  and  Irish  Moss,  22.00 

Weaver,         "               "          Heddles,  Shuttles,  Pickers,  &c.,  11.00 
Finisher,        «*               "          Boxes,  Clothboards,  Teazles, 

Soaps  &c.,  132.00 

Fireman,       "               "          Coal  and  Wood,  for  steam,  &c.,  220.00 

Machinist,      "               "          For  small  repairs,  &c.,  33.00 

The  cost  for  materials  (other  than  stock)  used  for  one  month 

foot  up  the  sum  total  of  $704.00 

The  bookkeeper  informs  me  that  the  total  amount  of  the  monthly 
pay  roll  which  includes  all  that  has  heen  paid  for  usual  labor, 
extra  labor,  and  salaries,  foots  up,  -  $2,079.00 

He  also  informs  me  that  the  charges  for  teaming,  freight  bills, 
traveling  and  sundries,  foot  up  the  sum  total  of  $143.  I  have 
also  obtained  the  production  of  pounds  and  yards  from  the  seve- 
ral departments,  which  are  also  necessary  for  making  estimations, 
and  to  keep  a  close  run  of  the  business,  arifl  which  read  as 
follows : 

Sorting,    Means  the  Ibs.  sorted  and  delivered  to  the  dyer,             10,000  Ibs. 

Coloring,      "  "        of  clean  stock  obtained  from  the  10,000  6,000  " 

Carding,       "  "       of  stock,  waste,  &c.,  used  with  the  6,000  8,000   " 

Spinning,      "  "        of  yarn  obtained,                                         7,500  " 

Dressing,    Total  yards  of  yarn  dressed  and  warped,  12,000  yds. 

Weaving,        "  "      produced  from  the  looms,                           H-,000   " 

Finishing,        "  "    finished,                                                         11,000    " 

All  the  returns  as  mentioned  complete  the  list,  and  to  form  an 
estimation  and  statement  to  show  the  general  average  of  each 
department  forgone  month  for  sundry  small  materials,  labor,  &c.. 


108  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


and  to  explain  plainly  the  idea  to  be  conveyed,  I  have  taken  all 
the  previous  figures  excepting  mill  rent,  interest  on  capital  in 
trade,  and  arranged  them  in  the  form  of  a  statement,  showing 
the  estimate  "  cost  for  small  materials  and  labor  for  one  month." 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.                          109 

•  •fill  -I  '•  • 

3  _j 

S1   & 

—  S 

'  g?'"*" 

0 
S5 

,1*1,  ,#, 

£    5       3 

'£'  |'  '  S' 

•!         •       111! 

ill 

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§1  §§1  isg  §1 

I 

I  =? 

• 

a,                 o^^otoosoc^o^cft 
co 

I| 

OS  40  to".  ~" 

sill 

>^g0 

Illl 

t  for  the  Cost  per  pound. 

Labor.  Total.  Muteriiils.  !  Labor.  |  Total. 

<jl  M.             ta      j->.                   to 

Ljl  OS              CO  "             tO  h-'  tO         C5  ' 

00            0             000        0 

r 

h 

_J                              OS  b3  Ot        tO  to  H* 

:<•  co^l  IMM-  y;n-d 
Labor.  Tota 

!      ?°l             os^     '    biocbi^U?5 

H*|                  00              00000° 

.                                  to 
»|            CO       04^'     toes'     OT'     'r^es 

0              0,       00        00        0        00 

"  i 

110  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

You  will  please  observe  as  per  the  third,  fourth  and  fifth  col- 
umns at  the  left,  the  cost  for  materials  and  labor  are  each  arrang- 
ed so  as  to  show  in  which  department  they  belong,  and  that  they 
are  the  gross  amounts;  and  in  the  sixth,  seventh  and  eighth 
(short  columns),  the  average  cost  per  pound  for  each  department 
is  given  ;  and  in  the  last  three  columns  the  average  cost  per  yard 
for  materials  and  labor  are  given  as  they  belong  in  each  depart- 
ment. 

The  total  cost  for  materials  foots  up  $  847,00 
And  for  labor  -  -  2079,00 


Total  $2926,00 

which  divided  by  the  11,000  yards,  gives 
the  average  cost  per  yard  for  materials          7'w  cents. 
"        "  "        "     labor  18,'0     " 

Making  the  average  cost  per  yard  for  the  month  26*0     " 

To  obtain  the  average  cost  per  yard,  the  yards  from  the  looms 
(production)  are  used  11,000  yards ;  and  the  average  cost  per  yard 
for  all  the  other  expenses,  will  be  calculated  by  the  11,000  yards, 
(excepting  for  stock  and  the  cost  for  commission,  insurance,  stor- 
age, &c.,  in  the  market.)  The  other  expenses  to  be  added  and 
averaged  to  a  yard,  are  as  follows: 

The  gas  bills  foot  up  yearly                    $  132  monthly  $11 

Premiums  on  Insurance  policies  yearly.      720  "        60 

Taxes  on  personal  property  and  real  estate   480  "        40 

Rent  of  Mill  yearly,                                    4,320  «      360 

Interest  on  money  as  capital  yearly,  -      2,880  "      240 

The  total  for  one  month  foots  up,  *  i  1  1 

This  amount  divided  by  the  production  (11,000  yds.)  gives  the 
average  cost  to  a  yard  a  fraction  over  6j40  cents,  and  added  to  the 
average  cost  for  small  materials  and  labor,  and  the  cost  thus  far 
amounts  to  33  cents;  there  must  be  now  added  the  cost  of  the 
stock  and  for  selling  the  goods. 

For  the  purpose  of  explaining  how  to  calculate  the  percentage 
of  stock  used  and  to  fill  out  a  statement,  a  supposition  case  will 
be  necessary :  Suppose  that  an  estimation  is  to  be  made  of  the 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


Ill 


stock  used  to  make  a  style  which  we  will  call  No.  1,  and  that  the 
yarn  was  spun  and  the  required  number  of  threads  of  warp  and 
filling  were  each  used  to  produce  12  ounces  of  stock  in  a  yard, 
6  ozs  of  warp  and  6  ozs  of  filling.  By  referring  to  the  Lot  Book 
wherein  entries  were  made  of  the  stock  material  laid  out,  the 
quantities,  qualities,  color,  size  of  yarn  to  be  made,  for  what  style, 
and  whether  for  warp  or  filling.  And  the  stock  as  laid  out  reads 
as  follows  :  The  Stock  represented  is  the  weight. 

(  200  Ibs.  2d.  qual.  fleece,  costing  in  market57^  cts.  shrinks  40  pr,  ct.  cost  clean  96  cts. 
Warp.^  400  ibs.  4th.  qual.  fleece,  costing  in  market  57^  cts.  shrinks  40  pr.  ct.  cost  clean  96  cts. 

(  400  Ibs.  2d.  qual.  Cal.  costing  in  market  40  cents  shrinks  50  pr.  ct.  cost  clean  80  cts. 

( 400  Ibs.  4th.  qual.  fleece,  costing  in  market  57^  cts.  shrinks  40  pr.  ct.  cost  clean  96  cts- 
Fill's.^  200  Ibs.  2d.  qual.  fleece,  costing  in  market  57>£  cts.  shrinks  40  pr.  ct.  cost  clean  %  cts- 

(  400  ffis.  4th.  qual.  Texas,  costing  in  market  36  cts.  shrinks  50  pr.  ct.cost  clean  74  cts. 

2000  Ibs.  total. 

By  the  above  memorandum  it  appears  there  were  three  different 
kinds  of  stock  employed,  and  that  there  is  a  difference  in  their 
shrinkage  and  cost,  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  ascertain  the  rela- 
tive proportions  (percentage)  of  each  kind  used.  The  total  foots 
up  2000  pounds,  and  to  get  the  several  percentages  used  of  each 
kind,  divide  each  of  the  pounds  taken  by  the  total  pounds;  thus 
200,  2d.  quality  fleece  divided  by  the  2000,  and  it  is  found  to  be 
10  per  cent.  And  thus  continue  with  each  of  the  component 
parts  of  the  combination,  and  the  percentage  of  each  kind  used 
will  read  as  follows :  (see  part  first,  answer  to  question  12,  rule  for 
calculating  percentage  of  warp  and  filling).  • 


\Varp. 


Filling. 


10  per  cent. 
20     " 
20     " 


20 
ho 
(20 


100 


2d.  quality  fieece  wool, 
4th 

Cal. 

fleece 


2d. 
4th 
2d. 
4th 


Texas 


Suppose  10  pieces  of  style  No.  1,  have  been  woven  and  finished 
and  the  yards  and  weights  are  known.  And  the  average  of  the 
yards  and  weights  appear  as  follows : 

Loom  average  HI  yards  and  14  ounces. 
Finished  "       30      "      «     12      " 


Loss  1  yard.  Loss  2  ounces  in  finishing. 


112 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


As  has  been  previously  stated  the  loom  weight  will  be  used  for 
making  estimations  of  stock  used.  The  average  loom  weight  for 
the  10  pieces  is  14  ounces,  thus  the  12  ounces  of  stock  which  was 
calculated  in  yarn  weights,  has  by  the  take  up  in  process  of  weav- 
ing increased  to  14  ounces.  As  the  stock  used  is  of  fair  quality 
and  of  good  staple,  it  will  be  a  safe  calculation  if  one  ounce  is 
added  to  a  yard  to  make  up  for  waste  in  process  of  carding,  spin- 
ning and  weaving,  and  with  one  ounce  added  to  cover  this  loss 
by  waste,  we  then  have  15  ounces  of  stock  to  make  calculations 
upon,  and  thus  by  multiplying  the  15  ounces  by  the  several  per- 
centages of  the  various  qualities  and  grades,  the  relative  propor- 
tions of  each  are  obtained  in  ounces  and  fractional  parts,  and 
as  the  market  prices  and  the  shrinkages  of  each  are  known,  the 
cost  per  pound  is  known  as  also  the  cost  per  ounce,  and  all  the 
previous  calculations  are  brought  into  a  final  statement  as 
follows : 

MEMMORANDUM  OF  THE  COST  PEII  YARD,  FOR  ONI:  \i:\v 
STYLE  FANCY  CASSIMERES,  !STo.  1. 

Loom  average  31  yards  and  14  ounces. 
Finished     "    30      "       "    12 

Loss,  1  yard  and    2  ounces. 


(  2d.  quality  fleece  10  per  cen 
Warp.  •<  4th.  qual.  fleece  20  per  ce: 

<2d.  q«al.  Califor.   20  per  cen 

(  4th.  quality  fleece  20  per  cen 
Fill'!,'.-  2d.  qunlity  fleece  10  per  cen 

|  4th.    qual.  Texas  20  per  cen 


STOCK. 

di1  1 '.,.  o/s.  cost  0  cents  per  ounce  clean,  ,(M(  cents. 
OF  3  ozs.  cost  5;!;t  cts.  per  ounce  clean,  .  17.25rts. 
or  3  ozs.  cost  5  cts.  per  ounce  clean.  _  .15  cents, 
or  3  ozs.  cost  5:14'  cts.  per  ounce  clean,  .17.'.T>  els. 
or  \%  ozs.  cost  (5  cts.  per  ounce  dean,  i  .i»i(  cents. 
cr  3  ozs.  cost  4^  cts.  per  ounce  clean.  -  .14.25  cts. 


100  per  cent.      15  ounces.  Cost  for  Stock  .HP,    cl-. 

Labor       .        .  .18.9-10" 

Manufacturing  .14.1-10" 

Lose  of  one  yard  in  finishing  process  .04        " 

n>st  for  Stock,  Labor.  Manufacturing,  &c.,  $1.18?4 
Selling  (foods,       .(Hi', 

Total  cost  for  our  yard,    f  1.28 

The  total  cost  for  labor  as  is  filled  in  above,  we  have  previously 
ascertained,  and  all  other  expenses,  except  for  stock  and  selling 
the  goods  in  market,  are  added  under  head  of  manufacturing. 
The  addition  for  loss  in  finishing  of  one  yard  we  found  by  the 
average  of  the  10  pieces,  and  as  all  the. previous  calculations  were 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTUEER. 


113 


made  excepting  for  stock  and  selling  goods  by  the  woven  yards, 
if  there  is  to  be  a  loss  of  yards  in  process  of  finishing,  this  loss 
must  be  considered,  and  a  loss  of  one  yard  from  thirty  one  makes 
about  3^  per  cent,  and  which  amounts  to  a  little  less  than  4  cents, 
but  it  is  added  in  as  4  cents.  The  cost  for  selling  goods  will 
depend  upon  how  affairs  are  managed  ;  if  a  manufacturer  has  suf- 
ficient means  to  carry  on  his  business  so  that  he  can  wait  two, 
three  or  four  months  for  the  net  proceeds  of  his  sales,  i.  e.  till  the 
money  is  due,  he  will  usually  save  more  than  when  he  is  obliged 
to  draw  on  the  commission  house  and  pay  a  heavv  discount  for 
paper  or  cash  ;  generally  it  costs  from  10  to  15  per  cent,  for  sell- 
ing goods,  and  sometimes  more.  The  commission  paid  for  selling- 
is  now  about  5  per  cent,  on  the  price  obtained  when  sold,  also  for 
freight,  storage,  labor  and  insurance  about  2  per  cent ;  and  the 
credits  given  to  purchasers  by  which  the  interest  is  lost,  and  the 
holding  of  goods  sometimes  will  make  up  the  percentage  about  as 
much  move  ;  in  the  above  statement  the  percentage  is  8  per  cent, 
and  added  to  the  total  cost  at  the  mill,  i.  e.  upon  all  the  other 
expenses,  stock,  labor,  &c.,  &c. 

It  is  advisable  to  make  all  the  estimations  on  the  outside,  i.  e., 
be  sure  and  have  the  cost  per  yard  full  as  high  as  it  will  bear,  so 
that  providing  only  the  estimated  cost  was  obtained,  you  may 
rest  assured  you  are  getting  a  new  dollar  for  an  old  one.  A  man- 
ufacturer once  said  "  he  estimated  the  cost  of  his  goods,  on  a  sim- 
ilar plan  with  an  old  lady  who  made  rhubarb  pies ;  she  said  she 
added  sugar  till  her  conscience  would  not  allow  her  to  add  any 
more,  then  she  shut  her  eyes  and  put  in  another  handfull ;  so 
after  he  had  put  the  cost  as  high  as  his  conscience  would  allow, 
he  would  then  add  ten  cents;"  this  same  manufacturer  com- 
menced business  on  a  very  small  capital,  in  a  small  mill  which 
he  rented,  and  now  he  owns  some  12  setts  of  machinery,  with 
buildings,  &c.,  and  has  a  large  surplus  of  cash. 

As  per  the  statement,  the  cost  of  the  fourth  quality  of  the  fleece 
has  been  carried  out  at  5f  cents,  and  the  second  quality  of  same 
lot  is  called  worth  6  cents  per  ounce;  the  fourth  quality  iocs  not 
shrink  as  much  as  the  second  usually,  and  thus  is  usually  called 
a  little  lower  priced;  also  the  second  quality  is  always  called 
worth  more  than  fourth,  &c. 

Some  of  our  first-class  manufacturers  in  making  estimations 
15 


114  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

after  the  average  of  yards  and  weights  have  been  obtained,  and  the 
cost  for  the  stock  has  been  estimated  in  the  same  manner  as  was  the 
stock  for  style  No.  1  ;  they  then  ascertain  the  cost  for  the  labor, 
and  add  to  the  cost  for  stock,  and  make  an  allowance  when  there 
is  a  loss  in  finished  yards.  They  then  bring  all  the  other  expenses 
and  add  them  under  the  head  of  manufacturing ;  and  to  ascertain 
the  figures  for  that  account,  they  double  the  cost  for  the  labor; 
say  where  is  added  14.1-10  cents,  they  would  add  37.8-10,  and 
not  mention  the  cost  for  labor,"  &c.,  which  would  be  double  the 
cost  of  the  labor  as  per  statement,  and  their  method  would  foot 
up,  $1  23£,  as  the  cost  per  yard,  to  which  must  be  added  selling 
goods.  To  double  the  cost  for  the  labor,  will  in  most  all  cases 
prove  a  safe  estimate  for  all  the  expenses  which  appear  under  the 
head  of  "  Manufacturing"  and  "  Labor." 

All  the  estimations  which  have  to  be  made  upon  the  produc- 
tion of  yards  (i.  e.,  yards  woven),  have  been  calculated  by  11,000 
yards,  and  those  yards  have  been  taken  as  the  usual  average  pro- 
duction, one  month  with  another. 

There  is  still  another  material  used  sometimes  for  increasing 
the  finished  weights  of  goods,  and  which  material  is  flocks ;  when 
cloths  are  produced  from  the.  looms  a  certain  weight  per  yard, 
and  when  finished  they  are  about  the  loom  weight,  the  ounces  of 
flocks  applied  may  be  verj  correctly  ascertained.  As  was  said  be- 
fore, the  calculations  for  yarn  weights  of  warp  and  filling  before 
the  weaving  process,  will  usually  come  very  near  to  the  finished 
weight  of  the  fabric,  when  no  flocks  are  applied.  And  when 
flocks  have  been  applied,  the  difference  between  the  yarn 
weight  and  the  loom  weight  is  a  very  close  calculation  of  the 
weight  of  flocks  applied,  that  is  when  there  is  not  much  differ- 
ence between  loom  and  finished  weights :  when  estimations  are 
made  from  flocks,  usually  twice  the  weight  supposed  to  be  applied 
is  taken  for  obtaining  the  cost.  Suppose  we  are  using  a  flock 
worth  16  cents  per  pound  which  would  be  1  cent  per  ounce,  and 
we  expected  about  2  ounces  were  retained  in  the  piece  per  yard  we 
would  then  say  4  ounces  of  flock  at  1  cent  per  ounce  or  4  cents  for 
a  yard;  (see  memorandum  of  stock  for  cotton  warp.)  suppose  no 
calculations  had  been  made  when  the  stock  had  been  laid  out 
for  warp  and  filling  to  have  them  work  up  nearly  together  but 
that  a  large  amount  of  stock  had  been  laid  out  for  extra  filling, 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  115 


for  other  warps;  and  that  the  calculation  which  comes  up  first  is 
for  a  style  of  goods,  the  warp  of  which  was  calculated  so  as  to 
weigh  4  ounces  per  yard  in  the  yarn,  and  the  filling  6  ounces  per 
yard  in  the  yarn.  And  thus  one  yard  of  warp  and  filling  weigh 
10  ounces,  thus  XJ  is  warp  to  £  filling  /„  of  100  per  cent.  =  10  per 
cent  multiplied  by  4  =  40  per  cent,  warp,  10  per  cent,  multiplied 
by  6  =  GO  per  cent,  filling,  so  that  to  obtain  the  percentage  of 
each  kind  used,  the  calculations  will  have  to  be  made  differently 
than  for  style  No.  1,  as  the  warp  and  filling  percentage  Avill  have 
to  be  made  separately.  Suppose  that  the  stock  laid  out  reads  as 
'  follows  : 

^T  i    800  pounds  4th  quality,  fleece  wool, 

Warp.       j    8QO*     „     ,3d<  *     „       Qah        „ 

(  1600        "       4th         "       fleece      " 
Filling.     \    800        "  4th  &  5th  "       pulled   *" 
(    800       "     waste 

The  total  pounds  of  warp  foot  up  1600,  and  the  percentage  of 
each  kind  of  stock  (obtained  as  for  style  No.  1.)  in  the  warp 
reads  : 

50  per  cent,  of  4th  quality  fleece, 
50        "          «   3d.    -     «       Cal. 

Thus  50  per  cent,  of  the  percentage  of  warp  (40  per  cent.)  is  4th 
quality  fleece  which   equals  20  per  cent,  and  50  per  cent  of  the 
percentage  of  warp  is  3d.  quality  California,  equals  20  per  'cent. 
The  warp  proportions  will  then  read  as  follows: 
20  per  cent,  4th  quality  fleece, 
20    "      "     3d.         "     California. 

The  total  pounds  of  filling  foot  up  3200,  and  the  percentage  of 

each  kind  of  stock,  (obtained  same  as  warp)  in  the  filling  reads  : 

50  per  cent.  4th  quality  fleece, 

25         "  4th  &  5th  "       pulled, 

25         "  waste. 

Thus  50  per  cent,  of  the  percentage  of  filling  (60  per  cent.)  is 
4th  quality  fleece  which  equals  30  per  cent.  And  the  per  cent. 
of  the  other  kinds  of  filling  stock  obtained  the  same  way  and 
they  read  : 

30  per  cent.  4th  quality  fleece, 
15  «  4th  &  5th  "  pulled, 
15  "  waste. 


116  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


And  thus  the  relative  per  cent,  of  stock  of  the  warp  and  filling 
for  one  yard  of  each  kind  of  stock  employed  read  as  follows  : 

w          \  20  per  cent,  or  2  ounces  4th  quality  fleece, 
»»P.    -J20        «  «  2      «        3d<         «      California. 

(  30        "  "  3      "       4th         "      fleece, 

Filling.     2  15        «          «  H    «  4tli  &  5th  "      pulled, 

( 15        "  "  H    "  waste. 

Proof  100  per  cent,  or  10  ounces. 

The  remainder  of  the  calculations  are  to  be  made  out  the 
same  as  for  style  No.  1.  The  calculations  would  be  obtained  by 
the  same  method  providing  the  warp  had  been  0  ounces  and  the 
filling  4  ounces,  but  the  percentages  would  read  differently,  or  in 
any  case  where  the  stock  is  laid  out  without  regard  to  equal  or 
proportionate  parts.  And  generally  the  stock  is  laid  out  in  about 
that  order,  especially  for  filling,  sometimes  the  filling  is  laid  out 
for  several  warps  of  different  weights,  sometimes  changes  are  made 
in  the  weights  of  both  warp  and  filling. 

Probably  this  method  for  obtaining  the  exact  percentage  of 
stock  in  a  yard  would  be  the  safest  .and  most  approved  method 
unless  as  for  style  No.  1,  the  weight  of  warp  and  filling  should  be 
the  same  and  the  stock  laid  out  accordingly. 

ESTIMATING  COTTON  WARP  GOODS. 

Suppose  a  few  pieces  of  cotton  warp  goods  are  to  be  made  from 
the  following  stock,  for  filling  :) 

C  320  pounds  4th  quality  fleece  (No.  1.)  wool, 
TJ,.IV        j    640       "  4th  &  5th  "         pulled 

llllg'  1    320      "        7th       "        Texas  (medium)  " 

[   320      "  waste  (good  thread). 

Total  1600  pounds. 

the  percentage  of  each  kind  of  stock  above  mentioned  when  ob- 
tained as  per  previous  calculations  will  read: 

20  per  cent.  4th  quality  %eece, 
40  "  4th  &  5th  "  pulled 
20  "  7th  "  T«xas 

20       "  waste 

Proof  100  per  cent. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  117 

The  warp  is  No.  18,  black  cotton  1800  ends,  cotton  runs  are 
double  wool  runs,  thus  a  warp  of  1800  ends  of  18  runs,  No.  18  cot- 
ton warp,  will  be  the  same  as  a  warp  of  1800  ends  of  9  run  yarn 
by  wool  calculations.  And  by  referring  to  table  of  warp  yarns 
spinning  department,  there  will  be  two  ounces  of  cotton  warp  to 
each  yard.  And  with  the  usual  take  up  in  weaving  it  will  be 
calculated  as  2|-  ounces.  The  cotton  warp  cost  8  cents  per  yard, 
which  makes  4  cents  per  ounce,  the  average  of  several  pieces  has 
been  obtained. 

The  shrinkage  of  the  wool,  the  cost  per  ounce  when  clean,  and  all  the  fig- 
ures necessary  to  fill  out  a  statement  are  supposed  to  be  known  (by  a 
careful  study  of  the  previous  examples),  and  they  are  brought  together 
and  formed  into  a  statement,  as  follows  : 

Memo,  of  the  Cost  per  yard,  of  a  Cotton  Warp  Fabric. 

Loom  Average  30  yards  12  ounces. 
Finished    "        32       "     14      " 

Gain,      2  yds.       2  ounces. 
STOCK. 

Warp,    1800  Ends  Number  18  Cotton,  2J^     •  ozs.  at  4  cents,  09.   cents. 

{     20  pr.  ct.  of  4th  qnal.  fleece  wool,  2.2  ozs.  at  5  cents,       11.  cents. 

Filli        I     40  pr.  ct.  of  4th  &  5th  qua!,  pnll'd  wool,  4.4       ozs.  at  4  cents,  17.6 cents. 

"   i      20  pr.  ct.  of  7th  qual.  Texas  wool,  2.2      ozs.  at  4  cents,  08.8  cents. 

I     20  pr.  ct.  of  Waste,  2.2      ozs.  at  2  cents,  04.4  cents. 

100  per  cent,  13&  ounces,  50.8  cents. 

2    [ozs.  Flocks  cost  02. 

Cost  for  Stock  52-8  cents. 

The  cost  for  labor  and  manufacturing  are  to  be  added  when  ob- 
tained, and  a  deduction  made  for  gain  of  yards  in  finishing  pro- 
cess. 

As  per  statement,  the.  average  loom  weight  is  12  ounces,  of 
which  2^  ounces  is  cotton  warp ;  thus  9f  ounces  will  be  the  aver- 
age weight  of  filling  stock  in  a  yard.  As  a  portion  of  the  filling 
stock  is  waste,  and  as  there  will  be  a  waste  made  by  carding,  spin- 
ning and  weaving,  \\  ounces  has  been  added  to  the  filling  weight 
to  make  due  allowance  for  the  loss  by  waste,  and  thus  11  ounces 
is  called  the  filling  proportion,  and  which  will  be  a  safe  calcula- 
tion, as  most  of  the  stock  ie  a  fair  staple.  When  much  waste  is 
used,  more  weight  should  be  added  for  calculating,  as  the  more 
short  stock  employed,  the  more  waste  will  be  made  usually,  as 
Avas  said  before. 


118  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

All  the  estimations  should  be  made  full  high  enough,  to  insure 
the  cost  is  on  the  safe  side,  and  thus  providing  only  the  cost  is 
obtained  for  the  goods,  the  credit  side  of  your  account  will  bo  :i|>t 
to  be  increased. 

The  stock  in  the  statement  is  supposed  to  be  clean  •  stock,  as 
no  correct  estimations  can  be  made  when  different  kinds  of  wool 
of  various  percentages  of  shrinkages  are  used,  or  when  waste  and 
cotton  are  used  with  wool,  unless  the  weight  of  clean  stock  is 
known,  or  calculated  very  nearly  correct,  as  the  clean  stock  is 
really  made  into  the  fabric;  also  the  percentage  of  loss  in  scour- 
ing must  be  known,  to  know  the  cost  of  the  stock  used. 

Also  even  numbers  were  employed  in  the  statements  to  make 
the  figures  and  explanations  plain,  and  as  was  stated  in  the  Wool 
Room  department,  the  shrinkage  of  the  wool  must  be  known  to 
ascertain  its  cost,  and  also  to  furnish  the  figures  for  a  correct 
statement  of  the  stock  used,  because  if  wools  of  different  qualities 
and  kinds  are  used,  there  will  be  usually  quite  a  variation  in  their 
shrinkage,  and  if  the  weights  in  the  grease  are  used,  no  correct 
statement  will  be  produced. 

The  foregoing  methods  for  estimating  the  cost  of  goods,  are  the 
same  as  are  employed  by  the  first-class  manufacturers  of  this 
country. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  119 


RULES    AND    REMARKS 

r  r  cc  _n:  jv  r, 

|)n  the   fcular  Jfotion$  of  jlltecls,  Sutkgs,  fot$,  &c. 

Their  respective  driving  power,  their  comparative  sur 
face  value  when  of  wood,  rough  and  polished  Iron 
&c.,  &c.,  with  a  few  facts  on  Machine  Belting,  &e. 


When  a  series  of  Wheels,  Pulleys  and  Gears  are  so  arranged 
that  one  being  set  in  motion  imparts  motion  directly  to  another, 
and  that  to  a  third  and  so,  on  then  as  their  respective  diame- 
ters, circumferences,  and  the  number  of  teeth  one  to  another  so 
are  their  respective  revolutions  one  to  another  in  the  same  space 
of  time.  In  every  machine  there  are  combined  drivers  and  driven 
as  speaking  of  their  motive  power,  as  there  must  be  some  first 
point  of  motion,  and  the  points  thus  transmitting  the  power 
-become  the  drivers  and  driven,  and  driven  and  drivers. 

EXAMPLE. 

A  drum  on  a  main  shaft  is  24  inches  in  diameter,  and  by  means  of  a  belt 
drives  a  pulley  whose  diameter  is  8  inches,  how  many  revolutions  will  the 
pulley  make  to  one  of  the  drum  ? 

RULE. — Divide  diameter  of  drum  by  the  diameter  of  the  pulley. 
24  divided  by  8=3  ans. 

EXAMPLE. 

What  part  of  a  revolution  will  the  drum  make,  while  the  pulley  makes 
one  revolution? 

RULE. — Divide  diameter  of  the  pulley  by  diameter  of  the  drum. 
8  divided  by  24  —  8-34  =  $  ans. 


120  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

EXAMPLE. 

The  drum  makes  80  revolutions  per  minute,  how  many  does  the  pulley 
make  V 

RULE. — Multiply  the  diameter  of  the  drum  (the  driver]  by  the 
number  of  revolutions  made  per  minute.  Divide  the  product  by  the 
diameter  of  the  pulley  (the  driven}. 

Diameter  of  drum  24  inches. 

Making  80  revolutions  per  minute. 

Diameter  of  pulley  8  inches,)1920 

240  ans.  revolutions  per  minute. 

EXAMPLE. 

The  diameter  of  the  drum  (the  driver),  is  24  inches  and  makes  80  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  what  size  driven  pulley  will  be  required  to  obtain  240 
revolutions  per  minute  ? 

RULE. — Multiply  the  diameter  of  the  driver,  by  the  revolutions 
per  minute.  Divide  the  product  by  the  revolutions  requin-il. 

Diameter  of  drum  24  inches 

Making    80  revolutions  per  minute. 

Revolutions  required  240)1920 

8  inches  size  of  driven  pulley. 

EXAMPLE. 

The  cylinder  to  a  willowing  machine  should  make  240  revolutions  per 
minute,  the  shaft  of  which  has  an  eight  inch  pulley  attached.  The  driving 
shaft  makes  80  revolutions  per  minute.  How  large  will  be  the  drum  (or 
driver)  required  to  furnish  the  desired  speed  ? 

RULE. — Multiply  the  revolutions  required,  by  the  size  of  pulley 
attached.  Divide  the  product  by  the  revolutions  of  the  driving 
shaft. 

Revolutions  required,  240 

Diameter  of  attached  pulley,        8  indies. 

Revolutions  of  driving  shaft,  80)1920 


Answer,  24  inches  size  of  drum  or 

driver  required. 
EXAMPLE. 

Required  the  speed  of  a  buzz  saw,  which  is  furnished  with  drivers  and 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  121 


driven  pulleys  as  follows :  The  pulley  on  the  saw  shaft  is  4  inches  in  diam- 
eter; the  next  pulley  which  is  to  be  a  driver  for  it,  is  20  inches  in  diameter. 
At  the  opposite  side  of  the  saw  bench  and  on  the  same  shaft  with  the  20 
inch  pulley,  is  a  driven  pulley  and  which  is  14  inches  in  diameter.  The 
driver  for  this  pulley  is  on  the  main  shaft,  and  the  drum  or  driver  is  40  inches 
in  diameter,  and  the  main  shaft  makes  140  revolutions  per  minute,  what  is 
the  speed  of  the  saw  V 

RULE. — Multiply  the  diameter  of  the  drum  by  the  revolutions 
per  minute  ;  divide  the  product  by  the  diameter  of  the  next  driven. 
Multiply  the  quotient  thus  obtained,  by  the  diameter  of  the  second 
driver  ;  divide  the  product  by  the  diameter  of  the  next  driven,  the 
quotient  will  be  the  revolutions  of  the  saiv. 

140  x  40  =  5000,  divided  by  14  =  400,  x  20  =  8000,  divided  by  4  =2000, 
answer,  as  the  revolutions  per  minute  of  the  buzz  saw. 

EXAMPLE. 

The  basket  to  a  Hydro  Extractor  should  make  550  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. Attached  to  the  shaft  of  the  basket  is  an  8  inch  pulley ;  the  driver 
of  this  8  inch  pulley  is  a  10  inch  pulley ;  what  should  be  the  diameter  of  the 
main  driving  pulley,  the  main  shaft  making  110  revolutions  per  minute. 

RULE. — Multiply  the  desired  revolutions  of  the  Extractor,  by 
the  size  of  the  pulley  attached;  divide  the  product  by  the  revolu- 
tions of  the  main  shaft,  the  quotient  is  the  diameter  of  the  main 
driver  required. 

550  x  8  =  4400,  divided  by  110  =  40  answer,  as  the  diameter  of  the  main 
driver  required.  The  10  inch  intermediate  pulley  is  not  considered  in  the 
calculations,  as  any  number  of  intermediate  pulleys  may  be  used,  providing 
they  each  transmit  the  same  speed  as  they  each  receive  respectively. 

Calculations  are  made  for  gears,  pinions  &c.  the  same  as  for  wheels, 
drums  and  pulleys,  the  former  transmit  the  power  and  speed  by  teeth, 
while  the  latter  transmit  by  belts. 

EXAMPLE. 

A  pinion  of  10  teeth  drives  a  wheel  of  50 ;  how  many  revolutions  does 
the  pinion  make  to  one  revolution  of  the  wheel  ? 

50  divided  by  10  =  5  revolutions,  answer. 

EXAMPLE. 

A  pinion  has  10  teeth  and  makes  40  revolutions  per  minute  ;  how  many 
revolutions  does  a  wheel  make  in  the  same  time,  which  has  fifty  teeth  and 
works  in  contact. 

10  x  40  =  400,  divided  by  50  =  8  revolutions,  ans. 

16 


122  AMEEICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


EXAMPLE. 

A  wheel  has  50  teeth  and  makes  8  revolutions  per  minute,  how  many 
teeth  must  a  pinion  or  wheel  have  to  work  in  contact  and  make  40  revolu- 
tions in  a  minute  ? 

50  x  8  400,  divided  by  40  =  10  teeth,  ans. 

To  find  the  number  of  revolutions  made  by  the  last,  to  one  revolution  of 
the  first,  when  several  pinions  or  wheels  work  in  contact  in  a  train. 

RULE. — Divide  the  product  of  all  the  teeth  in  the  drivers  by 
product  of  all  the  teeth  in  the  driven;  the  quotient  is  the  number 
or  ratio  desired. 

EXAMPLE. 

A  wheel  of  36  teeth  drives  a  pinion  of  7  upon  whose  shaft  is  a  wheel  of 
28  teeth  that  drives  a  pinion  of  5,  upon  whose  shaft  is  a  wheel  of  70  teeth, 
that  drives  a  pinion  of  12,  how  many  revolutions  does  the  last  pinion  make 
to  one  revolution  of  the  first  wheel  V 

T*  ^r  T*  =  168  revolutions,  answer. 

Probably  the  foregoing  examples  will  serve  all  practical  pur- 
poses for  calculating  the  required  speed  for  the  different  machines, 
pulleys,  gears,  &c.,  as  the  sizes  of  the  pulleys,  gears,  &c.,  connected 
with  the  different  machines  such  as  the  Loom,  Card,  Shear, 
Dresser,  &c.,  are  usually  regulated  and  attached  to  speed  each  con- 
necting part  so  that  they  will  work  together,  so  that  by  changing 
the  speed  to  their  main  driver,  the  speed  of  the  whole  of  the  ma- 
chine will  be  effected  uniformly. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  123 


EEMARKS  ON  MACHINE  BELTING. 

The  following  observations,  remarks  and  facts  on  Machine 
Belting  with  directions  for  use,  and  the  corresponding  driving 
powers  of  different  kinds  of  bands  and  pulleys,  &c.,  &c.,  were  fur- 
nished the  author,  by  the  well  known  and  extensive  manufactu- 
rers and  dealers  in  Belts  and  Belting  of  all  descriptions,  MESSRS. 
FAIKKROTHKR  &  FALES,  Pawtucket,  E.  I. 


TABLE 


DRIVING   POWER    OF    DIFFERENT    KINDS  OF    BANDS   AND 
PULLEYS. 

Experiments  made   by   Hoyt  Brothers,  at  their  Manufactory,   N.  Y. 


This  table  gives  the  relative  driving  power  of  Leather  Belting 
with  both  grain  and  flesh  side  to  pulley,  also  of  Rubber,  Gutta 
Percha  and  Canvas.  The  Pulleys  on  which  the  experiments 
were  made  were  the  .same  in  size,  on  one  shaft,  and  their  surfaces 
severally  of  leather,  polished  iron,  rough  turned  iron,  and  pol- 
ished mahogany.  The  bands  were  passed  over  the  pulley,  one 
end  made  fast  and  stationary,  and  on  the  other  end  one  pound 
weight  was  suspended  to  every  square  inch  contact  surface  of  the 
band  and  pulley. 

The  number  of  pounds  required  to  slip  the  band  are  given  ; 
also  the  number  of  pounds  strain  on  the  band  at  which  it  will 
cease  to  slip ;  and  also  number  of  pounds  required  to  make  it 
continue  to  slide. 

The  belts  were  in  like  condition,  and  had  the  same  contact  sur- 
face, the  same  strain  ;  consequently  it  is  easy  to  determine  the 
relative  value  of  each  for  driving  machinery,  also  that  of  pulleys. 


124 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 


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AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  125 


DEDUCTIONS  AND    CONCLUSIONS    DRAWN    FROM 
FOREGOING  -TABLE. 

Pulleys  covered  with  leather,  with  grain  side  of  baud  to  pulley, 
will  sustain  50  per  cent,  more  resistance  than  without  the  pulley 
being  covered.  The  per  cent,  of  resistance  of  the  bands  on  the 
different  pulleys  is  nearly  as  follows,  and  this  per  cent,  will  indi- 
cate the  relative  working  value  of  each  pulley  respectively  : 

Iron  Pulley  covered  with  Leather,  36  per  cent. 
"       Polished,-        -        -    24 
"      Rough  Turned,     -        15        " 

Wood,  Polished  Mahogany,          -    25        " 

100 

Full  six  per  cent,  should  be  added  to  the  Polished  Iron  Pulley, 
to  make  allowances  for  the  difference  between  commencing  to  slip 
and  its  sliding ;  thus  making  polished  pulley  thirty  per  cent,  or 
next  in  value  to  leather. 

The  relative  or  comparative  working  per  cent,  of  the  different 
bands,  as  indicated  by  the  Table,  is  nearly  as  follows  : 

Leather,  grain  or  smooth  side  to  Pulley,  31  per  cent. 
Leather,  flesh  side  to  Pulley,  -     23 

Rubber,  21 

(iutta  Perch  a,  -  -     14         " 

Canvas,        -          ....          11         " 


100 

Thus  Leather  Belts,  grain  side  to  pulley,  will  drive  34  per 
cent,  more  than  flesh  side  to  pulley, — 48  per  cent,  more  than 
Rubber,-  -121  per  cent,  more  than  Gutta  Perch  a, — 180  per  cent, 
more  than  Canvas;  consequently  the  very. best  arrangement  for 
Belting,  is  to  use  it  with  grain  side  to  drum  or  pulley,  and  have 
the  pulley  covered  with  leather.  This  is  best  in  all  cases.  The 
next  best  pulley  is  polished  iron,  especially  for  quick  motions. 
Polished  wood  next,  and  rough  iron  last  in  value. 

Leather,  used  with  grain  side  to  pulley  will  not  only  do  more 
work,  but  last  longer  than  if  used  with  flesh  to  same.  The  fibre 
of  the  grain  side,  is  more  compact  and  fixed  than  that  of  the 
flesh,  and  more  of  its  surface  is  constantly  brought  in  contact  or 
impinges  on  the  particles  of  the  pulley.  The  two  surfaces,  that 


126  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

of  the  band  and  that  of  the  pulley,  should  be  make  as  smooth  as 
possible — the  more  so  the  greater  the  contact  surface  and  the 
more  the  particles  of  each  impinge  on  the  other.  The  smoother 
the  two  surfaces,  the  less  air  will  pass  under  the  band  and  be- 
tween it  and  the  pulley — the  air  preventing  the  contact  of  band 
with  pulley — the  greater  this  contact  the  more  machinery  will 
the  band  drive.  The  more  uneven  the  surface  of  band  and  pulley, 
the  more  strain  will  be  necessary  to  prevent  bands  from  slipping. 
What  is  lost  by  want  of  contact,  must  be  made  up  by  extra  strain 
on  the  band,  in  order  to  make  it  drive  the  machinery  required — 
oftentimes,  if  the  band  is  laced,  causing  the  lacings  to  break,  the 
holes  to  tear  out,  or  fastenings  of  whatever  kind  to  give  way. 
This  want  of  contact  is  noticeable  on  most  of  new  bauds  used 
with  flesh  side  to  pulley,  antl  is  distinctly  marked  by  dark  im- 
pressions on  the  band  where  it  comes  in  contact  with  the  pulley. 
Oftentimes  not  half  of  the  surface  will  be  found  to  have  come  in 
contact,  and  until  it  is  worn  smooth,  or  filled  in  with  other  sub- 
stances, the  full  extent  of  the  power  of  the  band  is  not  obtained. 
Bauds  used  with  grain  side  to  the  pulley  will  never  crack,  as 
the  strain  in  passing  it  is  thrown  on  the  flesh  side,  which  is  not 
liable  to  crack  or  break,  the  grain  not  being  strained  any  more 
than  any  other  portions  of  the  band.  When  a  piece  of  leather  is 
bent  or  doubled,  the  fibre  on  the  outer  surface  of  the  curve 
formed  is  stretched  or  extended,  while  that  of  the  inner  surface  is 
crowded  together,  there  being  a  point  between  the  two  extremes 
where  it  remains  unchanged  in  its  surface,  this  niav  be  termed 
the  fulcrum  point.  The  thicker  the  band,  the  further  is  this 
point  from  the  pulley,  consequently  any  unevenness  in  the  band 
serves  as  a  wedge  to  increase  its  tension  as  it  passes  on  to  the 
pulley,  and  to  decrease  as  it  passes  off,  causing,  when  the  velocity 
js  great,  sudden  jerks  upon  the  band,  and  an  irregularity  of  mo- 
tion— this  irregularity  is  easily  perceived  where  machinery  revol- 
ves with  great  velocity. 

Therefore,  Bands  for  Saws  and  Bloiuers,  or  where  quick 
motion  is  wanted,  should  be  made  as  level  or  even  as  possible, 
and  endless  if  practicable.  In  slow  motion,  any  uneveness  of  the 
band  would  not  be  noticed,  as  the  extra  strain  would  be  so  grad- 
ual as  not  to  cause  any  irregularity  of  motion. 

Where  thick  joints  are  ivanted,  they  should  be  made  as  short  as 
practicable,  for  the  reason,  that  if  short,  there  will  be  less  strain 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  127 

upon  the  band  as  it  passes  the  pulley  ;  there  being  the  same  dif- 
ference as  between  the  introduction  of  a  long  and  short  Avedge. 

When  bands  are  run  horizontally,  the  driving  half  should  be 
the  lower  half  when  practicable,  then  as  it  stretches,  the  loose 
or  upper  half  will  cover  more  and  more  of  the  pulley  surface.  If 
run  contrariwise,  then,  as  the  band  stretches,  it  will  fall  from  the 
pulleys,  having  less  of  contact  surface. 

Long  horizontal  band's  are  so  far  desirable,  as  that  their  weight 
increases  their  contact  with  the  pulley.  Double  bands  have  this 
advantage  to  a  great  extent. 

Bands  connecting  pulleys  perpendicular  to  each  other  should  be 
kept  tightly  strained,  and  should  be  of  well  stretched  leather,  as 
their  weight  tends  to  decrease  their  close  contact  with  the  lower 
pulley. 

Bands  of  coarse,  loose  leather  will  do  better  service  in  dry,  warm 
places,  than  in  wet  or  moist.  For  use  in  these  last  named  places, 
bands  should  be  made  of  the  finest  and  firmest  leather. 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  CALCULATING  THE  WIDTH  OF  BELTS  RE- 
QUIRED FOR  TRANSMITTING  DIFFERENT  NUMBERS  OF  HORSE 
POWER. 

The  following  calculations  were  predicated  on  the  basis  of 
allowing  each  square  inch  of  belting  in  contact  with  the  drum  or 
pulley,  to  raise  half  a  pound  one  foot  high  in  one  minute,  and  the 
raising  of  36,000  pounds  same  height  in  same  time  as  a  horse 
power. 

By  increasing  the  tension  of  the  belt  much  more  than  a  half 
may  be  allowed  to  the  square  inch. 

Multiply  36,000  by  the  number  of  horse  power  ;  divide  the 
amount  by  the  number  of  feet  the  belt  is  to  run  per  minute; 
divide  the  quotient  by  the  number  of  feet  or  parts  of  a  foot  in 
length  of  belt  contact  with  smaller  drum  or  pulley  ;  divide  this 
last  quotient  by  six,  and  the  result  is  the  required  width  of  belt 
in  inches. 

Example :  Required  the  width  of  belt,  the  velocity  of  which  is 


128  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

1,600  feet  per  minute,  to  transmit  twenty  horse-power,  the  diam- 
eter of  smaller  drum  being  four  feet :  36,000  x  20=720,000  -j-1,- 
600=450. 

Diameter  of  smaller  drum  being  four  feet,  the  circumference 
over  twelve  feet,  we  will  suppose  the  other  drum  so  near  and  so 
large  as  to  leave  but  five  feet  of  the  smaller  drum's  circumference 
in  contact  with  belt — the  450-7-5=90— 6=1  o  inches,  the  re- 
quired width  of  belt. 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  CALCULATING  THE  NUMBER  OF  HORSE- 
POWER WHICH  A  BELT  WILL  TRANSMIT,  ITS  VELOCITY  AND 
THE  NUMBER  OF  SQUARE  INCHES  IN  CONTACT  WITH  THE 
PULLEY  BEING  KNOWN. 

Divide  the  number  of  square  inches  of  belt  in  contact  with  the 
pulley  by  two ;  multiply  this  quotient  by  the  velocity  of  the  belt 
in  feet  per  minute,  and  this  amount  divided  by  36,000.  and  the 
quotient  is  the  number  of  horse-power. 

Example:  A  twenty-inch  belt  is  being  moved  with  a  velocity 
of  2,000  feet  per  minute,  with  six  feet  of  its  length  in  contact 
with  the  circumference  of  a  four  feet  drum — desired  its  horse- 
power :  20x72=1,440  —  2=  720x2,000  =  1,440,000-^-  36,000=40 
horse  power. 

TO  FIND  THE  LENGTH  OF  A  DRIVING  BELT. 

Suppose  the  distance  from  the  centre  of  the  driving-shaft  to 
the  centre  of  the  pulley-axle,  of  any  machine  to  be  driven,  is  10 
feet,  the  diameter  of  the  pulley  on  the  driving-shaft  is  16  inches, 
and  the  diameter  of  driven  pulley  is  12  inches,  what  length  of 
belt  will  be  required  ? 

K  u  L  E  . 

Double  the  distance,  which  is  here  10,  and  add  the  diameter  of 
the  two  pulleys  together,  and  multiply  the  product  by  3,  or  more 
correctly  by  3£ ;  this  product  divide  by  2,  and  added  to  the 
double  of  the  distance  between  the  shafts,  will  be  the  length  of 
belt  required. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTUEEE.  129 


EXAMPLE. 
Ft,    In.  Feet. 

1     4  driving  pulley.         10  from  centre  to  centre  of  shafts. 
1     0  driven      "  2 

24  20  double. 

3  Add  3£ 


2)7     0  23|  length  of  belt. 

3^  feet  around  the  pulleys. 


TO  FIND  THE  LENGTH  OF  A  CKOSS-BELT  FOR  THE 
SAME  PLACE. 


Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  with  the  other,  with  this  differ- 
ence :  add  the  diameters  of  the  two  pulleys  together,  and  multi- 
ply the  product  by  3,  and  that  product  again  by  2  ;  divide  the 
sum  of  these  multiplications  by  3  :  this  last  product,  added  to  20, 
will  give  the  required  length  of  the  cross-belt. 

EXAMPLE. 

Ft.      In.  Feet. 

14  10 

1  2 

24  20 

3  48 


70  24  8 

2 

3)14  0 

4  8 
24  feet  8  inches,  length  of  cross-belt. 


THE  TEARING  OFT  OF  LACE  HOLES. 

THE  more  thoroughly  stretched  the  band,  the  more  liable  will 
it  be  to  be  complained  of  in  this  respect ;  not  that  stretching 
17 


130  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

properly  done  (i.  e.  wet  stretching)  injures  the  fibre  of  the  band, 
but  that  too  much  allowance  is  made  for  stretch,  in  cutting  off  the 
proper  length,  or  in  fact  the  band  is  made  too  short.  If  it  is  then 
put  upon  the  pulleys  it  must  be  strained  to  its  utmost  tension,  in 
order  to  make  the  ends  come  together;  when  laced,  the  strain 
upon  it  will  be  of  itself  almost  sufficient  to  break  out  the  lace- 
holes.  When  the  machine  is  set  in  motion,  the  extra  strain  is 
more  than  the  band  will  bear,  and  it  gives  way  in  its  weakest 
place,  the  lacing  breaks  or  the  holes  tear  out.  Then,  in  all  prob- 
ability, the  broken  ends  will  be  cut  off  on  a  line  with  the  holes, 
making  the  band  still  shorter,  new  holes  punched,  and  the  band 
strained  upon  the  pulleys,  to  break  away  again,  with  like  result. 
The  leather  is  then  pronounced  worthless.  A  band  properly 
stretched  will  readily  yield  as  it  is  tightened,  and  consequently 
the  lacing  would  not  be  liable  to  break  or  tear  out. 


THE  PUTTING  ON  OF  BELTS. 

CARE  should  be  taken  that  the  ends  of  bands,  if  to  "  be  butted" 
together,  are  cut  square  across,  else  a  crook  may  be  made  in  the 
band,  and  the  belt-maker  be  blamed  for  it.  The  shafting  of  the 
pulleys  to  be  connected  should  be  parallel  to  each  other,  and  the 
centre  of  each  pulley  on  a  line  at  right  angles  to  the  shafting,  or 
the  bands  will  not  run  well  on  the  pulleys.  If  the  belt  is  made 
endless  by  a  lap-joint,  the  edges  of  such  joint  should  be  on  a  right 
line  with  each  edge  of  the  band. 


WIDTH  OP  BELTING  AND  SIZE  OF  PULLEYS. 

THERE  seems  to  be  a  groAving  disposition  among  Machinists, 
Millwrights,  and  others,  to  make  their  pulleys  and  drums  of  such 
size  and  width  as  will  require  as  narrow  and  short  a  band  as  pos- 
sible, in  order  to  save  expense.  This  false  economy  seldom  de- 
creases the  first  cost  of  machinery,  and  only  saves  in  first  cost  of 
belting.  This  small  amount  saved  is  soon  lost  many  times  over 
by  stoppage  of  machinery,  slipping  of  bands,  and  consequent  loss 
of  time^  extra  strain  on  the  shafting,  and  an  increased  amount  of 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  131 

friction,  requiring  additional  driving  power,  and  by  causing  the 
more  rapid  wear  of  belts. 

In  almost  every  case  where  pulleys  or  drums  are  not  perpen- 
dicular to  each  other,  the  "  following  half  of  band"  should  be  so 
loose  as  that  its  centre  should  fall  some  inches  below  a  right  line 
drawn  from  the  points  where  this  half  of  band  comes  in  contact 
with  either  pulley.  Whatever  strain  is  thrown  on  the  loose  or 
following  half  of  bands,  in  order  to  make  them  do  the  required 
amount  of  work,  is  just  so  much  unnecessarily  added  to  the  fric- 
tion of  the  shafting  or  machinery  ;  and  the  wear  is  the  same,  and 
a  loss  of  power  to  the  amount  required  to  overcome  this  friction. 
Were  pulleys  made  of  a  proper  size  and  width,  and  then  covered 
with  leather,  the  belts  run  with  grain  side  to  the  pulley,  thou- 
sands of  tons  of  coal  might  be  saved  annually,  and  an  immense 
amount  of  water-power. 


COVERING  OF  PULLEYS  AND  DRUMS  WITH 
LEATHER, 

THE  importance  of  this  is  realized  but  by  few  persons  who 
have  charge  of  or  use  machinery.  Fifty  per  cent,  more  work  can 
be  done  on  machines  without  belts  slipping,  if  pulleys  are  covered 
with  leather.  The  closer  the  band  hugs  to  the^pulley,  the  less 
tightly  will  it  need  to  be  strained,  the  longer  time  will  the  band 
last,  the  less  friction  of  machinery,  and  consequently  the  less 
power  required  to  drive  it.  The  covering  of  the  pulleys  with 
leather,  in  many  establishments  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of 
power,  would  produce  such  an  improvement  as  to  astonish  those 
not  acquainted  with  its  value.  Large  pulleys  and  drums  may  b.e 
covered  by  narrow  strips  of  leather,  or  by  being  wound  spirally — 
narrow  pulleys  should  have  leather  the  same  width  as  the  pulley 
surface. 


OILING  AND  GREASING  OF  BELTS. 

CARE  should  be  taken  that  belts  are  kept  soft  and  pliable.     The 
question  is  often  asked,  "What  is  best  for  this  purpose ?"    We 


132  AMERICAN  WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER, 


advise,  when  the  belt  is  pliable,  and  only  dry  and  husky,  the 
application  of  blood-warm  tallow ;  this  applied  and  dried  in  by 
heat  of  the  fire  or  sun,  will  tend  to  keep  the  leather  in  good  work- 
ing condition;  the  oil  of  the  tallow  passes  into  the  fibre  of  the 
leather,  serving  to  soften  it,  and  the  stearine  is  left  on  the  outside 
to  fill  the  pores  and  leave  a  smooth  surface,  The  addition  of  resin 
to  the  tallow  for  belts  used  in  wet  or  damp  places,  will  be  of  ser- 
vice, and  help  preserve  their  strength.  Belts  which  have  become 
hard  and  dry,  should  have  an  application  of  neat's  foot  or  liver 
oil  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  resin;  this  prevents  the  oil 
from  injuring  the  belt  and  helps  to  preserve  it.  There  should 
not  be  so  much  resin  as  to  leave  the  belt  sticky. 

Binders  should  never  be  used,  as  it  takes  power  to  drive  them, 
besides  they  will  injure  any  kind  of  belt  when  used. 


mmm  uihg  f  ubfor,  ifuita  Jjqclra  &  o 

ARE  THE  DEAREST  ARTICLES  TO  USE  FOR  BAPS. 


UNDER  the  same  circumstances  and  on  the  same  machines, 
these  bands  will  not  last  or  Avear  one-fourth  as  long  as  leather. 
AVhen  once  they  begin  to  give  out  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  re- 
pair them. 

Wide  bands  cannot  be  used  for,  or  cut  up  into  narrower  ones, 
as  leather  can  be. 

Leather  belts  may  be  used  over  and  over  again,  and  when  of 
no  further  value  for  belts,  can  be  sold  for  other  purposes. 

A  rubber  band,  costing  hundreds  of  dollars,  may  be  spoiled  in 
a  few  moments,  by  the  lacing  giving  out  and  the  band  being  run 
off  into  the  gearing,  or  by  being  caught  in  any  manner  so  as  to 
damage  the  edge ;  or  by  stoppage  of  either  the  driving  or  driven 
pulley.  A  few  moments  of  quick  motion  or  friction,  will  roll  off 
the  gum  from  the  canvas  in  such  quantities  as  to  spoil  the  band. 
Leather  belts  may  be  torn  or  damaged,  yet  are  easily  repaired. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER.  133 

Should  a  rubber  or  gum  belt  begin  to  tear  by  being  caught  in 
the  machinery,  if  the  rent  strikes  the  seam  it  is  most  certain  to 
follow  it,  even  the  entire  length,  if  the  machinery  is  not  stopped. 
It  would  be  impossible  to  tear  leather  in  a  like  manner. 

Oil  in  contact  with  rubber  belting,  will  soften  the  gum  so  as  to 
be  like  dough.  Put  a  piece  into  oil  for  a  day  or  so,  and  then  ex- 
amine it,  and  test  the  truth  of  this  statement.  Oil  or  grease  pro- 
duces an  acid  which  will  destroy  or  rot  the  vegetable  fibre  of  the 
canvas  in  a  short  time. 

Such  a  degree  of  heat  as  would  not  burn  leather,  if  applied  to 
rubber  or  gutta  percha  bands,  will  so  act  upon  the  small  particles 
or  quantity  of  gum  which  is  contained  in  the  outside  coating,  as 
to  cause  it  to  roll  off  easily  when  slight  friction  is  applied ;  in  fact, 
the  whole  mass  loses  its  adhesiveness  and  becomes  disintegrated. 

The  seams  of  rubber  and  gutta  percha  are  covered  by  a  strip 
of  rubber,  which  will  not  stand  as  much  heat  as  leather,  and  next 
to  no  amount  of  friction.  When  this  seam  is  destroyed,  the  band 
is  destroyed,  or  at  least  is  liable  to  part,  thus  rendering  the  band 
of  no  more  use  than  if  the  whole  were  coated  with  like  material. 

Eubber,  gutta  percha,  and  canvas  belts  will  continue  to  stretch 
as  long  as  in  use,  rendering  it  necessary  to  shorten  them  contin- 
ually. 

During  freezing  weather,  if  moisture  or  water  finds  its  way  into 
the  seams,  or  between  the  different  layers  of  canvas  composing 
these  bauds,  and  becomes  frozen,  the  layers  are  torn  apart,  and  the 
band  is  spoiled;  or  if  a  pulley  becomes  frosty,  the  parts  of  band 
in  contact  with  it  will  be  torn  off  from  the  canvas  and  left  on  the 
pulley. 

Gum  belts  will  not  answer  for  "cross"  or  '•  half-cross  belts," for 
"  shifting  belts,"  "  cone  pulleys,"  or  for  any  places  where  belts  are 
liable  to  slip,  as  friction  destroys  them. 

In  fact,  buying  a  rubber,  gutta  percha,  or  canvas  belt  is  very 
much  like  buying  a  sickly  horse  at  33£  per  cent,  less  than  a  good 
healthy  one  would  cost.  If  such  a  horse  is  well  groomed,  used 
carefully,  left  in  the  stable  when  sick,  when  the  weather  is  hot, 
when  cold,  and  when  stormy,  he  may  live  six  months;  with  ex- 
treme care  and  good  luck,  one  may  be  able  to  say,  that  he  owns 
a  horse  for  twelve  or  eighteen  months.  Pay  33£  per  cent,  more 
and  buy  a  good  healthy  one,  use  him  well  and  kindly,  he  is  al- 


134  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURER. 

ways  aj;  your  service,  and  can  be  depended  upon.  After  being  in 
nse  twelve  or  fifteen  years,  he  is  still  good,  and  if  sold,  will  bring 
33^  per  cent,  of  his  cost.  "  A  word  to  the  wise  is  sufficient/'  A 
well-made  leather  band,  if  properly  looked  after — the  width  and 
pulley  surface  proportioned  to  the  amount  of  work  to  be  done, 
will  last  12,  15,  or  20  years,  and  yet  be  of  value  to  work  over  into 
narrower  belts. 


The  majority  of  those  who  buy  Belting,  are  not  good  judges  of 
leather.  This  fact  is  taken  advantage  of  by  many,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  belts  are  manufactured  and  sold,  that  are  not  what 
they  are  represented  to  be.  Some  of  them  are  made  from  purely 
hemlock-tanned  leather,  which  is  colored  and  made  to  resemble 
oak.  by  the  use  of  alum  and  quercitron  bark.  Others  are  made 
from  dry  hide  leather,  and  still  others  from  sole  leather,  &c.  The 
leather  is  often  cut  full  length  of  the  side,  without  being 
stretched,  or  if  not,  it  is  stretched  in  the  side  and  tlien  cut;  either 
way  making  a  poor  article  of  belting.  Those  who  purchase  of 
MESSRS.  FAIRBROTHER  &  FALES,  may  rest  assured  that  there  will 
be  no  misrepresentation ;  that  they  will  obtain  a  good  article  of 
belting,  which  we  warrant  to  be  well  stretched,  to  run  truly  on 
the  pulleys,  and  to  do  good  service. 


MANUFACTURERS  WISHING  ANY  KIND  OF  MACHINERY  OR  SUP- 
PLIES, ARE   RESPECTFULLY   REQUESTED   TO   QUOTE  THE   PRICES  OF 

THE  DEALERS,  WHOSE  CARDS  APPEAR  IN  THE  FOLLOWING  PAGES, 
AS  THEY  REPRESENT  SOME  OF  THE  BEST  AND  MOST  RELIABLE  MAN- 
UFACTURERS OF,  AND  DEALERS  IN  THE  VARIOUS  .ARTICLFS  OF 
MACHINERY  AND  SUPPLIES,  IN  THE  COUNTRY. 


AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER.  135 


INDEX 


PAKT  FIRST.— Diagrams,  6 

Harness  Chain,  7 

Drafting  Patterns,  8 

Explanations  Diagrams,  -  12 

Herringbone  Twills,  Twists,  &c.,  16 

Questions  and  Answers,  -  -  17 

Stock  Calculations,  24 

Spooling  and  Dressing,  -  29 

Reeding,  32 

Laying  out  Stock,  -  -  34 

Diagrams,  36 

Explanations  Cloth  Samples.  -  37 

Miscellaneous  Designs,  -  42 

PART  SECOND.— Wool  Room,  -  59 

Scouring  Wool,  63 

Dye  House,  -  67 

Carding  Room,  70 

Picker  Room,  -  71 

Oiling  Wool,  73 

Adulterated  Oil,  -  75 

Spinning  Room,  76 

Yarn  Calculations,  -  81 

Table  of  weights  of  Cloths,  85 

Spooling,  -  85 


136  AMERICAN   WOOLEN   MANUFACTURER. 

Dressing,                                                               -  85 

Weaving  Room,  -    88 

Finishing  Room,  1)0 

Fulling  and  Flocking,  -    90 

Applying  Soaps,  91 

Scouring  or  Washing,  -    93 

Water  and  its  effects,    -  1)8 

Hardness  of  Water,  -    99 

Soap  Solutions,  100 

Neutralizing  Hard  Water,    -  100 
Gigging,                                                              -         101 

Shearing,  Pressing,  Brushing,  «fcc.,  -  102 

Estimates,  103 

Estimate  Table,  10!) 
Rules  and  Remarks  on  Wheels, 

Gears,  Pulleys,  Belting  &c  ,  119 

Remarks  on  Belting,  -  1 23 

Advertisements,  1 37 


MAM   KA(  Tl'ltKKS    OF 


Dye  Stuffs,  Dy  e  Woods  &  Acids 

47  Fulton  Sfi-eei,   i\ew  Yoivk. 


Office,    Hudson    River   Chemical  Works.  and  Dye 
Wood  Mills, 

BULLS    FERRY.    N.   J. 


mporters  of  fflye  Stuffs  and  fitaieals, 

MANIKACTIUKKS    OK 

DYE  WOODS,  EXTRACT  OF  INDIGO,  &C. 

SOI.K    AOENTS    IX    THE    I  XITEI)    STATES    KOll 

BROOKE.   STMLJSON'&  SPILLER.   LONDON. 


AT&AB  41IH1II 

209  &  211  STATE  STREET,  HARTFORD,  CONN. 

L    H.  FULTON. 


MANUFACTIKEK    OF 


OF  EVERY  DESCRTPTIOX, 

For  Goffon,  Linen,  Worafei  &  Waolcn  Mannfacforics. 

forth  lain  Street,  Wosnsocket,  B,  I. 


WOEOESTER  MASS. 


GEORGE 


PROPRIETOR 


II  x-^  w       \^  -x\^  ^*s  _i  /_LJ  _^     _j 
PROPRIETOR  AND  MANUFACTURER 


OF    THE 


With  recent  and  Important   Improvements,  rendering 

"  it  better  adapted  than  ever  for  fine  yarn,  high 

speed  and  extent  of  figure. 


The  variety  of  Looms  made  at  these  Works  embrace  the  Broad  Cromptou  for  6-4, 
and  the  Narrow  Loom  for  8-4  goods,  with  a  twenty-four  harness  capacity,  operating 
three  or  four  shuttle-box  compartments  at  each  side  of  the  lathe  ;  specially  adapted 
to  all  descriptions  of  cotton  and  woolen  goods,  including  Fancy  Cassimeres,  Balmo- 
rals, Shawls,  &c.  Cam  Looms,  both  broad  and  narrow,  of  any  desired  width,  and 
with  a  variety  of  harness  movement,  arranged  with  one  or  a  plurality  of- shuttles  for 
Flannels,  Domets,  Broadcloths,  &c.  Cotton  and  Worsted  Fancy  Looms,  with  great 
capacity  for  Harness  and  Shuttles,  operating  at  the  highest  speed. 


Jgp"  MANUFACTURERS  AHE  CAUTIONED  against  purchasing  Looms  of  other  makers 
INFRINGING  on  the  many  Patents  I  hold  for  Improvements  in  Fancy  Looms,  and 
are  advised  to  take  WRITTEN  GUARANTEES,  so  that  in  case  of  suit,  and  recovery  of 
damages,  the  loss  may  be  sustained  by  the  maker. 


JAMES  I,  HAKWAY  &  CO., 


of  all    inta  ni 


f  f 

*"^XT'  (Svr< 


fl 


» 


Byewood  Extracts  and  Liquors, 


I  hcu  Import  ani>  i)c;i(  in  a(l 


AND 


1 0 .  A  L  8 


THK  I'KonrcT  OK  OTIIKIS  Cot  NTKIKS 


ivrro  w  L  E  s 


TTTTC   ONLY 


Ever  made  that  was 

CHEAP,    COMPACT,    AND 

UNYIELDING. 


Extreme  height,  screw  raised, 
11  ft.  2  in. 

Extreme  height,  screw  lower'd 
9  ft.  1  in. 

Length  of  Rods  between  the 
Trusses,  7  ft.  6. 

Length  of  Follower  between 
posts,  2  ft.  10  in. 

Width  of  Follower,  1  ft.  4  in. 

Between  Base  and  Follower, 
Screwr  raised  0  feet. 

Between    Base  and  Follower. 
Screw  lowered,  3  ft.  0  in. 

Whole  length  of  Screw,  4  feet. 
Thread  on  Screw,  3  feet. 


PRICES,  34  inch,  $225.     42  inch,  $250.     46  inch,  $275. 

OTHER  SIZES  MADE  TO  ORDER. 

MANVKAtTt:UED   J5Y 

L.    J.    KNOWLES  &   BHPTHEI^, 
At.  their  Loom  Works,     -        -     Worcester.,  Mass. 


KNOWLES'  PATENT  COMBINED  HAND  AND  POWER  PRESS, 


Can  be  run 
with  belt  or 
hand  power, 
and  at  a  price 
within  the 
reach  of  all. 

PRICES. 
34  inch,       $325 
42  inch,         :350 
40  inch,         375 

Other  sizes 
made  to  order. 


Extreme  height  Screw  raised. 
11  ft.  2  in. 

Extreme  height,  Screw  lowered, 
9  ft.  1  in. 

Length  of  Rods  between  Trusses. 
7  ft.  6  in. 

Length  of  Follower  between  posts. 
2  ft.  10  in. 

Width  of  Follower,  1  ft,  4  in. 

Between  Base  and  Follower,  screw 
raised,  (i  feet. 

Between  Base  and  Follower,  screw 
lowered.  3  ft.  fi  in. 

Whole  length  of  Screw.  4  feet. 

Thread  on  Screw,  3  feet. 

(Speed  of  Worm  Shaft,  100  to  125.1 

We  have  now  manufactured 
he  Hand  Ratchet  Press  for  many 
years,  and  it  has 
proved  itself 
adapted  to  the 
wants  of  manu- 
facturers to  a 
certain  extent, 
but  we  have  for 
a  long  time  felt 
the  increasing 
want  of  a  press 
which  would 
<ave  the  time 
of  'the  number 

of  men  necessary  to  work  the  hand  press,  and  which  should  be  suitable  for  those  mills  not  requiring 
a  Hydraulic  Press.  We  now  oft'er  to  our  patrons,  as  the  result  of  our  experiments  in  this  direc- 
tion, 

OUR  PATENT  COMBINED  HAND  AND  POWER  SCREW  PRESS, 

\Vliich  combines  all  those  qualities  \\  h  i<  h  are  necessary  to  make 


L.   J.    KXOWLKN 


V.    U,    J 


I nowles'  Patent  Eight  Harness  6am  Loom. 


L.  J.  KNOWLES  &  BROTHER, 


\I  AMK.U  TfUKKS     OF 


WITH  OK  WITHOUT  DROP  BOXKS. 


Corner  o[  Main  «nib  Sout)ilbric)^e  Streets. 
KNOWLES,  F.  B.  KNOWLES, 


L  J.  MOWLES  &  BROTHER, 


MAXrFACTl  KKKS  OF 
J.     K    N    O    W    I-    E    S  ' 


ADAPTED  FOR  WEAVINli  EVEKY  KIND  OF  NARROW  FABRIC,  SUCH  AS 


Stis/pendex^  wit  h 
Woven  15  lit  toil 
and 


JSf  The  Inventor  has  devoted  years  of  study  and  experience  to  improvements  in 
Machinery  for  the  manufacture  of  the  above  named  and  many  other  kinds  of  narrow 
fabric,  never  before  produced  in  this  country.  And  in  addition-,  the  Company  build 
improved  machines  for  preparing  and  finishing  the  goods,  consisting  of 

Spoolers,   "Warpers,    Quillers,   Dressing, 
Calendering,  Winding,  Folding, 

Aid  various  Machines  used  in  fhe  Manufacture  of  Narrow  Ware  Goods, 

All  of  which  are  secured  by  Letters  Patent; 


n    Pfl 

ID., 


PHILADELPHIA. 


_>> 

AND    ALL    OTHER    MACHINERY 

TJSED  IN  COTTON  OR  WOOLEN  FACTORIES. 


Patentees  and  Sole  Manufacturers  of  their  improved 

Patent  Machine  ¥ire  Heddles, 

FOR  WOOLEN,  COTTON  AND  SILK, 

Warranted  not  to  Catch  the  Warp  Thread  in  the  Eye,    Patented 
July  14,  1868,  and  April  19,  1870, 

Hi  &  48* 

ISTEW    YORK. 


WHOLESALE   DEALERS    TX 


AMU 
AM 

MARCELLTTS,  NEW  YORK. 

Orders  Solicited  and  Promptly  attended  to. 

THUS.  PHILLIPS.  J-  B.   VAN  VKANKEN. 


&  GUILD, 


15  MECHANIC  ST.,  WORCESTER,  MASS. 


MANUFACTURERS    OF 


IMPROVED  WIRE  HEDDLES, 


And  Dealers  in  every  variety  of 


MANUFACTURERS'    SUPPLIES, 


CONSISTING  IN  PART  OF 


Baskets, 

Card  Clothing. 

Heddles,  Pat.  Wire  &  Tin, 

Press  Papers, 

Belting, 

Card  Brushes, 

Lace  Leather. 

Rivets  and  Burs, 

Belt  Hooks. 

Card  Clamps, 

Picker  Leather, 

Reeds  of  all  kinds. 

Belt  Punches, 

Card  Tooth  Pullers. 

Roller  Leather. 

Reed  Hooks, 

Belt  Awls, 

Cloth  Scales, 

Roller  Cloth. 

Reed  Brushes, 

Bobbins, 
Brooms, 

Cotton  Warps, 
Kmerv, 

Loom  Cord  and  Straps, 
Loom  Dusters, 

Shuttles,  Spools, 
Sheep  Shears, 

Brushes, 

Feed  Scales, 

Lining  Metal.  Thurber's, 

Spindles, 

Baling  Hooks, 
Baling  Needles. 
Burling  Irons, 

Fulling  Mill  Needles, 
Fulling  Mill  Springs, 
Gig  Rings, 

Lining    do.     Babbitt's, 
Malleable  Oilers, 
Wilder'  s  &  Thompson's 

Spinning  Rings, 
Ring  Travellers, 
Traveller  Brushes. 

Comb  Plates, 

Harness  Frames, 

Oilers, 

Teasels, 

Oomh  Cleaners, 
Cleaner  Handles. 

"    Hooks  and  Eves, 
"    Studs  and  Wire, 

Pickers, 
Pick  Glasses. 

Tapes,  Twines, 
Temples,  Wrenches. 

Cordage, 

"    Twine, 

Packing, 

Tenter  Hooks. 

Perforated  Copper  for  Wool  Rinsers, 

And  every  article  consumed  in  Manufacturing 


COTTO1V 


Wool  and  Waste  Pickers,  Spindle  Baud  Machines,  Waste  Dustei  s,  Bobbin  Winders,  Willowers,  Spoolers, 
Chase's  Patent  Flock  Cutters,  Belt  Tighteners.  Burring  Ma 
Lathes,  Slide  Rests,  Regulators,  and  Blithe  various  kinds  of 


COTTON    AND    WOOLEN    MACHINERY, 

With  the  Latest  Improvements,  at  the  Manufacturers'  Lowest  Cash  Prices. 

FLOCKS,    WOOL    WASTE,    AND   SECOND-HAND    MACHINERY   ON    COMMISSION, 

(CONSIGNMENTS  SOLICITED.) 


LEFFEL'S  DOUBLE  TURBINE  WATER  WHEEL, 


THE   BEST  IN   USE. 


COUTT  &   BATTIE. 

Successors  to  HARVY  HOAG,  Dealers  in 

FOREIGN  AND   DOMESTIC  WOOL, 


No.  65  PINE    STREET, 


JOSEPH    COUTT, 
THAS.   M.  BATTIE. 


Consignments  Solicited.    Liberal  Advances  made. 


BAUENDAHL  &  CO, 


86  &  88  WORTH  STREET, 


WALTER  BAUENDAHL,  i 

L.   J.   STIASTNY.  P    0. 

HENRY    BAUENDAHL.     1 


BOX  961. 


D.  H.  SPARHAWK-&  CO. 


FOR   THE    PURCHASE    AXD    SALE    OF,    ALSO    DEALERS    IX 


Wool  and  Cotton  Waste,  Shoddy,  Flocks,  &c.  &c. 
Nos.  87  Milk  &  88  Congress  Sts. 


D.    H.    8PAK1IAWK,   1 

H.   T.    WINO, 

II.    \V.  STONK.  ) 


Sole  Agents  for  F.  B.  E»y's  Scoured  Wools,  Shoddy,  Ac.       Also,  Agents  for  Waterhouse  Bros.'  Flocks. 


HAMILTON   FLOCK  CO. 


MANUFACTURERS  AND    DEALERS   IN 


WATBR  SYRHHf,  WORCE3YER,  MASS. 


D.  R.  WHITNEY  &  CO 


IMPORTERS   OF 


i 
MANUFACTURERS    OF 


MO     ILK    flpw,     OSTON,     ASS, 

D.  R.  WHITNEY.  CHARLES  W.  SLADE. 


All  Orders  Filled  Promptly  and  at  the  Very  Lowest  Prices, 

BOSTON  DYEWOOD&  CHEMICAL  CO. 


MANUFACTURERS    OF 


DYE  WOOD  LIQUORS  AND  EXTRACTS. 

AND    IMPORTERS   AND    DEALERS   IN 

-Drugs,  Eye  Stuffs-  and  Chemicals, 

116  Milk,  corner  Batterymarch  Sjpet, 

EDW.  F.  PORTER,  Pres't,      TRncTnM      GAYTON  P.  mRING,  )  n.  w 
JOS.  C.  STEVENS,  Treas.       f>0£TON.     CHAS.  E.  THALER,       JM 


IMPORTERS   AND   WHOLESALE   DEALERS   TN 


fl  VF 

1JIL 


INDIGO,    GUMS,    <5cC_, 


POTATO  STARCH,  REO  and  WHITE  LARD  and  OLIVE  OILS, 


AND    ALL    ARTICLES   CONSUMED   TN 


DTEI1G,  BLIiCeild  AID  fillSIIM 


AI>SO    MAX  I '  K  ACT  I :  UK  KS    OK 


Dyeioofls,  DJBI  ooi  Liprs,  Eitracts,  &c,, 

6,  7  and  8  Exchange  Place, 

PROVIDENCE,  R  I. 


THE  GILBERT  LOOM  CO 


., 


BL1LDEKS    OK 


Using   two   to   twenty-four   Harnesses,   with   three   or 
four  Shuttle  Box  Compartments. 

This  Loom  has  the  Harness  and  Chain  Motion  at  the  top  and  one  end,  with 
Horizontal  Working  Jacks,  and  is  not  liable  to  miss  picks. 


TO  Side  Levers,  using  two  to  six  Harnesses,  with  or  without  Drop  Sous, 

CAM  LOOIS,  GUMY  BAG,  WORSTED 
AID  GIIGHAI  LOOIS. 

The  above  are  in  widths  from  3  quarters  to  15  quarters. 


sou-:  nriU)Ei;s  FOR  THK 


DAVIS  PATENT  TAPESTHT  LOOM, 

ALSO  PRINTING  DRUMS  AND  SETTING  MACHINERY. 

We   give   especial   attention   to   the   building   of  Looms   for 
any   class   of  work,   and 


MARBLE'S   IMPROVED   PERPETUAL 

SHEARIW 


CURTIS 


WORCESTER,    MASS., 
MANUFACTURERS  OF  CLOTH  FINISHING  MACHINERY, 


FOR  ALL  KINDS  OF  WOOLEN  AND  COTTON  GOODS, 

Cross  Cut  Shears  for  Fine  Goods ;  also  Mat  and  Brush  Shears. 

DOUBLE  AND  SINGLE  ACTING    GIGS, 

Napping  and  Brushing  Machines,  Cloth  Winders,  Shear  Grinders,  Patent 

Reversible  Flock  Cutters,  Water  Wheel  Regulators,  Rag  Cutters, 

Flock  and  Rag  Dusters,  Flock  Renovators,  Copper  Bottoms 

for  Wool  Washers,  Gig  Slats,  &c. 

Particular  Attention  Paid  to  Shear  Grinding  and  Repairing. 

WB8&VB8 


THE 

1 
A    MONTHLY   PAPER, 

Devoted  to  the  Interests  of  textile  lanifaetirers, 
Dyers  and  Bleachers. 

Subscription  $1.00  per  annum  within  the  United  States. 

"  1.25     "        "       in  Canada  and  Europe. 

Special  rates  for  clubs. 

^      j 

18  Exchange  Place,  lew  York  City. 

P.  O.  BOX,  1396. 


GOIMES     OF 


CAN  BE  OBTAINED  OF 

GEO.    C.    BURNS, 

MOHEOAN,    R.    I. 

DAW  SON    &    GUILD, 

WORCESTER,  MASS. 

TO  ANY  ADDRESS  FOR  $6.50. 


2 


7516 


Ill  II  Mill  II  Mil  I II II II I  INI 

AA    000902918    2 


CENTRAL  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 
University  of  California,  San  Diego 

DATE  DUE 


MAR  22  1975 

MAR  04  AER' 

C139 

UCSD  Lifer. 

